So when they call it a 'Pinto/Mustang' kit, what are they talking about? I have to admit, their marketing team isn't doing them any favors by using the word 'Pinto'. I love the price, and the bolt-in ability, but for $500 or so more I could go with the other bolt-in or bite the bullet and get a weld-in option.

With all the respect to the Jag fans out there, I don't want to have to mess with a used front end. That is a big chance to take, especially when components could be shot (and you could spend all your money just rebuilding it). I'm tired, I'm lazy....call me whatever you want, I just want a proven 'new' solution that will work in my truck.

I will tell you that I am now leaning towards the weld-in option and having a professional do it. I've already got it almost stripped down to just the frame anyway, and hauling it to a welding shop wouldn't take much....I would just have to find a shop that knew what they were doing (or had a good welder that wouldn't jimmy-rig the setup....which is my greatest fear).

Heck, I guess the best option would be to take an adult education class in welding (those high school welding days are too far behind me) and get proficient enought to do the job myself.....then there wouldn't be anybody to blame.

Thanks again for everyone's comments! If anyone has a suggestion for the weld-in, post it here.

Thanks!

 

Any opinions on the TCI MII? Just googling shows this one for pretty cheap...makes me suspicious.

http://www.streetrodparts.tv/tci_mustangII.htm

 

Make sure that whatever "MII style" is used has tubular A frames top and bottom and at least 11" disks. Don't use any that uses the stamped single pivot lower control arm with the trailing strut or the original 9" brakes.

 

Blue50F-1 No; I have not driven it. Soon I hope. Any time your in my area just PM or e-mail and come on by. More than Welcome.

 

That one from the link above (the suspicious one) says it has tubular A frames...any opinions on that setup?

 

That TCI kit is fine. It is cheaper because it is "as assembled" there has been no cleanup of welds, edges, corners, painting, etc. that you pay for in other kits.

 

Now cleanup I can do! I can run a grinder and a sander like a madman!

Thanks for that info, I might have been a little shocked if I ordered it and it came in 'rough'.

Any other kits out there that people might suggest?

 

MT50, That is a great value, and I see a small note on the website that caught my eye, it says they are also a rod shop and will help you with questions on the install. This is an added bonus and 1 more good reason to buy from them, plus the free shipping is really great.
Jon

 

Just a quick question for you all; my '50 Ford is a frankenford and has a 283 Chevy V8 (boo, hiss...I know). The engine has a modified engine mount kit on it (like that when I bought it) and uses the existing flathead engine mount crossmember. Reading the instructions on the installation of the IFS, it looks like they want you to remove the engine mount crossmember. I would love to keep the setup, but I also see that these IFS setups sometimes come (as an option) with engine mounts to your particular application. How important is it to remove the old engine crossmember? Will it interfere with the new IFS?

...also, everyone here is great and a wonderful resource. Thank you!

 

Back when I researched MII front ends (before the Jag) I had decided on either TCI or Heidts. I liked what Heidts had to say in their catalog about proper geometry (anti dive, bump steer etc) and was likely going to buy their kit. Get their catalog, good info. I've noticed that many cheaper brands buy their tubular a arms from Heidts, and just build crossmembers. Hmmm. AFA the Pinto/MII name, it's just an industry standard that all the companies build to, there aren't any Ford parts in them anymore. Ididit builds steering columns to the GM standard, no GM parts used, Currie builds 9" ford rear ends with no ford parts.

 

50, no problem with the engine choice, it is what it is. However, even though you can order the mounts for both brands of engines when you order an Mii kit, it is only good if you are at the frame up build stage. Since you have an engine in place, it would be best to add your eng mounts after the kit is installed so that you can avoid re-positioning the linkages,tranny cross member,driveshaft,radiator and so forth. You may need to remove the mount you now have. The boxing plates normally go past the area where the mounts may be at now. Mine would be right behind the cross member if I were putting one in, but all are a bit different.
Also, it would be a lot easier to help if we could see pics of your set up as it is now, but I see that you have not set up your gallery yet. Pics are such a plus in threads like this, so....get on it man.
Jon

 

I've got my gallery up and running now. I've got some shots in there of the small block Chevy motor using those modification motor mounts. I don't think I could get away with using them as it looks like the IFS will need to occupy the same space. Take a gander and let me know what you think.

 

Nice truck! cool gallery

 

You could always put in a universal tubular motor mount assmbly for the CSB. They have a prebent tube center with the mounts attached and slip over ends with flanges you bolt to the frame. You can cut the center section for length as well as offsetting the engine if you wish. Run a bolt or weld bead to attach the ends to the center after installation. The CSB mount will end up about in the center of the front (shallow) portion of the oil pan so should be well back from the IFS crossmember. Mid Fifty sells these mounts for various engines.

 

That is a very nice truck! Cannot beat that high and dry climate of Montana. The original motor mount could stay with the Jag IFS. I removed mine when I put the Jag in because I wanted to box the front of the frame and did not want to box around them. If you take a look at my gallery and a few others that have done the Jag IFS I think that you can see for yourself. Boxing the frame for an IFS helps with the functioning of the IFS but is not a must. I had a discussion with an old timer a while ago that was a very experience drag chassis builder and he did several Jag installations without boxing. Look at the galleries of rhopper and rusty50f1.