i just tought i would post up the progress of my swap so far
the fenders are just resting in place but when the air is out it will
lay the running boards on the ground after i get the back bagged

 

Looks good. Are you gonna shorten the bed or just move the rear fenders forward. Of course, If you have to cut the frame to lower it, you could just move the axle back.
I've decided to just move my fenders, but your frame looks shorter than mine.

I found that mounting the radiator (from the Ranger) and front clip was the most difficult. I was able to splice the Ranger core support into the 47 sheet metal. Any luck doing the same with the s10? The frame I used was too tall to use the factory radiator support. Because yours is getting lowered I imagine you'll have the same problem.

Keep us updated. I'd like to see some pics of the body mounts (just for future reference, in case I find a free S10 or sumthin').

Ive got another thirty days of classes before I get to work on mine again. It's killing me. I'll try to get some more pics in the gallery when I get back to it.

 

i think i am just going to move the fenders foward and add a little to the frame to meet up with the back of the bed
i am also going to have to lengthen the front of the frame becaust the guy i got it from cut off the mounts so i will just mount those lower (almost like zing the frame) so i can use the stock 51 rad support and mount the sheet metal off that
the front of the cab will be mounted right to the frame using the stock holes in the cab and in the rear i probable just go through the floor to mounts that were welded to the frame when i got it
good luck with yours and now it is your trun to show off your work i might be getting my hands on a body dropped ranger frame so i am allready getting ideas on another truck

 

For the rear cab mounts on my truck I added a piece of 3/4 x 1 1/2 rectangular tubing that goes all the way across the frame. It allowed me to use the existing holes in both the frame and the cab. I just had to add some spacers to the Ranger body bushings to raise them up a bit in the front. I'm thinking of adding another piece of the tubing in the middle under the seat mounts for strength since my truck will be four wheel drive and I sometimes have trouble keeping all four wheels on the ground.

My frame is also a few inches short in the back, but it's straight there so no problem adding more for the bumper to bolt to.

I still need to finish the hidden hinges for the doors, but right after that i'll be bolting the cab down for the last time so I can start hooking everything back up. The goal is to have it at least drivable by the end of the summer. I at least want to be able to move it around the yard under its own power.

I'll get pics up as soon as I start on it again.

 

Oldskoolford.
My Grandson and I are putting a '47 pickup sheet metal on a chevy s10 chassis. Everything everyone has said is true and then some. Not for the faint of heart to be sure. I don't know if you have seen a stripped down s10 frame or not, but---right behind the front wheels the frame drops down and gets 'bow-legged'. These sections will protrude from under your body. The fenders may cover it, but it looks horrid. I figured a way to make cuts just so and swap the cut-out pieces side for side, that took care of most of it, but not all. I have since read and seen pics of two other methods where the offending sections were cut out and replaced with other parts?? But the degree of difficulty increases along with the risks of getting the frame out of square etc.
I communicated with FIX earlier on and I agree that in some respects the Ranger is a better base for it, but it too would not be without it's complications as FIX said earlier. I too bought a ranger and we stripped it down, but in the end, for various reasons, we used (are using) the 's10. We are two years into this and counting. My Health has been a handicap too, but parts prices etc. are a truer than life problem!!!! In the beginning it sounded like 'piece of cake', take a running truck, tear off the sheet metal, put on a NICE '47 ford cab, be at the cruiz-ins fast. HAHHAAAAA. Welcome to the real world. Had to strip the frame down to metal, a few layers under rust, then paint, start replacing old-worn parts with new, paint, etc. etc. But don't let me discourage you please! It's given my Grandson and I something special to share and a world of fun and satisfaction along with the frustrations. Best of Luck to you. Perley

 

And yet, Still no gallery?
Just kidding.

I'm glad to hear it's still in the works. I'm welding in those hidden hinges on mine within the next couple of weeks, and moving the cab mounts back forward of the cab. (Too much wiggle when mounted under the floor pans). Hopefully, this will be the summer that it gets back on the road. I don't even care if it's painted. I just want to drive the thing a couple of times before I have to put it up for the winter.

 

That's true for sooo many projects.

 

Some pics of my 40 on S10 frame, and where I modded to fit the frame. It fits close to the frame so I'll probably have to put some bolts through to keep from rattling and squeaking. I moved the rear spring hangers forward about six inches if I remember. More pics in my gallery

the 47 cab size is the same as the 40.

 

I like the way you've cut the hood. It looks like you removed the latch too. How do you plan to keep it closed? That's gonna be a great looking truck.

 

Thanks Fix

I have a hood latch from a VW beetle, small and cable operated.

 

shortyforty one what the year of your s10 frame for your 1940's ford??and where you buy your rear fender there'r in steal?? they look new

 

all year s10's are basically the same little differences in where the body and bed mounts are which will probably be cut off the more important would be which model to get between a reg cab short bed, reg cab long bed, or ext cab short bed they all have different wheel basses so you would have to find which is closes to your original wheel base for the ford

 

S10 frame is a '84. The running boards and rear fenders are fiberglass from BeBops. There were some fitment issues but that happens with fiberglass parts that are still 'green'. Sometimes you have to use a heat gun in places to get the shape right to line up mounting holes.

 

yeah in my experience, I enjoy the process of the build. seems like whenever I get something finished, its like "alright! time to reap the reward! drive it use it!" then next thing I know...bored now...sell it...start a different one!
There short answers to what you want to accomplish, but that answer is big money! I don't have it...
A retired friend of mine did a truck like mine from crap to almost showtruck
in only 5 MONTHS!! he had $24,000 + - in receipts, did little of the work himself, then put it up for sale...sold it for $18,000...and it took forever to get it sold...I told him the next time he wants to throw away money, come and throw it at me! I mean he has the money and it doesn't phase him one bit, but $6000 is a LOT of money to just give away!
My point is....I am gonna shut up now!
I love the input from everyone...it is truely helpful when working on these projects!

there is another member "hellfirejim" he has a '50 bonusbuilt truck on an s-10 frame. don't know if he has any good info for ya but...