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91 f250 4X4 7.3 Trans Codes (how to pull)

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Old 02-07-2008, 10:41 AM
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91 f250 4X4 7.3 Trans Codes (how to pull)

Hello all,

I just bought this truck am trying to figure how to pull the codes off the E4OD. It is acting strange (OD intermittent with the tach) when it D it will stay in 3rd but you can downshift into 2nd. 1st won't engage. Any help would be appreciated.


Scott
 
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Old 02-07-2008, 12:50 PM
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If the tach and speedo have any problems they will put the trans into Limp Mode 2nd and reverse only.......... fix the tach.

A dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.

Check the wires where they exit the big nut on the oil filler housing , known to short out due to bare wire.....

Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too.

You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
 
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Old 02-07-2008, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PLC7.3
If the tach and speedo have any problems they will put the trans into Limp Mode 2nd and reverse only.......... fix the tach.

A dead tach sender should/would send the automatic trans into a "failure management mode" (limp mode) with harsh engagements and firm shift feel and an abnormal shift schedule. It has no effect on a manual trans only the Tach readings.

Check the wires where they exit the big nut on the oil filler housing , known to short out due to bare wire.....

Replace the tach sender on the oil fill housing a big 1" nut with 2 wires. Ford only part Engine RPM sensor E5TZ-17B384-A about $50. You can remove and clean it but usually changed later too.

You can test it too, hold it in the air away from ferrous metal, using an ohm meter lead on each wire you need DC resistance between 2000-3000 ohms.
I took it off, cleaned it, tested it. 2.5k between leads. still no tach. Any other ideas on the tach? can it still be the sensor even though it tested good?

S
 
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Old 02-08-2008, 01:53 PM
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Here is the skinny on what was causing this problem. After testing the tach sensor, and it not fixing the problem, we went to the next possible problem, the pcm relay. Whammo we got a winner!!! the relay was bad, causing the tach/tranny to go ape****. It cost me $55 for the sensor, and $15 for the relay. Thanks for your help

S
 
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Old 02-08-2008, 09:14 PM
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hi cbleguy,or someone else that knows, where is the pcm relay on the truck and what's it look like? and what sensor are you mentioning? just in case mine starts acting up. thanks norrm
 

Last edited by norm805; 02-08-2008 at 09:16 PM. Reason: add or someone else that knows
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Old 02-09-2008, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by norm805
hi cbleguy,or someone else that knows, where is the pcm relay on the truck and what's it look like? and what sensor are you mentioning? just in case mine starts acting up. thanks norrm
It is on the drivers side on the fender well. The sensor I tests and replaced is the tach/rpm sensor next to the oil fill tube towards the drivers side.

S
 
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