Correction as of sunday evening, I will be incommunicado.

 

Good luck at SERE. And thank you for what you're doing.

May you be as invisible as the wind and as visible as necessary.

 

I'm back from SERE!!!! I worked on the truck today. I replaced the glow plug on the passenger rear side, and it had no effect, there is still a short somewhere completing the circuit between the battery and the block.

I recieved a lot of the parts I got off of ebay before leaving, and I replaced the steering wheel (the horn and CC buttons were not working), gauge cluster. multi-function switch, and bulbs in the taillights and third brake light. Now all the lights on the truck are working, and the windshield wipers. The gauge cluster works, and the truck still starts. So here's the latest issues:

Still lopes/romps/rough idle, blue smoke at start up, engine temp light kicks on in the cabin, but gauge has it in the cold range at startup, and moves to normal eventually, all the while the eng temp light is on. After switching out the GPR, and the faulty glow plug I am at a loss as to what can cause the blue smoke. Here's a question though... the o-rings on the injectors for the 95 PSD... were they immune to the effects of ULSD, like in the 97, or do I need to replace those? If so, how do I remove the injectors? I had the V/C off, and I did not see anything too obvious. Since I have never done it before and Have yet to get a hold of the facotry service manual for the drivetrain, I am a bit nervous to mess with it without any guidance.

The blower motor does not spin up at all. I have a new in cab switch set up to install if need be, but does anyone have any ideas on the HVAC blower?

The stereo is still out. I will need to get a replacement eventually.

The windows are still stuck in the down position with duct tape and trash bags to keep out the weather. All the power window switches were rotted, and need to be replaced.

The steering is loose, but in an odd way, it will drive straight, and you will need to hold the wheel at a 45 deg angle to hold it straight, but once it starts to go the otherway, you need to rotate it 90 deg before you feel any resistance, and then hold it at a 45 deg in that direction to hold it straight, before it rolls back the other way. It's odd... any ideas here?

She's coming along.

 

Latest update. I replaced the fuel lifter pump, and found a restriction in the fuel return line in the process. So the idle has smoothed out. She still spits out blue/white smoke at start up. I have checked and rechecked the glow plug system, so I guess it is time for a new PCM... oh yay!

Found the presence of oil in the intake "y" when I removed it to get to the fuel pump... lemme guess... this is bad, but my question is... how bad is it?

I would love some input on the questions from my immediately previous post if yall have the time.

Thanks.

 

oil in the intake is normal due to the crank case vent being venting preturbo intake.

 

Interesting thread. I wish you the best of luck iasrap.

 

Hussler:
I think that confucious said that first! But....that was good.
Rog

 

I mentioned earlier that I tore apart one of the power window switches and found it was rotted out, and suspected that the window regulator motors would need to be replaced... Well on a hunch I got a replacement switch since I would need one eventually, and the driver side window went up first try. I tried the passenger, and no luck, then I looked at the wiring schematics. I need to have two switches to get it to work. No biggie though. So the power windows now work... YAY!

 

Latest update, both power windows are working now.

 

Good going.
What other electrical issues do you have left?

 

PLEASE HELP WITH CURRENT ISSUE #3 at bottom of the page if you have a moment.

Today's update. I spent most of the day working on the truck. Here is the good news:

1. Replaced ICP and she idles smooth.
2. Fixed the looseness in the power steering, it was just the nut and hex head bolt. <NOOB>
3. Found out the blower does work it is the resistor that is bad, will need to find a new one, but Autozone does not carry it, so I am off to ford tomorrow to look.
4. Info on power windows: It was the switch for the windows themselves that were bad, not the motors.
5. Replaced the Hot/Cold air cable and HVAC switches for the cab, HVAC system works now, minus the blower resistor. I got really lucky the A/C survived. Minor tip if you ever need to replace your Hot/Cold air cable, it is a lot easier to remove the module just behind the glove box and work with a 8mm wrench to get that bolt off, than to remove the whole dash as manuals suggest. You will be making 1/10 of a turn because of confined space, unless you have smaller hands than my gigantor ones, but you will still save time.

Current issues:
1. Still need to have the supports under driver seat re-welded, and the lower back support in the driver seat frame rewelded into the frame.
2. The turn signals are not working again, but I believe it is because I missed a bulb when I replaced them after checking the circuit.
3. I still spit out smoke when she's cold. This one is stumping me. I have checked all glow plugs, all read 1.2 ohms, I have replaced the Glow Plug Relay, and there is the usual drain on the battery at start up for the plugs. I do not know what is wrong. Could it be the fuel heater? Any help here?
4. Engine Temp light comes on in the dash, and I already replaced the engine temp switch on the engine block. I do not know what is causing it.
5. Still need to throw in new radio and diagnose the speakers around the cab.
6. She needs new tires and then she will be road worthy.

 

It seems that since the controller cannot properly see eng temp. it is dumping more fuel than needed.
I would suggest connecting it to a good scanner that would show you actual voltage from the gauges and verifying it against what it should be.
You might have corrosion somewhere alon the line that would trow off actual values and controller thinks that the temperature outside is more colder than it is actually is. There fore dumping more fuel.


3. I still spit out smoke when she's cold. This one is stumping me. I have checked all glow plugs, all read 1.2 ohms, I have replaced the Glow Plug Relay, and there is the usual drain on the battery at start up for the plugs. I do not know what is wrong. Could it be the fuel heater? Any help here?
4. Engine Temp light comes on in the dash, and I already replaced the engine temp switch on the engine block. I do not know what is causing it.

 

would a scanner from autozone, the 179.99 one be worth trying out?

 

There are three different temp sensors on the engine. There is one for the engine temp light, one for the temp gauge and the oil temp sensor which is the only one the PCM keeps track of.


which one did you replace?

Also the scanner at AZ probably won't work.

 

CURRENT ISSUE #3
I know you ohmed out the GP's but check the UVC plugs real close. Possibly try to ohm the GP's with current going thru the plug. Or ohm the plug itself. I guess what I am trying to say is the plugs may be the issue and not the GP's.

Just a thought. good luck and awesome thread. Thanx.