Overdrive fuse blown
#1
#3
Originally Posted by antony25
You may have a bad shifter. The wires inside can short.
Usually just takes some electrical tape and a careful re-positioning of the little harness.
Steve
#4
#5
Originally Posted by wilburn
I can't remove the shroud without removing the ignition switch. How do I remove it? I pushed the red button on the top of the switch with the key in off position and in aux. position, but it would not come out. HELP!!!
2. Remove lower shroud. (Makes #4 easier if you do this first).
3. Insert key into cylinder and turn to RUN position.
4. Use a pointed tool (punch or small Phillips screwdriver) to push the release pin in and pull the whole lock cylinder out. The pin is on the bottom of the housing that holds the lock cylinder.
5. Remove tilt lever if present by unscrewing it.
6. Remove upper shroud. Pull gearshift lever down to 1st if needed.
Steve
#6
I got the switch out, removed the shroud, and found the grounded wire. Electrical tape did it. I now have automatic headlights, automatic door locks, overdrive, and a beltminder program. THANKS TO YOU GUYS!!! Thanks, Steve, for your help. would have hunted for that wire for months and never found it. I'm not an expert on autos, as you see, but if I can help you ever with antique clocks, let me know. That's my hobby. THANKS, AGAIN
WOW
WOW
#7
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#8
Exactly, remember that the spot in the wiring that needs mended is at the point where they exit the shift handle. The wire then runs along some plastic tabs to a switch behind the dash above the column. There is a plug there, you'll need to pull up some slack. Unhook it from the column and tug it down where you can get to the plug enough to unplug it. Its buried in there very inconveniently.
Then pop the cap from the switch and draw the wires out through the handle just enough to work with the bad spot. Tin your wires, solder back, tape. Only use enough tape to cover the wire or it won't fit through the handle when you pull them back through. {you can use an ohm meter to test switch function new too, the switch will go from 0-ohm up to some other higher number.} This means it its working.
You should lube the wires when you pull them back in to insure you don't yank your wired apart pulling them back in. Then reconnect. Clean out your ignition hole before you try to insert the ignition. You might have some broken plastic in there from the tabs when you took it apart. Make sure the front edge ground tab is still tight against the ignition hole, use tape to hold it if its loose, it'll make your alarm go nuts if you don't get it right.
If it works, the light is on the handle, not the dash.
Hope this helps the next guy.
Then pop the cap from the switch and draw the wires out through the handle just enough to work with the bad spot. Tin your wires, solder back, tape. Only use enough tape to cover the wire or it won't fit through the handle when you pull them back through. {you can use an ohm meter to test switch function new too, the switch will go from 0-ohm up to some other higher number.} This means it its working.
You should lube the wires when you pull them back in to insure you don't yank your wired apart pulling them back in. Then reconnect. Clean out your ignition hole before you try to insert the ignition. You might have some broken plastic in there from the tabs when you took it apart. Make sure the front edge ground tab is still tight against the ignition hole, use tape to hold it if its loose, it'll make your alarm go nuts if you don't get it right.
If it works, the light is on the handle, not the dash.
Hope this helps the next guy.
#9
2003 F150 #29, 5 amp fuse problem
Run all pin point checks on wires, disconnected the overdrive wire and pulled it through the shifter housing and inspected each of the three wires. Found no evidence of bare wires. We even pulled back the shrink wrap to the location that the wires come through the shifter at the bottom and still no sign of wear. Cannot get the fuse to blow. Even tore door down to check on mirror wires as well. All; functions are normal, all pinpoints are normal.
#10
#11
Thanks for the directions on this fix! As soon as I opened it up, I found the bare wire that runs up the shifter stem! I wrapped it with some electrical tape, replaced the fuse, reattached the negative battery cable and checked it. Everything back to working! Now to find someone that can help me figure out why the keypad will lock the doors but not open it.
Thanks again!!!
Thanks again!!!
#13
What does "no gas pedal" mean? Is it missing from the truck's cab?