STGs D60 tech thread Part 1- 35sp outers
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03-19-2008, 12:01 PM
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STGs D60 tech thread Part 1- 35sp outers
79 F250 D60 front 4340 35sp outers
Upgrading to 35spline outers is a piece of cake. I found my best information on Pirate4x4 so Ill post that link. It was my bible while I was doing it but once Ive seen it done I feel like an idiot for printing it out and taping it to the shop wall. I feel this link does a better job explaining it than I can plus it has step by step pics that I didnt take the time to take. It is shown on a chebby axle but I assure you this process is 100% the same.
here it is
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ine/index.html
As seen in this link I went with 4340 Yukon 35sp non neck down inners and spicer life series 1480 u joints. In the beginning I had Yukon 35sp outers but bought and used 35sp Alloy USAs instead. Im keeping the Yukons as spares. The only problem I encountered was I needed to take a flap wheel to the back of the inner yoke on the long side to clear the steering knuckle. Not a lot. Just a touch was enough. Im not sure why but it could be something as simple as a slightly misshaped casting in either the knuckle or the shaft. You might not have this problem. Also I went with 35sp Warn hubs (part # PN 62672) because I do drive this truck on the street. An offroad only truck should use drive flanges as shown to take the full benefit of the 35sp outers. Why create a weak link if you dont have to?
Here you will see the difference in diameter from the 30sp outers to the 35sp outers
The 1.5 diameter outers will be close within your spindles but they do not need to be machined. I tried mine in 3 different sets of 78-79 KP D60 spindles and had no clearance issues. I have heard on this site that they wont fit. This is not true.
Here it is completely assembled
Upgrading to 35spline outers is a piece of cake. I found my best information on Pirate4x4 so Ill post that link. It was my bible while I was doing it but once Ive seen it done I feel like an idiot for printing it out and taping it to the shop wall. I feel this link does a better job explaining it than I can plus it has step by step pics that I didnt take the time to take. It is shown on a chebby axle but I assure you this process is 100% the same.
here it is
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...ine/index.html
As seen in this link I went with 4340 Yukon 35sp non neck down inners and spicer life series 1480 u joints. In the beginning I had Yukon 35sp outers but bought and used 35sp Alloy USAs instead. Im keeping the Yukons as spares. The only problem I encountered was I needed to take a flap wheel to the back of the inner yoke on the long side to clear the steering knuckle. Not a lot. Just a touch was enough. Im not sure why but it could be something as simple as a slightly misshaped casting in either the knuckle or the shaft. You might not have this problem. Also I went with 35sp Warn hubs (part # PN 62672) because I do drive this truck on the street. An offroad only truck should use drive flanges as shown to take the full benefit of the 35sp outers. Why create a weak link if you dont have to?
Here you will see the difference in diameter from the 30sp outers to the 35sp outers
The 1.5 diameter outers will be close within your spindles but they do not need to be machined. I tried mine in 3 different sets of 78-79 KP D60 spindles and had no clearance issues. I have heard on this site that they wont fit. This is not true.
Here it is completely assembled
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03-19-2008, 12:32 PM
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03-19-2008, 12:55 PM
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03-20-2008, 08:27 PM
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03-20-2008, 09:31 PM
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