preparing new front fenders
#1
preparing new front fenders
i just brought home two new front fenders. i am on a body learn as i go by reading and surfing. i cant seem to find out what i do to prepare my new fenders before i mount them. they have that black coating on them. is this primer? also there is the outside part the air space then the inside . how do i ccoat in the middle and with what? i really want to do it rite. its an 85 f150. i am sand blasting the frame. then spraying with rust primer then rust paint. also putting energy suspension body mounts. new engine 350 horse . new trans c6 and 8.8 355 rear end. wow it is a lot of work but very rewarding. any help would be great, thanks
#2
I never trust the factory primer they paint & ship the after market parts with, so i would recommend sanding off the primer to bare metal and clean and prime them with a good epoxy primer to protect the metal. If you plan on painting the fender right away you can prime the bare metal with an acid etch primer followed by a high build primer, block sand the surface and then go with a basecoat/clearcoat system to finish the job. It's always a good idea to stick with one manufactures products from start to finish and find a paint store close to you that is willing to guide you if you're planning on painting your truck yourself.
#3
#4
Originally Posted by Indy_Gearhead71
The coating is called EDP, it's not a bad system really, you can just scuff it off and paint if you want to. Personally I scuff it, then prime and block before painting, it just insures that you have enough of a base to start with.
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#8
On my build I replaced part of the floor with patch panels and I scuffed them then used roll on bed liner, 2 coats top & bottom.
I do plan on installing a rug but till them the bed line will have to do.
Dave ----
#10
You need primer on bare metal as the primer sticks to metal and paint sticks to the primer.
There is no need to go to bare metal on any body panels if what is on there is not flaking off.
When I would at a dealer ship body shop we would fix any damage in shipping, scuff the black coating, prime it, scuff the primer and paint and never had any come backs.
If the panels have paint that is sticking good there is no need to remove it to bare metal.
Only if the paint has many coats like 3 paint jobs, is checking from rust under the body work or primer / paint or is flaking off.
Dave ----
#11
Thank you for the info.
so i have been using this process as my guide.
etcher/sealer metal blast https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Bu...last-P376.aspx
primer
base coat
clear coat
is this good?
Scott
so i have been using this process as my guide.
etcher/sealer metal blast https://www.theruststore.com/Rust-Bu...last-P376.aspx
primer
base coat
clear coat
is this good?
Scott
#13
I am old school and why the lacquer primer so I like bare metal to put body filler on.
I know some of the newerror primers you can put filler over. Think any of the 2 part primers you can but I would check with the supplier and do as they say.
As for the way you have been doing it again check with the suppliers.
I am not a fan of spraying bc/cc as you are doing 2 times the work. 4 or 5 coats of base to get coverage and the same with clear so 8 to 10 coats total.
Single stage 4 or 5 coats maybe 6 if you want and done.
And if done right no cut and buffing needed.
All mine is done like the factory, single stage and it is flat.
Dave ----
I know some of the newerror primers you can put filler over. Think any of the 2 part primers you can but I would check with the supplier and do as they say.
As for the way you have been doing it again check with the suppliers.
I am not a fan of spraying bc/cc as you are doing 2 times the work. 4 or 5 coats of base to get coverage and the same with clear so 8 to 10 coats total.
Single stage 4 or 5 coats maybe 6 if you want and done.
And if done right no cut and buffing needed.
All mine is done like the factory, single stage and it is flat.
Dave ----
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