All further upgrades, notions, changes, technical info, rotten stuff that I wish was different, and everything will go here from now on. This thread IS THE PROJECT THREAD, and there will be no more "OH BY THE WAY" threads launched.

Related threads:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...n-the-way.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...or-it-now.html

 

I will drink 12 or 15 cold beers to help alleviate your frustrations, friend. Let me know if I may be of service in the future.

 

My main thing this weekend is getting the block stripped on a stand. Eyeballing everything for trouble, and making sure the basics are in place.

DANG, NUTZ, SHUCKS! I forgot to bring my dial caliper home from the shop...

Oh well, I'll be happy if there isn't a massive ring ridge stopping me cold.

AND BY THE WAY:

The "Dreaded 18mm Nut that ALL Fords Have" is the one for the bottom engine mount stud. The one that goes through the frame saddle!
Every other blessed fastener in your truck from 1980 onward may be SAE - but THAT THERE SUCKER is a metric one...

 

What is it? You gonna steam it? What kinda plans ya got?

 

It's an EFI 351W (for the record) out of some kind of a service truck.


Got no clue what the frame might get used for, but strange ideas involving RV's are going through my mind.

But that motor is waiting out there for me, it's going to rain all weekend, and I have an air ratchet again.

It being that I have NU'N better to do - I might as well dig in!

Besides, waste oil can kill KUDZU!
(It beats using rock salt on it)

Shopping/Modification list:

351W (Run out to the biggest and baddest 'SQUARE STROKE' it can be)
4 Bolt mains
Hardened rods
Extreme rod bolts
Billet crank
Wild pistons
Ranger II shortbed chassis
C4 with racing internals
Edelbrock Performer RPM heads, Intake, Cam Set, Rollers, and four barrel.
Explorer diff w/ 375 gearing and locker
Fiberglass front cap
FIBERGLASS BED
The widest tire and rim combo I can find (SPORTSMAN has been suggested - like on T-Bucket roadsters)
Stepside fenders mated to a fleetside bed
Welded on Mustang II front suspension (took clean off the K frame)

Lord only knows what's at the end of all this...

 

Sounds like a lot of work, mate! Git'r done!

 

Don't know where it will all come from, but I can trade for stuff....
Gotta have a plan before doing anything...

I can't say that enufff!!!!!

KNOW what you want to do.....

Then git after it.

 

Don't know if its any help or not, but I have a 9 in. rear out of a 67 mustang. Your welcome to it if we can find a way to get it there. It should be close to the right width I think.

 

If you want to run EFI use your intakes lower end & put a edlebrock uppar & tbody on it with a mass air setup & ecu from a mustang on it. That should make it run good. Alabamabuddog put mass air on his 92 f150 with a 302 to go with his cam setup. He used a mustang computer & mass air I believe. You could check with him for more info.

 

Closest I'll be to Florida anytime soon will be Atlanta Georgia in mid february - which oddly enough is where FTE is based out of.

 

Never forget an 11/16ths when building or ripping down a smallblock....

I brought some half inch drive gear home tonight - and tomorrow is a day off.

I WILL have that thing all the way down by tomorrow afternoon!

I have a nine inch out in front of my house - but it's an eight lug DANA.

Any thoughts on strange mods to that?

 

FINALLY!!!
(he snarls)

It looks like I'm in luck on this one. No sign of rust or uneven firing in the bores! It does look like it had more miles on it than was claimed (Why am I not suprised?). It has an appreciable ridge in the upper bore, requiring a ridge reamer to be called into play before I pull the slugs out, just to be careful.

Of interest: Has this block ever been bored out? To find out, I measure the ridge itself from side to side because it is an unworn area of the cylinders. This one reads 04.010, or as close to four inches as I could ask for. It may have been taken ten over at some point, but "WHOOPEE DING!"

Reading the stroke calls for using the dial caliper as a depth guage - First reading the distance below deck height when the piston is at top dead center, then reading it again with the piston at bottom dead center. Taking the smaller from the larger gives an accurate measurement.

In this case, it's so close to three and a half inches it's amazing.

I always like to end up with what is called a "SQUARE" stroke. This is defined as a bore and stroke that are equal. To do this I next need to figure how far over the original bore size I really want to take it. Forty over is probably the maximum safe overbore, so the end result ought to be 4.040" with a 4.040" stroker crank.

At this point I need to look up some old math formulas to figure just how much 'CUBIC' that all amounts to...

The answer is:

(number of cylinders) X 0.7854 X (bore X itself) X Stroke = displacement

This engine will be:

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 align=center border=0><TBODY><TR><TD>Cubic Inch Displacement (CID)</TD><TD>= </TD><TD>414.3095835648 </TD><TD>cubic inches </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

PS: A straight 4" stroke crank will still make it a 410.207 CI

FOOTNOTE:
8 X (4 X 4) X 3.5 X 0.7854 = 351.8592

FOOTNOTE 2:
65 over (0.065 or 65 thousandths) is possible. If that was done - we have two cases -

4" stroke: 415.3 CI
4.065" stroke: 422.048 CI

THIS is what bakes my noodle - the compression of this machine will be determined by the height of the pin bosses in the pistons, and the position of the pin journal in the rods. So do I go with billet rods? Or billet pistons?
Longer rods would be an advantage in strength. It reduces the angle of the rods to the centerline of the bore!

 

There is a 408 stroke kit made for the 351. Its a great racing motor from what I've read. You should be able to buy a kit with the pistons, crank & rods. Your building a badazzed Ranger if you stuff a 408 in it. There is a guy in that other truck club I'm in that races a ranger with a 408 in it. I think he has pics of his install & homebuilt motor mounts in his gallery. I'll check & see.

 

It sure looks to me like I'm going to go with PAW's method...

Based on a 400M crank adapted to a 351W block bored .060

LOOK AT THIS: 427CID 351W Street Beast

It fits my bill - and a shortblock is $2500 with no messing around on my part. All I have to do is save up.

I wonder though if they'll sell the crank, rods, and pistons as a set...

 

*The block itself still needs brass o-ring channels.

NOT IN THE HEADS!

Aluminum is softer than iron.

And SCREW felpro gaskets with the wire already in them! I'd rather cut it myself, and know that they fit.