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My diff fluid change has turned into a nightmare...

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Old 02-23-2008, 06:22 PM
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Angry My diff fluid change has turned into a nightmare...

Everything was easy enough, especially with guzzle's write-up. Then I was torquing one of the last bolts and the head sheared right off. Crap.

Drove to Lowe's and got another bolt and screw extractors. Spent the last two hours trying to get that bolt out. It is really stuck. I have no idea why. I was almost to ~35ft lbs when it came off, would stand to reason that 35ft lbs would take it off but no. AAGHH!

I'm halfway through refilling it and it's not leaking. Should it be okay missing a bolt? (It's on the left side).

Any more ideas to get it out other than the dealership?
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:36 PM
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Where is this bolt? What size? Is it holding the pan? Must be a pretty large bolt to be torqued to 35 ft/lb.

Did you do the drill and extract process or just said "the heck with it"?

We all know your pain. If you work on anything with bolts, sooner or later this will happen. Can you tell that I don't have any ideas other than what you probably have tried? Certainly don't want to try to weld a nut on it if it is in aluminum.

OK, you can use a chisel and make a slot in the end of the bolt. Then take an impact screw driver with a straight bit and see if you can remove it that way. Good luck!
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:45 PM
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EZ OUT from Craftsman tools
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:52 PM
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I have had pretty good luck with using a Dremel, with a thin cutoff wheel, to cut a slot across the bolt. then you can do as Farmdad says, and use an impact driver to crack the bolt loose.
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by KelVarnson
I have had pretty good luck with using a Dremel, with a thin cutoff wheel, to cut a slot across the bolt. then you can do as Farmdad says, and use an impact driver to crack the bolt loose.
This gets my vote. Of course I have both of those tools. If you put the proper permatex and cleaned it well, it shouldn't leak missing one bolt but I would get it fixed soon.
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 08:27 PM
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Hey guys, thanks for the responses - I got it filled up and went for a test drive, no leaks yet. I plan to make an appt this week to get it fixed, I cringe at what they'll charge me.

I would have tried the slot idea, but the bolt head took some of the shaft with it when it sheared, so all I was left with was the EZ out idea (I got what looked like the equivalent from lowe's - Kobalt). I pulled and pushed and even used as long as a leverage bar as I could and still couldn't budge the bolt (at least I know the screw extractor is really strong!). Oh well.

On a good note, this time I replaced with Royal Purple and it seems, at least for now, that my shuddering going around turns has disappeared. But man I hate how I threw away this afternoon and evening at this project. Was supposed to be done way sooner! arg...
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 08:31 PM
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GC, if you were a little closer to my neck of the woods i'd do it for you. (have had too much practice pulling busted bolts of tractors and hay equipment) good luck
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 08:33 PM
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If its at the 9 or 3 o'clock position, or higher, I'll bet that it won't leak. My luck always has that thing happening at a lower position where its guarenteed to leak.
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 08:51 PM
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Have you thought about drilling it out, then extracting it? Take a bit that just fits inside the threads to keep it from walking, and drill it through just about all the way, then try the appropriate extractor. Or just drive it if it does not leak.
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:18 PM
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I see you are in sc near greenwood ? best way to get out buy left hand drill bit to put hole in and may come out with just that but then use extractor. if you are close to greenwood next time im up ill get it out for you if you need help call 478 952 8873 ill be gald to help.
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 09:27 PM
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I never understood why nobody puts a drain plug on the diff pan.
When I had the two F250s and it was time to change the diff oil, while the pan was off, I drilled a hole and then welded a nut to the inside. Run a bolt with a sealing washer in from the outside and you now have a drain plug.
No need to remove the cover ever again unless something breaks.
 
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I never understood why nobody puts a drain plug on the diff pan.
When I had the two F250s and it was time to change the diff oil, while the pan was off, I drilled a hole and then welded a nut to the inside. Run a bolt with a sealing washer in from the outside and you now have a drain plug.
No need to remove the cover ever again unless something breaks.
I like to pull the cover and inspect and clean out any sludge or what not. I used to play in the mud alot and its an old habit. And if that cover doesn't leak I wouldn't worry about that broken bolt till the next fluid change.
 
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
I like to pull the cover and inspect and clean out any sludge or what not. I used to play in the mud alot and its an old habit. And if that cover doesn't leak I wouldn't worry about that broken bolt till the next fluid change.
This is where my compusive oil changes come into play.
Any sludge building compounds first must be suspended in the solution.
I drain it out before it has a chance to deposit.
 
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Old 02-24-2008, 12:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Kwikkordead
I never understood why nobody puts a drain plug on the diff pan.
When I had the two F250s and it was time to change the diff oil, while the pan was off, I drilled a hole and then welded a nut to the inside. Run a bolt with a sealing washer in from the outside and you now have a drain plug.
No need to remove the cover ever again unless something breaks.
Good idea kwik. But what about the fill hole?
 
  #15  
Old 02-24-2008, 02:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Bird Dog
Good idea kwik. But what about the fill hole?
Fill hole is in the side of the casting. Unaffected by the new drain hole in the cover.
 


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