If your talking about the upper mount that bolt to the suspension and then to the top of the frame rail, it also swivels up and down, then yes, the bolts that have a longer than normal bolt head.

As for the 4 holes. I scribed the holes on the underside of the frame first. Drill those holes. Then I used a square to transfer the hole center line to the top of the frame. I measured a few different times to find the exact spot to drill. I even inserted the frame bolt and kinda eye balled it to see if my measured drill spot was were it needed to be. Once I was happy, I drilled the holes.

For the spacers that I made for the upper frame. I used 3/8, and 1/4 inch steel plates welded together, then to the top of the frame.

 

thanks, 72-f100

 

need some input. im linning things up to drill the four bolt holes. when i take the measurments from the wheels base i get one thing and when i take measurments from bolt holes i get another. the bolt holes show it off the same amount no matter what hole i use. my thoughts are that the rear axle could have moved a bit on one side or the other and would explain the diffrences side to side. went to ford today and paid for the bolts for the upper mount. they only sold them in fours, so if anyone needs any let me know and ill send some your way.

 

Not sure what to say to help you out here. You say that you measured the wheel base. To be honest, I didnt measure this when I did mine. I put alot of trust in Ford and the assembly of the frame on my truck. The frame appeared straight without any damage, so I measured everything from the identical frame holes, top/bottom. I even measured from the frame jig pins. I also measured from the edge of the cab mount brackets rivited to the frame on either side.

I guess what im saying is that, I belive it is more important to square it up on the front of the frame rails. If the wheel base increase a bit or decreases a bit (im talking less than an inch, or even less that that) you shouldnt have any problems.

I know some might say that I could have some issues because I relied on very old work and over time things could be misaligned. But it all measures fine on the frame and there is some slight play once the suspension is in place to compensate for any slight deviations that could occur. Once it is bolted down though, it is not going to move.

 

carcrafter22 or 72-F100-4V or whoever has done this swap. I ask before on how hard is your truck with this convertion to turn, I guess compared to a new truck or car since this front sus. is from a new car. I bought a new power steering pump one that is supposed to be better than the stock pump, is a saginaw cardone 20-6244, and based on what i read on the internet, this pump is used on broncos 4x4 with big tires. To turn my truck is a little bit hard, so I'm asking those who have done the sawp, how hard is your truck to turn, I have a 2003 F150 and is real easy to turn, also, my front sus from the cv does not have the police springs, will these make a diference on turning the wheels, or does not make any diference. Thanks for all your help.

 

does anyone know if the after market engine perche for a 302 that goes from frame rail to frame rail for the 64 f100 will work with the ifs set up. try to figure out how to intall my 351w now that i have the ifs in.

 

They might, I looked at the one for a 460 in a 61-64 and I didn't have enough room. It should be pretty easy to fab them for a 351w.

 

I did my frontend alittle differnt , I marked the center line for the wheels across the frame as the thread mentioned before , then I removed the old frontend and moved the cv frontend in . Jacked it up against the frame rails and measured the wheelbase .(I measured the wheelbase with pressure on the lower control arms ) Then I found two bolt holes that are on differnt sides of the truck .( I used the front leafspring mount on my 64 ) Then measured to confirm that both sides are the same ,at the same time I confirmed the front was square side to side .(It came up perfect in all directions ) I then marked the frame rails top and bottom with a marker .(soap stone , marker , punch.....)(front and back also the 4 holes and alignment pins) Then I removed the cv frontend and used a torch to cut the holes for the 4 bolts and 2 larger ones for the alignment pins . (I cut the holes alittle bigger than the bolt size and pins .) I cut 4 pcs of tubing (about 7 inches long ) that is supposed to run between the frame rails (make sure the bolts fits through snug). I then jacked the cv frontend backup then squared everything again . Slide the tubing through the top frame rail and confirm that the front is squared again . (SNUG THE 4 BOLTS ) Confirm this where you want it . Tack weld the tubing in . Now put a washer over the alignment pin and tac it . (The tubing should be sticking out the top of your frame rail ) Remove the frontend and weld the tubing and washer in perment . Grind the bottom of your frame rail to inssure that the cv frontend is not setting on a weld or bugger . Install the cv frontend . If the top arms(for the 4 bolts) do not set level then grind the top of the tubing off till it does . Use a file to remove any metal in the tubing that has curled in during grinding . Box your frame in all the way up to the top of the tubing . Install the 4 bolts and tighten . thanks rg

 

On the wheel base , the rearend can be moved as simply as getting yanked out of a mud hole or snow drift with someone hooking up to the leaf spring instead of the frame rail . We have seen racecars strapped by the front a frame and rearend on differnt sides and cranking it down tight with a winch . He then asks why his car is not the same every week . If the wheelbase is off alittle fix it when you lower the rearend . I would go with the bolt hole as 72 says . (most frame repair machines do ) thanks rg

 

Inkahootz I had a question on the sleeves for the bolt frames, You had the hole all the way through the frame to be flush with the top frame rail. On mine and I believe others they had the sleeve included between the rails and welded from the inside. Is there any great difference between the two methods I could see where the weld may be stronger. Any advice would be great I am NOT being critical just curious.
Jason

 

Hi guys I am sure it is just my imagination but some of the rotating pads on the trailing arms look different in size. I am making my trailing arm brackets tomorrow and wondering if I should use the pad as a template or should they be a little wider. I also noticed in some users installations they have radiused the frame for the inner mounting bolt. On the bracket to the frame the front looks slightly elevated and not flush to the frame. If so what approximate shim is this and is it with the weight on the chassis?
My other question is for adjusting the alignment, some bolt holes have nuts permanantly welded to the mounting tab. I was wondering if a sloted hole on the tab would be any easier for alignment? I know the trailing arm bracket has oval holes for fore and aft adjustment and wondering if the welded bracket would benefit from a lateral adjustable feature. I am probably over analyzing this but this has been the best thread for specific advice.
Jason

 

The only reason I went all the way through the frame was to make it easier to line up instead of trying to drill the absolute perfect hole . When I jacked the frontend up against the frame(after putting the holes in the frame rails ). I used a rubber mallet to move the front end into the correct spot before tacking the tubing in the correct position . I really didnt do it for the strenght of it .
I believe that either way is strong enough for what we are doing . I just did it this way because this is something Ive learned about ligning things up the fast and easy way .
Actually you could cut the tubing to the correct hieght as the frame rails and have the same results as the others that had installed this frontend . Drilling is not as critical as you think as long as you have a welder and grinder . Ive done alot of chassis changes where we had drilled a hole alot bigger than we need and using a bushing or pipe to fill to the correct size then welding around it and grinding . You would never know the differnce . Thanks RG

 

jmfnx I think the mounting bracket doesn't adjust for the alignment. The lower a-arm nut that ataches bracket to the a-arm is the alignment piece. You put a ecentric washer to align it. if you take the bushing off you will see the bushing is slotted. When I mounted my frontend I didn't use the real long bolts that go all the ay through the frame, I used 4 grade 8 bolts for each side and welded the nuts to the frame, and then boxed it. I guess just another way of doing it.

 

I used the trailing arm bracket as the template. And it does not have to be wider then the actual trailing arm pad.

As for the inner bolt for the trailing arm bracket, my frame was already radiused, and it just worked out the bolt lined up with this perfect. (I think Ford secretly designed this suspension to bolt into this truck as it everything fits so good)

The bracket does not sit level with the top of the frame. I used 3/8 and 1/4 inch steel welded together to take up this space. So 5/8 inch is what you are after to take up the gap between the upper suspension bracket and the top of the frame.

I just reread your question. I think you are refering to the trailing arm bracket and how it does not sit flush with the frame? I dont remember what the difference is, but I just had the trailing arm bracket bolted to the trailing arm, and measured the difference, cut some 1/4 inch steel and welded it into place.

 

I posted this before, anyone has a coment. Thanks