just replaced cheap lifters in my wheezer...10 were bad...as in no play at all...none...they all looked right ie not indented or collapsed into the lifter. No spring action inside the lifter...some had a bit and 3-4 seemed as new but were replaced anyway.

what could cause that? Preload was right but it was my first build so maybe I screwed with them too much figuring the process out? I know it was right when i finally got it down and put them in...and engine ran well w/o excessive noise.

Adjustable roller rockers were and are used. Replaced lifters with good ones from tmeyer.

 

Take a lifter and put it in a vise. Use a short bolt or something to collapse the
plunger. Using the vise, force the plunger down. It should have about .150-.187" travel, Oil will come out the bleed
hole. Do this and see what happens and see how it feels.

 

Tim,
I don't want to jump on this thread, but I have a question about lifters. What type of lifters are used in the D***e Hemi Displacement Management System.
What is special about them that they will collapse enough to allow the valve to remain closed when the oil pressure is removed?

 

on that note how about the rhodes lifters that mess with duration allowing better low end torque and upper end fow....like using a bigger cam then getting low rpm performance as well?

I'll be buttoning up the bronco tomorrw and will test the lifters and report back...i bet something breaks.

 

When lifters have been pumped up with oil they are very hard to depress. They have to work against a lot of spring pressure.

 

roger, paul, a few points and ?,s 1 it is alot of work, but i have had success VERY CAREFULLY taking hyd lifs apart. clean with lacqyuer thinner or brake clean ressamble and pay particular attention to the retaining ring . depending on the design, ie circlips you will notice under magnification that one side of the clip is surface ground flat, the opposing side will have a rounded shoulder. the sharp side must always face up against the groove, away from the internals. inverted, the clip wants to walk out of its groove. i do this to restore your ability to depress the cup and not have to wait or work against the bleed down process as Big Bear described, ie start all over. again, it is ALOT of work but you do not sound lazy to me. my ?s. i wish you would elaborate on your initial adjustment procedure , i wonder how you got in the trick bag at the start. is it possible you did not have each lifter at the base circle of the lobe. are your galleys getting sufficient oil and/or pressure. honestly, you know i think alot of you but your post is not making proper sense tm me mechanically. i am intersted, i want to help and i like you alot. maybe i just did not read you right, (you know, the internet thing) anyway to close, your rhoads lifters, i have looked at those lifters my entire life. the concept sounds good, i just never had the $ or the courage to try them if they turned out to be an expensive mistake. i also am deeply interested in rhoads. maybe somebody will pony and share, bye for now boss. paul kiernan.

 

roger, paul, did i say something wrong here. if i did i did not set out to. remember my mantra, it is ALWAYS about the MOTOR the MOTOR. i will not bother you but it bothers me mechanically that a strait up guy like you has an issue that frankly is mechanically based. there is no black magic to properly assembling an engine and makin her bark. WE ALL just have to follow the rules period. how close and how far a man goes in the end usually just translates to how deep the famous CHECKBOOK is. later paul. md.

 

The way I understand it is that it is a two (three?) piece hydraulic lifter. When it is time to activate MDS, the computer opens some solenoids, and lets oil flow to a certain part of the lifter. This causes the lifter to diesengage. The cam side of the lifter still moves up and down, but the valve side stays staionary, because the lifter is now unlocked.

 

paul...sorry it took so long to respond...worked long hours last couple of days.

First, please understand that my skills and knowledge are scattered at best. Somethings I have experience with and some are more difficult...when I have time i can get dirty and figure most anything out but i also have extreme commitments to courts and judges etc at times and once a judge pitches a tent up my hind-end over an evaluation etc...i can't spend the time i'd like in figuring it all out and rebuilding parts.

There is no doubt in my mind that the valves were adjusted right and on the base circle...i used 3 methods...

first i rotated the engine until the intake valve opened and closed then completed the adjustment on that cylinder by taking out the slack and then turning the nut 1 1/4 turns before tightening the poly-lock. (adjustable rockers). Then I rechecked each exhaust valve with the intake open and viseversa. I also had the dial indicator hooked up and made sure each lifter was depressed at about 040 min 050 max. ((I could be off a few thousanths...it was a while ago.

The engine ran fine for about 2,000 miles then a pronounced knock developed on the 7th cyl...with lighter knocking on others so i adusted them with the engine idling...
basically tightened until the noise stopped and then another 1/4 turn...didn't want to tighten them too much..on a few cylinders the noise would return and I doubt that they are loosening (but could be) as the the locks are still tight when i readjust them. Could be that the lock and nut were turning together i guess. It threw a pushrod at one point and broke a rocker arm...(cheap aluminum roller rockers). didn't bend the pushrod. I'm sure that the push rod jamed with the lip on the rocker arm when it came out and forced the issue.

The lifters came in a cheap master kit...who knows who made them. So I replaced them with good ones from TMI. I have 100 miles on it now w/o noise...some clatter but not sure how much noise rollers make when the head has it's own guide holes that make contact with the pushrod....new experience for me i guess. '65 289 4v heads on a wheezer block.

so thats my story and i'm sticking too it... thanks for the help.

rog