I have a Superchips programmer (I don't use the programming any more) using the diagnostics portion of it to read codes.

The truck starts just fine with no white smoke and runs normal, no miss or rough idle. The battery voltage reads low during the time the glow plugs are ingaged and then right back to normal after.

I would love to hear what you have done. I have tried most everything to troubleshoot with no results. We just moved to Tehachapi and my friend and Ford mechanic is back where we came from. He had a laptop to run full diagnostics to pin point the problem.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks again.

 

This is going to be a little long.

I asked about the code reader because my autoEnginuty will show the amperage going to each bank. My truck starts fine also and has no glow plug problems. I am sure of this because I have changed everything at least once and with a clamp on amp meter I show about 40 or 50 amps on each side.

Still I get a 1395 or sometimes 1396 and it will light the check engine light. If I let the glow plugs time out before starting it won't set the light. Really it doesn't set the light every time it throws the code but that just confuses things. As you probably know the glow plugs don't come on when the engine is warm and the WTS light has nothing to do with the glow plugs being on or off.

If you had a auto enginuty program it would be interesting to see if you had the same readings I have. When I turn the key on with a cold engine I usually show no amps. If I continue on and start the engine I usually show 40 or 59 amps on each side. If I then put the truck in gear and move it a llittle with the glow plugs on it will go to 200 or 300 amps and throw the code. Not always but very often.

Now I know it is not sending 200 or 200 amps to the glow plugs but I have checked with the clamp on amp meter and it is still flowing the regular 40 or 50 amps while showing 200 or 300 amps on the autoenginuity. Auto enginuity is just showing what the PCM is reading.

The PCM seems to determing amps by using the voltage drop across the shunt, at least from what I have read about shunts and amps. You might check the 3 small wires connected to the shunt and going to the pcm, not the larger wires going to the glow plugs, and make sure they have not fried their fusable links and all the connections are good.

On mine they are just fine so I will guess yours will be too.

So if the shunt determines amps by voltage drop it would seem that a intermitten bad ground would throw off the voltage reading causing a bad amp indication. What I am guessing is we have a bad ground somewhere from the pcm to the ground on the fender well.

I can look up the wire diagram and get the connection number and wire colors but that may take a little while.

Do you know your pcm code? Mine is a VCQ4. It would be interesting if we had the same pcm.

 

I will check my PCM code and get back to you. I haven't check the fusible links yet but that was my next task.

Mine is a 97 crew cab 2wd. I just had my HP oil pump worked on with all new hoses replaced. I am wondering if the mechanic might have cut a wire or pinched one and now it showing up.

I plan on reading the amps on each side just to check what is going on.

I am also going to trace the wiring on the fusible links to make sure they are good. I will also check all the grounds from the PCM.

I am going to change the GPR just because it has never been replaced. If thats not it I'll have a spare for the future.

If you find the wiring diagram and color code, please pass it on. If I find something out I'll let you know. In the mean time I am going to be using the block heater to aid starting, but it starts normal, just a Check engine light.

Thanks for all you insight.

 

Okay, I think I have fixed the problem. After betting my head against a wall I decided to just replace all the glow plugs since I have never changed them since it was new. When I opened up the passenger side valve cover I found the harness had insulation missing from the wires for two of the four glow plugs, so I decided to change all the harness'. Once the drivers side there were damaged wires as well both for glow plugs and injectors. One thing I notice after complete, my glow plugs cycle on and off like they are suppose too, they have never done that since I owned it. No "Check Engine Light" I started it about 5 times after driving it for a while and still no light. I sure hope that solves the problem. That wasn't cheap.

 

Well it was probably cheaper than the dealers GPM. Glad you got it fixed. We all learn something this way.

 

Did you ever get your fixed...Oh I also found that the ground strap from the firewall to the valve cover was really lose. That may have been the problem all along but did want to chance it so I replaced everything. I learned how easy but time consuming it was to change GP's but way cheaper then taking it to a dealer. I don't think I'll have to change them anytime soon...these should last another 15 yrs.

 

I will double check that ground; Thanks

 

Have you checked the voltage and amps coming from you alternator. I have noticed since I replaced everything that when I first start it up on a cold morning that my voltage meter is much lower then when it is warm. What I have started doing is once the truck starts up I run the idle up to about 1000 or 1200 and notice that the volt meter is much higher and the glow plugs cycle like they are suppose to. I don't have an clamp to read amp on my multi-tester so I can't tell if the amps are high enough. I plan on getting one in the near future.
Just a thought and observation.

Is your truck still doing the same thing?

Matt

 

On mine and I think all others like it the alternator doesn't come on until the the glow plugs go off. I thnk it is to protect the alternator. The voltage goes from 12.4 or so before key on and no glow plugs, to 11.5 or so with key on and the glow plugs on for like a minute or so cold, to 12 when they cut off, to 10.5 volts with the starter on and then a rise to 14 volts as the alternator comes on. If I start with the glow plugs on the voltage doesn't come up until the glow plugs go off.

I still think I have a bad ground somewhere.

 

Put Ford Factory glow plugs in when replacing. If you don't, your SES light will come on. Fords plugs work differently, and PCM will detect any differences.

 

I put Ford glow plugs in mine.

 

Several codes get thrown on mine I live in ca and my truck behaves like we live in Montana. Takes several seconds (10 or more) to get her to start coughing up the diesel and drink it. Started to stall while at idle, then stall while turning right or left, then didn't care and died cruising at 45. Error codes p0344- position sensor circuit intermittent

P0380- glow plug heater circuit A malfunction

P1396- glow plug circuit monitor fault bank 2

P1670-electronic feedback not detected

I replaced the cps ad still won't start cranks and white smoke
Any help guys?

 

Did the truck die and now you have the codes or was it having trouble starting but will run? Does it run somewhat but only hitting on one or two cylinders?

First thing I would do is hook it up to a charger and recharge the battery if low. Needs like 10.5 volts while cranking to start. You could be getting low trying to start it.

Right now the symptoms and codes seem to indicate more than one problem.

Quick check on the CPS is if the tack is showing and RPM or not.

What year is your truck?

 

Thanks for taking the time and responding. The truck died and I tand the codes not knowing that those codes get built up since last code clearing. (I'm new to this world) so I guess now I must get the animal started somehow and run for codes again. Right now it just cranks and doesn't catch and start. White smoke blows out like hell. The truck is a 2000 7.3

 

I assume you have a volt meter. You should have 12.2 or more at the battery. When you turn the key to run does the voltage drop to 11 or so for a minute or so; that is the glow plugs working. Light in the dash has no relationship to glow plugs being on or off.

You should have 10.5 or so volts while the starter is cranking or the PCM won't let the engine start.

Does the tack show rpm?

Try these and let us know what you get.