Yes and thats even before it would ever hook up, wheel hop is too bad. I had some ideas to try to fix it and I had a buddy that was gonna make me some 35 spline hubs and shafts but after thinking about it I dont wanna reinvent the wheel on it so the solid axle got the nod. Besides I am now installing a bigger turbo and a large supercharger that will give me instant boost (posotive boost at idle) so I need something to handle the shock of all that tq. I looked for a month and decided the 14 bolt had the strengh, driveablility I want on the street and track and is light enough for what I want. Of course the 14 bolt will be one off custom as well but its easier to get done than the IRS.

 

But why not use a FORD 9". Maybe I'm confused but you are talking about the GM 14 bolt correct. Also that is a MONSTER axle housing I guess I cant see how that it is lighter and more effective especially if being used on the drag strip.

 

wit the torque he's got he needs it to last the way down the track.lol
still might need a rebuild every run though.

 

Call Currie. He wont ever break it

 

Now that your going to be using the 14 bolt, any plans to go back to the IRS. Or is it gone for good?
Also I really want to do the IRS swap, ive got the parts but am still on the fence.
I want to be able to tow a small motorcycle trailer.
I would like to eventually bag the truck, which having this IFS and IRS would mean I can keep the stock bed and still be ultra low.
***
What is your full opinion on the IRS?
Is it worth the build?
How well does it ride?
Anything you would do different?

 

Ok I know alot of people are going to argue with me but trust me I have done the research and I dont care what anyone says THE 9" WILL NOT WORK IN MY APPLICATION! The 9" only comes with a limited slip or any other street friendly differential up to a 31 spline shaft NOT GONNA CUT IT. The 9" will handle whatever I plan to throw at it if I wanted to go to a 35 or 40 spline shaft but then I would have to go to a locker and that wont work for me since this is mainly a street vehicle, ARB makes a 35 spline air locker but I have been reading how it basicly sucks and isnt the same quality as other ARB air lockers, they have some fixes for it but I am not going to invest over a grand in a questionable differential.

The simple deal here was to go with a 14 bolt WITH A BIG TWIST. I know most of you are thinking thats a huge axle that weighs 550lbs and eats alot of power to turn. Well again I started thinking outside the box and decided to do just what alot of people told me cant be done, I went with a 9.5" 14 bolt, not the famous big brother 10.5" 14 bolt.

The 9.5" is a c clip axle in stock form with 33 spline axles, it is similar in weight to a D60 semi float and overall a pretty strong axle.

I bought a 9.5" 14 bolt axle from a 1999 chevy truck for $200, it has huge disc brakes in an 8 lug pattern that I sold for $150 so now total cost in this axle is $50. The axle already has the 3.42 gears I want so that saves me $300 right there.

I will be taking the 14 bolt cut off the flanges at each end shorten the housing to my desired length and weld on ford 9" big bearing housing ends so I can eliminate the c clips. After I have the 9" bearing housings on I can order some custom moser hardened 33 spline axles and install the 3.42 gears and a Detroit Tru-Trac diff. For brakes I have a 98 ford explorer axle sitting at the house I can take the brakes from it and install on the new big bearing 9" housing ends with a simple fabricated bracket.

So I will have this much total invested

9.5" 14 bolt with 3.42 gears $50
gear setup kit $150
detroit tru track $430
moser axles 33 spline $300
9" big bearing housing ends $80
explorer brakes $ free

Grand total for a bullet proof axle basicly $1000 for something that will handle the power on the street and at the track, even with the planned slicks.

 

As for doing something different??? I dont know, I like the experience but then again I built/am building this truck as a test vehicle since I have tested so many different things for myself and others to learn. The IRS was a fun project so I had something different and could prove a few buddies wrong about making it work. If I had to do it over again I would have looked into a more modern IRS from a modern SUV, they have stronger diffs and much stronger axles not to mention they wouldnt be any more work to install. For a gas motor I cant see the IRS being a big problem, it can be upgraded with some DSS lvl 5 axles and the diff is pretty strong, swap in some cobra hubs and it will do fine. For my little diesel with a supercharger and turbocharger setup I just dont think it will ever survive for what I am planning on doing.

I am installing a bullet proof trans so I need a bulletproof axle that will not wheel hop and not break axle shafts so I had to get rid of the IRS, it was a long thought out process but I installed the IRS knowing I might have to eventually toss it when things got out of hand so to speak.

I have also considered just selling the complete chassis to someone so they could use it since it would be a shame to cut out the IRS just to set it aside and sit, I have a spare chassis I could build but who knows.

 

CARCRAFTER22, DOES YOUR FRONT TIRES RUB AGAINST THE FENDER WHEN YOU ARE TURNING AND GOING INTO YOUR DRIVEWAY, MY TRUCK DOES THAT. I HAVE 20" WHEELS ON IT AND I'M TRYING TO FIND A WAY TO RAISE THE FRONT AT LEAST 1", DO YOU KNOW A WAY TO DO THAT, I DONT HAVE THE POLICE SPRINGS I HAVE THE REGULAR SPRINGS, BUT I DONT KNOW IF I CHANGE THEM TO THE POLICE SPRINGS WILL MAKE ANY DIFERENCE. ANY HELP PLEASE.

THANKS

 

how did you lower the rear end?
thanks

 

MARKS69

I USE A 4" LOWERING KIT FROM DJM SUSPENSION

 

can you do me a huge favor carcrafter? I need a measurement from the bottom of the crown vic crossmember to the ground with the weight of the truck on the suspension?Measure from where the little skid pads are on the bottom of the crossmember please!!!!?thanks

 

Read back a few posts - Randy's in PA for work for a few weeks. Maybe72f100 or one of the other guys can measure theirs for you?

 

Thanks Rusty, I was going to say that LOL, sucks being 1600 miles from the house but money is nice to have oh and food and electricity....... LOL

My measurments would be different anyway since I am running a heavy diesel instead of a light weight gasser.

 

Yea i figured it was a little heavier but I still have all factory stuff intact including smog ac etc on my 351 so i fgured it would only drop it maybe an inch at most.. That and the bronco frame is considerably heavier than a regular f series truck and mine is boxed with heavy 3/16's steel plate..Any one else have some measurements?

 

ROBSLXTACY, I MEASURE ABOUT 8.5" WITH 20" WHEELS, I DID NOT GET THE TIRE SIZE.