Ford Fuel Injection » 3G Install Tech

n 1996 Ford publicly recognized the fire hazard caused by the 2G alternator and released TSB 96214. This alternator design caused increased resistance and heat which could damage the wire harness and alternator. A small percentage of vehicles actually caught on fire! Fords 3G alternator was a giant leap in technology and quality. The 3G was internally regulated, used two internal cooling fans, sealed bearings, and had a superior battery stud. The 3G’s were more efficient, and produced more amperage at idle than any of it’s predecessors.

 

Does it fit 3.0 as well as 4.0? Alterations necessary?

 

Awesome alternator, that'd come in handy for a camper RV sorta aero. Run all your accessories and appliances no problem. Might even be able to rig up an AC/DC portable welder with one that big. That'd be a nice capability to be able to perform basic welding on your camper rig/van in the event something broke way out in the boondocks somewhere. Might get one like that, thanks for the link.

 

I certainly hope these will work on 3.0 engines as that is the ONLY engine I am willing to shop for in an Aerostar, especially now that I've decided if I EVER own another Aerostar, that it will be an '89-91 model 5-speed shorty, charcoal gray on gray, XL model, with the low-back vinyl bucket seats.

 

The only question I might add, is which one do Aerostars need?

 

So has anyone put one of these in? I wouldn't mind a little more power at idle myself...

 

Cliff, can you put a 3G in a stock 1989 3.0L? - I wouldn't mind a bit more power at idle, and esp with everything on - like a hot rainy night - lights, wipers, AC, and Stereo, etc... sitting at idle, you can see the gauge dip for sure... - Thanks

 

http://www.paperformance.com/scripts...?idproduct=192

This alternator has the same mounts and wire connectors that would fit on my 3.0, but the only thing I would want to know is how much wider is this one from my stock one? If its the same width then it will fit just fine and line up perfectly with the pulleys.

 

But, sometimes, stock wiring, at least from the batt side, is only rated to draw a certain amount of power through it - if you actually buy one, and use it as it comes directly, let me know, as it would be an easy upgrade, if all you need to do is swap them directly, but I'm more concerned about a fire, or a least melting the charge wire(s) - Pulleys as well, but I bet those are the same...

 

sorry to bump this up but when i replaced my alternator i ran a new length of the hard copper 4g wiring from the alternator to the battery. going to go back in and replace it with some hi count 4g audio power wire and up my grounds as well... which is another good point. if people are upgrading their alternators, I think it is a GOOD idea to upgrade the grounds as well. in other words, perform a big three replacement.

 

Ok, I am still waiting for the part to arrive, but I am replacing the alternator on my brothers van. The 4.0L needs the side mount version (only one choice there), and you do need the upgrade charging cable but otherwise the unit does just bolt right in, and it uses the original plugs. I bought the cable from these guys too. I will be upgrading the ground as well, especially as the ground on my brothers van is in bad shape. I will probably be doing my van later this year as well, as mine is no longer delivering enough juice at idle.

 

when you all say "ground" are we talking about metal to metal here? or a new ground wire? - i thought they were just grounded to the metal bracket, off the block, etc... so, a new ground would be what?

Thanks

 

Ok, got it installed on my bros van. The alternators install was mostly easy, with the hardest part getting the old pulley off the old alt. I used a chain wrench with a rag to protect the pulley. I then used a breaker bar to get enough torque to get the bolt off. I routed the new charging cable. I used Gold Plated battery cable clamps with a direct connection to the new alternator charging cable. Alternately, you could route the cable to the positive post on the starter relay.

I then ran a 4 gauge ground cable from the passenger side fender to the block, and then from the block to the negative terminal. I left the original grounds in place as well.

The result was amazing. The rough idle improved, the startup was faster, and the voltage at idle increased. Also the annoying whining noise was gone.

The stock ground of the starter is ok, but the electronics can do better with multiple ground points, especially when you consider the one by the starter can easily corrode due to its location.

I will be doing the same on my van, as my alternator has started whining, and my van has had a cold startup miss and a rough idle that has been eluding normal troubleshooting, beginning to think it might be in part a grounding problem/ low voltage problem. In any case I suspect my old alt is kicking the bucket and I could use the extra output it can provide.

 

hi Khan,

Thanks for the update! - please please post back if you do this again to your van, since every little bit of info helps us all :-)

did you go to a 3G for your bros van? was that already a 3G? - didn't know if all the newer 4.0L engines were - I know my 3.0L is not.

can you be a little more specific on how you attached to the fender? and I guess the block too? I know it seems easy, but just curious on that.

how much of the wiring did you have to change as far as design? or was it just replacing the older wires? - still wanted to understand 3G vs the older style, etc - yeah, I'm slow :-)

Cheers

 

Ok, here are some pictures for you all.


This is the 3G alternator. It is slightly larger than the old alternator, but bolts in exactly the same way.


This is with the large red charging cable. This cable passes through a 175 amp fuse before going to the positive terminal on the battery. I have a loop in the charge cable so that the connection is not the low point, just in case water of condesation were to ever travel down the wire.


This ground cable connects to the drivers side fender, providing one alternate ground point for the engine and any electronics.


I choose the AC compressor bolt as a midway grounding point partly because it seemed like a good point that was further away from the normal point near the starter, providing a good alternate pathway, and partly because this location is convenient.


Here are the gold plated contacts. The battery is a little older, and could stand to be cleaner, but I couldn't find anything wrong with it. The terminals themselves were a mess. These allow me to connect my new ground and charge cables directly to the battery. Felt washers will help slow or prevent corrosion.

The install went fairly well. Just some pointers. If you intend to reuse the old pulley you will need a good belt wrench and a breaker bar, and a fair amount of PB blaster. Some other tools that will help with removing and installing the alternator is a 13mm ratcheting box end wrench. Access the two lower bolts through the wheel well. The end off the red charging cable is too wide to fit into the notched plastic guide. I used some pliers to carefully break the tabs off. Make sure you have the boot on the alternator end of the cable.