I am installing a remote start on my truck. I hit a roadblock and can't seem to find the wire for the "factory alarm disarm". It is supposed to be at the drivers side kick panel and be dark green/purple. I pulled the panel and found three connectors with it seems every other color combination under the rainbow. Could someone narrow down which connector I should look in and if there is a color difference.

 

Do you have a factory alarm? If not then your not going to find it.

 

This is a good sit and has helped me a few times. Try it, you might find the alarm wiring help you need. http://www.the12volt.com/

 

My truck just has the basic Theft light on the dash. Nothing beyond that for an alarm system. I checked out the 12volt.com site and it tells me the same thing. The factory alarm disarm is the same dark green/purple wire at the drivers kick panel. The remote start I am trying to install is from Bulldog Security and their tech. help is less than satisfactory. They apparently are changing ownership and some phone numbers and email listed on old packaging no longer work.

 

Two specific questions:

1) What is the EXACT Bulldog model?

2) Is your truck PATS equipped? (Chip in key). If not, you have no factory alarm to disable. If you do, you will need a PATS bypass module, and an extra programmed key.

Steve

 

Never mind about the extra info..

The DG/P wire comes from the door lock switch(es) and tells the RAP that the door key cylinder has been turned.

Look in the bundle of wires that comes out of the driver's door for this one. It will be in that section. Otherwise, you can pick it up at the RAP module (up above the GEM).

Steve

 

I think I found it. It appears that on one side of the square plug, the wire appears smaller guage. It is dark green and more red than purple. On the back side of the plug at the same position, it is larger guage and dark green with more what I would call purple. It shouldn't be an issure to connect to the front side where it is more accessible should it? I reread the Bulldog instruction manual again and basically it says if the horn beeps when you hit the remote twice, you need to connect to the wire.

 

That signal line should "ground" when the door key cylinder is turned to the UNLOCK position. It signals the RAP that a valid disarm (unlock) is taking place.

Anyplace on the signal line would be fine, the signal is the same. Use whatever point offers you a convenient and secure access point.

Steve

 

So if I want to check to make sure I have the right wire. It will have 12V on constant and then nothing when the key is turned?

 

Probably. The non-activated state may be any value other than 0 volts depending on the design of the circuit (which is not documented in the drawings). Just look for that positively identified transition to ground level when the key is turned in the door lock.

Steve

 

Well...I must have messed something up. First off, the third key that I bought to go with the system couldn't be programmed. The theft light kept flashing fast when it was in. Next, the battery, airbag and overdrive light in the shifter flash when I lock or unlock the doors with the remote. When I try to remote start, the same lights flash, the control box buzzes a couple of times and then nothing. The wire that I used came out of what I think was the RAP module. It was white and up high under the cowl. At the end of the part number, it said RAP. That wire was not in the lower harness coming out of the door. I guess I will call the tech support at the company tomorrow.

 

I suggest you leave that wire unhooked, I don’t believe it’s necessary because you don’t have an alarm. I actually don’t even think it’s there to be found, so your tapping into the wrong wire.

 

Sigh....

Yeah, you do that.

 

Update on the install....I emailed tech support because their phone lines never get through. I reprogrammed the unit by turning my key from off to run seven or eight times. Then when I tried again, the remote start control box did nothing but click and flash the park lights. I called another number I found online and actually got a person. We did a couple of things with a jumper to 12V and he said either the control or remote is bad. I returned it to the store where I bought it and got a different one. Came home and installed it and guess what, all good. The next step with it is to figure out the door lock wires so I can use my factory keyless entry remote to start it.