I'm in the middle of putting some goodies in my trans while I'm sevicing it. Already changed out the line presure modulater and accumulator springs.

The guy at the trans part stor seemed to know what he was talking about and told me I could change the boost valve with the trans in the truck but I cant find where to put it. Could I have to remove the whole valve body?

 

I know it gose in the pump but isn't the pump right behind the torque converter? Above where the filter hooks in?

 

http://www.oregonperformancetransmis...gory_Code=E4OD

I this what you are trying to fit?

If so, than you can't install it unless you pull the tranny out and remove the pump, which is located directly behind the torque converter. Than you can take the boost valve and sleeve out.

 

Thats what I thought. Thanks david. That will have to wait till some other week end then. Wounder what the guy was on. I specificly asked hin and he said it could be put in from the bottom. http://www.sonnax.com/part_summary.p...3&make=2&unit= Think this is the same but different brand.

 

replacing the boost valve and sleeve with a steel replacement is a good idea, but its just more involving than you were told, I'm afraid. Off the shelf shift kits (like he one I showed you earlier) usually have several settings to choose from for shift firmness, with the highest usually being the one that "snaps" your neck, as he told you.

I think the TransGo has 3 settings for each shift and the baumann has 5. As long as you don't drill any holes in the valve body, the changes are reversible by removing the extra springs (or spacers in some cases) in the accumulator(s).

 

Yeah just put it back together. And I'm real pleased with the difference it made. I took three springs out and put two new ones in each accumulater. and changed the line presure regulator. I'll just change the boost valve when I pull the engine to reseal the oil pan thats starting to leak. I'll also probly put head studs in while I have it out if I have the money when the leak gets to that point.

 

How would I go about fine tuning the shifts? my 2/3 isn't as firm as my 1/2.

 

There are many ways do do it, but the simplest is to put a stronger spring against the accumulator valve that pertains to the gear shift you want to modify. The accumulator (one for each shift) act basically like a pressure regulator valve, the higher the force against the valve, the more the fluid pressure has to build to defeat the force of the spring. There are of course other factors that determine the shift firmness, but the difference in feel between different shifts is very dependent on the calibration of the accumulator valves with respect to each other. The boost valve is what rises the line pressure across the board.

When you buy a shift kit, you are really paying for a set of instructions and a few springs. Thats why the material in the shift kit has to be copy written, because once you understand the basics, and know what the results will be, its actually quite easy to simply get a spacer of the right size or a spring of the right size and pressure to mod what ever you want, without having to buy another shift kit.

Another way to firm up the shift is to add more friction surface to the clutch pack. I did this with my overdrive clutch as per ford's update and 3-4 is the firmest shift I have right now. Although the 1-2 is a little weak for my 3.08 gears. Changing the flow characteristics of the valve body is often done too. The Baumann shift kit actually removes 3 check ***** from the system, I have no idea how this works, but it seems to work properly.

I'm not going to recommend you try this yourself, because a little effect goes a long way and it might just go too far. And when you consider the cost of your truck, a transmission rebuild, a full pail of ATF, and a $40 shift kit, its just not something that I would take a chance with if it were a vehicle I had to depend on. Knowing what I know now, I probably still wouldn't take a chance with mine. Shift kits seem like a bit of a rippoff, and it probably are, but then again so are a lot of things. If you had a way to carefully measure the springs, and compare them to what is in there, than it might be something I would try, but it would still be mostly trial and error.

 

So firmer springs mean firmer shifts? The set of springs I removed had a spreing with two inside and i replaced it with two springs so if I put that center spring in that might firm up my shifts.

 

In theory, yes. Were there any instructions that came with your kit? As long as the springs cannot tangle or otherwise interfere with each other, you could try it. Just take it easy when you drive it after the change.

 

I did not get a kit just some springs and two valves. He said that the kits they had would have shifted way too hard for what I'm after. The springs shouldn't tangel they are made to go inside of ones the same size as the ones I put in.

 

That should be safe to try then, from what you are describing it sounds like that was how they are intended to work to give you the choice of firmness. You have a set of springs for each accumulator? The transgo kit I have had color coded springs that were intended to fit one inside another, up to three per valve I think. I'm almost tempted to try this on mine tomorrow if I have some time. All I used from my "shift kit" was the replacement valves and I still have all the springs stored.

 

Well kinda except I took out three springs from each and put two new ones in but the ones I put in were longer wich would make them stiffer. I'm also half tempted to try drilling a realy small hole in the accumulator body but could be a lot of trial and error to get it right. If I go too far I could got back to the original springs as i know what size hole works good for them.

Also do thouse litle plugs that clip in to hold the springs in need to seal fluid cuz mine were scored up.

 

Almost positive that those plugs are strictly for providing a backing for the springs (or valve in some cases) and nothing else. I wouldn't worry about it as long as the valves and their respective bores are still clean. I can't offer any advice on drilling the accumulator body. I know it is common to drill an extra orifice on some shift kits, but I'm not up to speed with that particular mod. But I would prefer to make a change that is reversible, as is the case with an extra spring.

 

never drill a hole in the accumulator body , that is installing a leak
refference to drilling the accumulator is when the orifice in the seperator plate is enlarged to the accumulator
from the factory the orifice is .047 in diameter enlarging it allows the accumulator to fill faster causing the shift to complete quicker and also firmer