No GEM on these trucks.

iasrap is it the large battery cable going to the starter? if so you probably need a starter or the starter soleniod is still full of water.

 

TJ

I would think is an alt failure.
Did you notice that the alt was warm/hot?

Bill

 

It is the large cable from the relay to the starter.

The starter theory might make sense, because it didn't want to start once, as in the starter motor was not engaging, but that only happened once.

Only question on the starter, it is still hooked up to the terminal via the starter to battery cable, so shouldn't that ground it through the starter body and still give me that "beeeep?"

As for the alternator, how long would I need to hook it up to notice it getting warm?
As of right now the batteries have not been hooked up for 24 hrs.
When the alternator was completely disconnected I still recieved continuity between the + and the block. It was not until I disconnected the starter to relay cable that the "beeeeep" went away.

 

Now I am confused (sorry!) which wire you unhooked. There are two wires going to the starter. One small one and a larger battery cable the size of my finger. which one did you unhook tog et no more continuity?

 

The one on the starter relay that goes to the starter. However I just went out to probe again, and it wasn't the starter wire that mattered it was the ones under it. There are two sets of fusible link wires under the starter wire on the starter relay. I traced the wire that give me continuity to the fuse box under the hood. I am going to go back out to start pulling relays and test.

I am assuming I should not have continuity to the block from the underhood fuse box while the batteries are disconnected and the ignition is set to "off."

 

pulled position 19 maxi from the underhood fuse box and the beep went away it is a 40a maxi fuse. It is listed in my 97 F-250 Electric an Vacuum troubleshooting manual as main light switch headlamps.

 

In the diagram the next connection is the multi function switch.

The common theme seems to be the "multi function switch" for the following problems:

-turn signals not working
-wipers not working
-washer not working
-hazards not working.

Only thing that puzzles me is that the headlamps work, and will flip over to brights.

 

Oooo... ooo... Positions STD 7 and STD 6 also gave continuity with the block. These fuses were blown when I looked under the hood the first time. These are trailer stop and turn lamps... Seeing a pattern. Do not know what it means yet though... wish I were a bit more knowledgeable.

Again the multi-function switch is the common denominator in the wiring diagram.

 

So I think I am on my fifth straight post, but this is interesting.

-Position 22 Maxi: fuel line heater/200 amp generator voltage regulator/PCM power relay coil, glow plug controller also has continuity with the block
-Position 12 Diode: Current flows from fuse 22 to PCM power relay also have continuity with the block.

No idea that this means for me, but it might solve why I cannot get my glow plugs to fire up. Will keep you posted.

Question though: On a lark i went back to the starter relay, and found the little starter wire that goes to the solenoid (i dissmissed it the first time *noob*) had continuity with the block, I verified at the starter solenoid and on the starter body... sure enough "beeeep." What does this mean? It this the water in the solenoid?

 

Pulled off the starter, cleaned it, checked it re-attached it, not the starter... not the alternator... someone on another thread mentioned that if a glowplug goes it can short out the harness... I will check on that when I get back from training. I will be at SERE school for the next three weeks... joy!

 

Why is it that no one has questioned the fact that the computer has been under water for 30 mins.? I'm really surprized that it evan starts.

Did he ever pull any codes? He is using a meter that "Beeps" We should be getting the voltage reading rather than there is continuity.

Just my $0.02 for what it's worth.

Rog

 

I am not questioning the pcm cause he said it runs and not CEL unless he forces one. Also some meters make a sound when continuity exists. One thing is for sure this is gonna be a long fix!

 

Hint .. resolve simple issues first, brake lights... A complex problem is usually resolved one step at a time.

 

The computer is fine, the truck runs and is driveable, it just doesn't have functioning glow plugs, pumps clouds of white smoke because of that until it warms up, and has no lights except headlights. While it idles it lopes/romps, and does need a lot of work. Unfortunately as of sunday I should be incommunicado for three weeks while I go to SERE school, unless I messed up my paperwork and get delayed. I will not have another chance to work on her until the end of february. <SIGH>

 

put the truck in a vacuum chamber at 170F for 48 hours....then work on it...
boy that would make it easy would in't it???