1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

14 thousand lbs. of trouble.....

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  #16  
Old 03-09-2008, 04:15 PM
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well when i did my clutch back a few weeks ago... my clutch disk was good... but the dm flywheel was shot... so you prolly just need a flywheel... and you can not see the wear it is internal...
 
  #17  
Old 03-09-2008, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by thewellman
On the clutch rework, I got a couple acres and a mobile home, no slabs or shop bldg or propper tranny jacks, etc. I might could try to purch. the parts online, then still need to sub out the wrench work, I'm just not tooled up for much past water pumps and such.
It does not take alot of tools and equipment to do a clutch job (yes they do make it easier, but are not required). I have broken apart tractors in the field (middle of a plowed field) and replaced clutches there.

You need hand tools, (rachet, sockets, extentions "several long ones", wrenches, a floor jack, rachet strap, maybe a set of ramps or jack stand "depending on the height of your truck", and a 4' X 8' sheet of 1/2 or thicker plywood.

Depending on the ground clearance on your truck, put it on the ramps or jack stands. Put the plywood under the middle of your truck with the front edge just past the rear of the oil pan (adjust as neccessary). The plywood is used to support the floor jack and allow you to be able to roll the jack backwards with the trans on it. Disconnect the drive shaft, electrical connections, shifter, Ebrake, clutch slave cylinder, etc. Place the floor jack under the trans (alittle forward past center), secure the trans to the jack head with the rachet strap. Remove the trans support, remove the bottom trans to engine bolts, slightly lower the trans (allowing the rear of the engine to tilt down **WATCH THE FAN TO RADIATOR CLEARANCE** ) just lower it enough to be able to reach the top trans to engine bolts with a couple of long extentions hooked together on your rachet. Once these two bolts are out, raise the trans back up, and block the rear of the oil pan (to support the rear of the engine with the trans off. Take out the side trans to engine bolts, pry the trans away from the engine, and while adjusting the height of the jack roll the jack (with trans attached) back to clear the flywheel/clutch and lower.

Leave the trans on the jack and replace the flywheel/clutch. Do everything in reverse order to install. This way is cheaper than $300 to $400 in labor at a shop, plus you will have the tools that you had to purchase.

Let us know if we can help.
 
  #18  
Old 03-09-2008, 10:22 PM
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valair clutch is in mineral wells there a bit cheaper on the clutch kits too what part of central tx??

ive seen some of thoose ebrake assy's on ebay cheap too
 
  #19  
Old 03-09-2008, 10:23 PM
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Hey thanks Hand, It gets better! The rig has three outriggers that are hydraulic off the PTO, I can raise the whole blame thing, front and back, till where the tires are about 6" in the air. That should give working room, heck, I guess you could block it there and raise it up again a whole nuther stroke. You could probably get it to where you could crawl around on your hands and knees. Sure is handy. ( it's for supporting the truck when the boom is up at 40', and you're pulling a load,(deep weel column))
 
  #20  
Old 03-09-2008, 10:26 PM
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I'm in Spicewood, bout halfway tween Austin and Llano. Mineral Wells is straight up hwy 281 just a few hours. thanks
 
  #21  
Old 03-09-2008, 10:35 PM
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theres another guy here thats in spicewood, rubberduck is hes got a 4x4 crewcab dually, he's runnin a val air clutch too
 
  #22  
Old 03-14-2008, 12:08 AM
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Unhappy ZF & clutch pros, is it over?

I pulled the rig in tonite and was idling in neutral, then there came the worst clunk/scrape/slow revolving/ grinding moan of death, I thought sure it was going to pull down the R's and kill the engine. I quickly pressed the clutch about half, thinking sure I could "change the sound up, or feel the destruction with my foot, but surprisingly, it felt fine! No vibration, rattling, nothing, the shifter handle even felt normal, and all the while the death moan was still going on. I'm really stumped. I shifted thru the gears, pulled forward and back, turned it off and back on, it felt normal,. After restart, the sound changed and lessened, even stopped for a bit. No schrapnel in the insp.cover. It sounded like the would be chunks of asbestos and chewed up TO bearing at the very least. Sorry to rattle here, but has any of yall been "at the funeral" so to speak with a clutch, and or flywheel. What was the sounds? Vibrations? Intermittant? Constant? The pedal feels like I could just drive it off in the morning, but I'm scared to get stuck out on a location. Any input from past experiences will be greatly appreciated.
Signed, sleepless in central Texas, scared to turn the key, Jay
 
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