Tried to get it out again today- drilling for an easy-out is a no-go (not enough room without a right angle drill) so I did the straight slot with a Dremel trick. Squirted some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a while. Came back out with a 1/4" ratchet and a screwdriver bit- still no go. I actually bent the tip of the screwdriver bit trying (couldn't get a conventional screwdriver in there very good- again not much room to work).
So, now what? I don't want to cut the bolt head off for fear of not having anything to grab with vice-grips. Although if I do, I could probably drill and easy-out what's left behind with the driveshaft out of the way. Anyone else have a bright idea?

 

It sounds like you'll have to cut a deeper & wider slot and use a more substantial screwdriver bit.

If you still have the bolt head have you considered trying one of those gator sockets or the bolt extractors mentioned in your last thread about this?

 

I should see if I can scare up one of those bolt extractor sockets, the problem is there just isn't much room to work in there- a gator socket is definitely out of the question I would think. I used the most skookum straight slot bit I had... that bolt be STUCK my friend.

 

I think I would consider just cutting the head off of the bolt in order to get the driveshaft out of the way. With that gone it should be a piece of cake to get the remainder of the bolt out.

 

Do you have any needle bearings laying around? If you look at a picture of the gator socket, maybe you could duplicate the concept with the closed end of a wrench?

The Irwin extractors appear to be shallow sockets. Would those work?

 

I have had problems with many of those bolts in my years. Biggest problem is worn sockets that don't get on the head straight which then strips the head out. I use a cut off wheel and cut the head of the bolt off. then use vise grips on the stub. Never had that method fail me once. I live in Michigan so rust is a major factor as well. But you won't have to worry about rust. Once the head is off the bolt the tension is relieved and it might even come out with your fingers.

 

How good are you with a dremel? Could you cut 2 flat sides on the rounded bolt opposite of each other that a wrench would fit on?

 

Thats a good idea with the needle bearings.I'll have to log that away in the memory banks

 

I could do it, but now that there is a slot in the middle I'd be worried about it "caving" when a bunch of pressure is applied. The thought occurred to me a minute ago- can you buy a replacement strap without buying the U-joint? If so I'll just cut the strap off so I have room to work. Either that or I'll tackle cutting the bolt head off with my Dremel.
Tim- are you able to cut the bolt head off flush with the strap, then still have enough to grab with vice grips? My thought was to round out the head/shoulder on the head and slide the strap off so I don't sell myself short on real estate to grab with the vice grips.

 

Chase,

Here's a wild suggestion. You want to replace the carrier bearing as well as grease the spline, right. Remove the front section of the drive shaft at the x-fer case. Then slip it out of the carrier bearing. Unbolt the carrier bearing and then you can slip the back section of drive shaft off at the spline.

 

But I still can't get the driveshaft out of the rear end because of the bolt that is stuck...

 

You can buy a bolt and strap kit at Napa for a few bucks. Your gonna need it anyway since you need a bolt. Cut which ever part you want. the bolt or the strap. Trust me I have done this more times than I care to count and never had a problem. (famous last words....)

 

I trust you man! As far as I'm concerned advice from you about trucks is like advice from Larry Flynt about "promiscuous" women! I already bought a bolt at the Ford dealer (never occurred to me then that I might be able to buy a bolt/strap kit at Napa) so I'll try and cut the bolt out tomorrow.

 

heres and idea from working on tired memory bank
if you have three bolts out
pry the opposite cap out enough to clear the centering tang
then tap the cap out from under the strap that is there and remove the drive shaft
that should give you enough room to wrestle with the bolt

 

Drive shaft will separate at the spline once you unbolt carrier bearing. But I like Ray's idea better.