I managed to remove most of the bolts holding the linkage bracket for the clutch and brake but have a question.

Do I pound the retaining pin out of the clutch arm (at the shaft)?
I was able to remove the nut, amazingly all the bolts underneath the truck are hardly rusty at all, minor scale at best.

Also, how does the U shaped bracket come off the shaft? I don't think I have
the spring that is supposed to be on the end of the shaft...I think that was why I had some interference.

I also found the lug nuts to be overtorqued, the wheels will fit two different bolt patterns, I hope to keep my 5.5 x 5 pattern wheels when I upgrade to front disc brakes. The left front brake cylinder was leaking as well as the master cylinder. I purchased a new 8" dual diaphragm and master cylinder, hope to install next weekend if it arrives in time.

I am curious about brake lines, if upgrading the mc and front to disc, do I have to bend my own lines custom? Can I use a set of pre-bent lines (stainless) and just replace the lines from the frame to the wheel cylinders/calipers with new custom lines for the disc brakes?
I know the MC will have a different line configuration from the stock 3 lines out of the stock MC. Moving the MC back will require front lines to be 6-9" longer and the rear will be shorter.
Should I upgrade the size of the lines (diameter)?

Thanks for any advice.
Bryan

 

Bump to the top, anyone?
Awesome gallery by the way!

 

Thanks Fomoko1 !

If I could figure out how to post a pic in this thread, I would put up my new No Limit brake booster and MC w/remote fill res. ....I haven't opened the box yet, but will tonite!

I am guessing I need to use a BFH to get the pin out of the clutch arm but there is so much gunk and grease on these parts, I have to really dig to find the heads of bolts, cotter pins, etc....The plus side is virtually no rust on any of these parts!

I also ordered a bracket sold by Mid-Fifty for use with the clutch, I believe it to be a longer shaft for the brake/clutch, new bushings and a narrower clutch bracket. I will take lots of pix and hopefully some other newbie will benefit.

 

If it's like an F1, you don't need to bang on anything to get it out. It's been a long time since I stripped th F1, but pretty sure once the lever on the shfat was disconnected, I unbolted the bracket on the frame, then slid it out. ON the frame side was the bracket (with a ball end, IIRC) and then in the shaft was a convex washer thing, then the spring inside of it. Seemed pretty easy to me at the time, but I had the cab off. I never took the pin out, in fact it was still in when I sent to parts to another FTE'er.

Then again there might be some changes compard to yours.

 

Does this help? Pictures from the disassembly of my '53 F-100.

Pedal shaft disassembly

 

That should help him....

There is a tapered pin on the clutch arm outside the frame rail. It will come out only one way... u need a fairly long pin punch to access it. i think you will need to drive out the shaft from the clutch pedal arm. start at the transmission side first to get room to drive the shaft in, then once the pedal arm is off the shaft, slide the bare shaft outwards towards the running boards.

There is a roll pin on the other side of the shaft near the U bracket. This U bracket is what transfers the rotary motion of the shaft to a linear motion to operate the clutch pivot fork.

The kit you have has a longer shaft and the U bracket is 'thinner' this offsets the clutch linkage to clear the booster.

I found it necessary to modify the bracket on the transmission to level out the U bracket by welding a piece on and drilling/tapping at a new higher location... and i 'repaired' the anchor bolt with the shoulder by welding and smoothing it to get the groove out of it.

you should not have to increase the diameter of the lines

you 'may' need to install residual valves in the lines though to prevent back-flow into the master cylinder.

 

I did this recently. The pin/bolt holding the clutch lever onto the shaft has to be driven out with a punch. It's a friction-fit tapered pin. My truck has a 4-speed transmission, and after the clutch lever was removed, the shaft couldn't be removed because is was too long. The transmission had to be removed to get it out. That might not be the case with other trans. However, you might be able to take the bolts out of the bracket it fits into on the frame to get it out. I didn't try that before taking the entire frame apart for cleaning/paining.

 

Thanks Kevin! Unfortunately I have to work from underneath, but it all looks pretty familiar.
I appreciate everyones input, tips and trix can make a huge difference in how much time / beer goes into a project.
I am hoping to replumb the lines, not sure if I buy stock repro lines or just a kit w/20 ft of line and DIY parts.
I will definitely put in check valves and a adjustable prop valve....not sure how to mount it yet, but it is part of the plan.
I still haven't opened the package, got busy last night on some other issues and never made it to the garage.

 

After a long delay, I have my master cylinder, remote fill from No-Limit
Nice item, I think Mid 50 has the same unit.
I spent yesterday cleaning and removing the old lines, some were in great shape and others not so good. Lots of rust on the line going to the rear.
All the rubber lines were cracked and ready to fail.

I have a set of SuperBell front caliper adapters and some 1970 Mach 1 brake calipers, a new set of rotors but need to get the correct wheel bearings.
I am concerned these are used / going to clean up ok.

Truck is so close to being torn down I am tempted to take the cab off the frame and start from there....just don't have much space to work in the garage right now.

I was a bit concerned about brake lines, but after removing the old ones, I think the new ones will be easy. I just need to get the prop valve, residual valves and some lines. I don't know what type of fittings to use to go thru the frame do I use something like the originals?

Thanks,
Bryan