Best weight oil for Modular V-10
#16
Originally Posted by Genesis
No offense taken. Overkill with maintenance is something I've always been guilty of. It's habit forming. I only put about 6K a year on my van so it's not that costly for me. I know 5 to 7K would be just fine with the synthetic and I like the peace of mind knowing if I don't get to a change I'm more than covered. My V-10 only uses 6 quarts which doesn't thrill me either. This engine should use 7 or 8 then I would feel better about longer OCI's.
#17
Originally Posted by dkf
The camshafts in Modular motors actually ride on the machined aluminum head surface. There are no bearings that it rides on, just steel to aluminum. Oil needs to get between the cam journals and the head for proper lubrication and thick oils just won't do that.
#18
Originally Posted by rsylvstr
great thread, i didn't know that. WOW....that scares me. so there aren't even sealed cam bearings on the end of the shaft? wow....
That is an important reason why thinner oil is needed. There are very tight tolerances on the modular motors. The oil needs to be thin enough to get in the tiny gaps to lubricate properly.
Modular motors have been proven to last so obviously the cams riding on aluminum is not an issue. There are oil holes that oil shoots in to lubricate the bearing surface. If the proper oil is used the motor will last a long time.
Thats why I want good quality clean oil in my engine.
#20
Definitely....
Originally Posted by dkf
From what I can tell by my manuals the cam shaft only rides on the machined aluminum surfaces cast into the head from end to end.
That is an important reason why thinner oil is needed. There are very tight tolerances on the modular motors. The oil needs to be thin enough to get in the tiny gaps to lubricate properly.
Modular motors have been proven to last so obviously the cams riding on aluminum is not an issue. There are oil holes that oil shoots in to lubricate the bearing surface. If the proper oil is used the motor will last a long time.
Thats why I want good quality clean oil in my engine.
That is an important reason why thinner oil is needed. There are very tight tolerances on the modular motors. The oil needs to be thin enough to get in the tiny gaps to lubricate properly.
Modular motors have been proven to last so obviously the cams riding on aluminum is not an issue. There are oil holes that oil shoots in to lubricate the bearing surface. If the proper oil is used the motor will last a long time.
Thats why I want good quality clean oil in my engine.
The guy was a former SCCA racer and spent the better part of a summer doing a head replacement with a junkyard piece--got it buttoned up and still had problems with the head gasket (also finicky on the mod motors if the surfaces aren't right). Eventually paid to get it done right.
I also disagree with the Lubriplate engineer. I have seen many instances of folks changing to synthetic oil later in a car's life (50-100k or even more miles) with no problems. If the seals don't leak, they won't leak with a similar weight synthetic. In the early days of synthetics, they did contain stuff (esters or like that?) that actually would shrink seals, but those days are long gone.
George
#21
#22
Originally Posted by dkf
From what I can tell by my manuals the cam shaft only rides on the machined aluminum surfaces cast into the head from end to end.
That is an important reason why thinner oil is needed. There are very tight tolerances on the modular motors. The oil needs to be thin enough to get in the tiny gaps to lubricate properly.
Modular motors have been proven to last so obviously the cams riding on aluminum is not an issue. There are oil holes that oil shoots in to lubricate the bearing surface. If the proper oil is used the motor will last a long time.
Thats why I want good quality clean oil in my engine.
That is an important reason why thinner oil is needed. There are very tight tolerances on the modular motors. The oil needs to be thin enough to get in the tiny gaps to lubricate properly.
Modular motors have been proven to last so obviously the cams riding on aluminum is not an issue. There are oil holes that oil shoots in to lubricate the bearing surface. If the proper oil is used the motor will last a long time.
Thats why I want good quality clean oil in my engine.
#23
What George is saying is right on. The cams run right in their journals with no bearing shells. If you wear out the cams your only option is to replace the heads. The cams, being the highest part of the engine are the last to see oil pressure at startup, hence, a 5W oil gets there twice as fast a a 10W oil, especially in cold temperatures. The other thing is there are no dedicated oil ports for the cylinder walls and wrist pins. It's all done by what Ford calls "misting" or what we old guys call splash. All these points lumped together mean to get the longest life from the V-10 the best thing we can do is run good clean oil and change it often. The two best oils are the 5-20 or the 5-30 but probably best to avoid the rest in the V-10
#24
Originally Posted by T18skyguy
What George is saying is right on. The cams run right in their journals with no bearing shells. If you wear out the cams your only option is to replace the heads. The cams, being the highest part of the engine are the last to see oil pressure at startup, hence, a 5W oil gets there twice as fast a a 10W oil, especially in cold temperatures. The other thing is there are no dedicated oil ports for the cylinder walls and wrist pins. It's all done by what Ford calls "misting" or what we old guys call splash. All these points lumped together mean to get the longest life from the V-10 the best thing we can do is run good clean oil and change it often. The two best oils are the 5-20 or the 5-30 but probably best to avoid the rest in the V-10
#25
Originally Posted by rsylvstr
does this apply to the 5.4L also?
It is just more important on the V10 because of the 2 extra cylinders which means a longer camshaft, longer heads and more cam journals than the 4.6l and 5.4l V8s.
#26
#27
The two best oils are the 5-20 or the 5-30 but probably best to avoid the rest in the V-10
If the manual says to use 5-20, I'd use 5-20, and, since Motorcraft 5-20 just happens to be one of the highest rated 5-20's out there, it's a perfect fit.
#28
[QUOTE=R-WEST]I've read some stories about guys having issues (oil filters expanding or splitting) when heavier oils like 15-40 or 20-50 are used in Mod engines. I'm not certain whether it was only in the V-10, or if the other Mods were involved. And, there was some debate about whether it was an oil pump issue or a filter issue, but I don't think there's ever been such a problem identified in which 5-20 or 5-30 were the weights being used.
If the manual says to use 5-20, I'd use 5-20, and, since Motorcraft 5-20 just happens to be one of the highest rated 5-20's out there, it's a perfect fit.
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I still can't understand why some people still insist on using thick oils, in ANY engine, really. A waste, and unecessary on many fronts.
The only exception is a loose, worn piston-slappin' oil burner, then you need the thicker oil to make up for worn engine parts.
I laugh at the "well thinner oils cannot take the heat". Have you ever noticed and looked at how HOT modern engines run now? These engines are designed to run at a much hotter engine temperature, as compared to a carb V-8 engine from the 1960s. Oils today can take these high heat conditions, back in the 50s 60s and 70s we needed thicker oils to protect in high heat conditions (such as towing applications, while climbing hills) but not today.
ESPECIALLy, not in any fuel injected engine, with a catalytic converter and 02 sensor. High viscosity oil serves no usefull purpose.
If the manual says to use 5-20, I'd use 5-20, and, since Motorcraft 5-20 just happens to be one of the highest rated 5-20's out there, it's a perfect fit.
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I still can't understand why some people still insist on using thick oils, in ANY engine, really. A waste, and unecessary on many fronts.
The only exception is a loose, worn piston-slappin' oil burner, then you need the thicker oil to make up for worn engine parts.
I laugh at the "well thinner oils cannot take the heat". Have you ever noticed and looked at how HOT modern engines run now? These engines are designed to run at a much hotter engine temperature, as compared to a carb V-8 engine from the 1960s. Oils today can take these high heat conditions, back in the 50s 60s and 70s we needed thicker oils to protect in high heat conditions (such as towing applications, while climbing hills) but not today.
ESPECIALLy, not in any fuel injected engine, with a catalytic converter and 02 sensor. High viscosity oil serves no usefull purpose.
#29
I know that I am getting to this a little late, but I have 10w40 in my V10 right know.
It has 162k on that oil. I feel sick after reading this.
What should I go with? the book says 5w30. Should I use that or 5w20?
I have always used castrol conventional.
How much life have i taken off of my truck?
It has 162k on that oil. I feel sick after reading this.
What should I go with? the book says 5w30. Should I use that or 5w20?
I have always used castrol conventional.
How much life have i taken off of my truck?
#30
I know that I am getting to this a little late, but I have 10w40 in my V10 right know.
It has 162k on that oil. I feel sick after reading this.
What should I go with? the book says 5w30. Should I use that or 5w20?
I have always used castrol conventional.
How much life have i taken off of my truck?
It has 162k on that oil. I feel sick after reading this.
What should I go with? the book says 5w30. Should I use that or 5w20?
I have always used castrol conventional.
How much life have i taken off of my truck?
Good luck,
George