Undriveable sputtering V10?
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Undriveable sputtering V10?
A friend has an F250 with about 110,000 miles on the V10, and suddenly the engine won't rev up. If you play with the throttle enough, eventually you can get it struggle up to around 4000 rpm's, where it will rev properly through the higher rpm band. But it's sputtering so bad down low it's completely undriveable.
It's doing this during both open and closed loops.
I initially suspected a fuel pressure issue, until I saw that it would handle the higher RPM's okay.
Driveability has never been one of my stronger area's, so any suggestions or experience you guys may have would be greatly appreciated.
Just found out the truck is a 1999.
Tom
It's doing this during both open and closed loops.
I initially suspected a fuel pressure issue, until I saw that it would handle the higher RPM's okay.
Driveability has never been one of my stronger area's, so any suggestions or experience you guys may have would be greatly appreciated.
Just found out the truck is a 1999.
Tom
Last edited by Potent68; Jan 29, 2008 at 04:03 PM.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
Likes: 22
From: Florida
My recommendtions are to do the following
- Inspect and if needed change the air filter
- Clean the MAF sensor
- Find out when the fuel filter was last changed if never...change it
- Check/Change the IAC (Idle Air Control)
- Check/Change the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor...do a search on here for those steps)
Those are my suggestions...I'm sure there will be more.
Good luck,
joe.
- Inspect and if needed change the air filter
- Clean the MAF sensor
- Find out when the fuel filter was last changed if never...change it
- Check/Change the IAC (Idle Air Control)
- Check/Change the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor...do a search on here for those steps)
Those are my suggestions...I'm sure there will be more.
Good luck,
joe.
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Seeing as how I'm working in Alaska and won't see the truck again for a week and a half I made plans to have it looked at by the dealer. I'll report back what they find out. Thanks for the suggestions.
Tom
Tom
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Florida
Originally Posted by Potent68
Seeing as how I'm working in Alaska and won't see the truck again for a week and a half I made plans to have it looked at by the dealer. I'll report back what they find out. Thanks for the suggestions.
Tom
Tom
joe.
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Sounds like there were a few problems.
First was a stuck diode in the alternator, completely draining the battery (so much apparently that jump starting it with my new dual generator/dual battery, LMM Duramax, wasn't enough to counter it.)
Second was FOUR bad coils.
They did the alternator, and were able to test drive the truck. He said it ran and revved great, until it warmed up, and started acting up. That's when he found the first two coils were bad. I told them to go ahead and test all of the others, and that's when they found the other 2. SO now the truck has 4 new coils, and new spark plugs, and I'm being told it runs like a top now.
FYI to anybody doing coils, their guy has taken to using something like Syl-Glide (a silicone lubricant you can get at Napa) to seal the coils and prevent water from getting in there. This was from the Ford dealer themselves.
Tom
First was a stuck diode in the alternator, completely draining the battery (so much apparently that jump starting it with my new dual generator/dual battery, LMM Duramax, wasn't enough to counter it.)
Second was FOUR bad coils.
They did the alternator, and were able to test drive the truck. He said it ran and revved great, until it warmed up, and started acting up. That's when he found the first two coils were bad. I told them to go ahead and test all of the others, and that's when they found the other 2. SO now the truck has 4 new coils, and new spark plugs, and I'm being told it runs like a top now.
FYI to anybody doing coils, their guy has taken to using something like Syl-Glide (a silicone lubricant you can get at Napa) to seal the coils and prevent water from getting in there. This was from the Ford dealer themselves.
Tom
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Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
Originally Posted by Potent68
FYI to anybody doing coils, their guy has taken to using something like Syl-Glide (a silicone lubricant you can get at Napa) to seal the coils and prevent water from getting in there. This was from the Ford dealer themselves.
Tom
Tom
Good to hear the truck is fixed.
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From: Albuquerque
Originally Posted by biz4two
Could also be spark plugs...and/or one or more COP (coil on plug). Looking forward to what the dealer finds...
Originally Posted by Potent68
Second was FOUR bad coils.
That's when he found the first two coils were bad. I told them to go ahead and test all of the others, and that's when they found the other 2. SO now the truck has 4 new coils, and new spark plugs, and I'm being told it runs like a top now.
Tom
That's when he found the first two coils were bad. I told them to go ahead and test all of the others, and that's when they found the other 2. SO now the truck has 4 new coils, and new spark plugs, and I'm being told it runs like a top now.
Tom
Thanks for reporting back...and keeping us FTE folk informed!
biz
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I have a 2001 F-250 Super Duty (5.4 L gas) with about 127,000 miles on it. I havent driven mine in about 2 weeks. Yesterday I went to take it out for the day. My truck sounding like it was working on 7 cylinders. Granted it had sat for 2 weeks without starting, I thought maybe it was just cold. It was in the teens this morning, and thought maybe it was the gas (full tank) or filter. My truck had a strange smell from driving it about 1.5 miles from my house to the local garage with shaking and sputtering. No codes or check engine soon light came on either. If anyone can provide more info, that would be great.
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Pa
The smell is probably fuel from the misfiring cylinder. Moisture could have gotten into a COP boot and caused a misfire.
The truck should be throwing a code though.
Water in the gas could be a concern as well. The ethanol has a tendency to attract moisture.(Hydroscopic)
The truck should be throwing a code though.
Water in the gas could be a concern as well. The ethanol has a tendency to attract moisture.(Hydroscopic)
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I think when it comes to the COPs, and a Ford dealer service department, the manual just says "change COP" - it doesn't say to take off the boot and clean it or anything else. Just replace it. It's not worth the tech's time to figure it out - cheaper to throw a COP at it - especially under warranty. Now, there isn't a seperate manual for warranty vs. customer-paid service, so guess what you get? That's right, four brand-new COPs because they probably got wet or corroded the spring.
So, you probably had water or something in there, they kept finding misfires, the next line in the diag chart says "change COP" ... and you wind up with four new ones.
Anyway...
One thing about the 2-valvers, lots of the specs for MAF, misfires, etc, do not light the check-engine light, nor do misfires cause the injector to stop firing like it does for passenger cars.
So, you probably had water or something in there, they kept finding misfires, the next line in the diag chart says "change COP" ... and you wind up with four new ones.
Anyway...
One thing about the 2-valvers, lots of the specs for MAF, misfires, etc, do not light the check-engine light, nor do misfires cause the injector to stop firing like it does for passenger cars.
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