Sho is quiet around here...
#1
Sho is quiet around here...
So, with my week in time-out, I had more time to read other sites, do some homework, hit the library for books that have the '65 model year specs.
I did fart around with the T-Bird engine a little. I tried sticking a feeler gauge between a couple connecting rod big ends. The biggest I could stuff in there was a .014". I pulled one rod cap to see how that looked: There was still babbit on the bearing WOO-HOO! On the back it said "STD". The crank looked real good, nice and smooth. I played around with some plastigauge an old timer gave to me, came up with .0015" on the connecting rod. When I brought the heads home I set a straight edge across the valve tips and went to town with the feeler gauge, .010 was the fattest I could wedge on one head, .015 on the other. The valve margins sit tall and proud compared to the D2 heads that were on the truck when I bought it. I always get stuff that's worn to the nub, so I'm kinda psyched about this engine. I think someone rebuilt the engine and parked it because of an intake leaking coolant. I'll just have to spend some $$$ on crack detection and pressure testing.
One of the things I really need to look at is the compression ratio on this engine. The "book" says CR for a 1965 390 with 4V intake is 10.1:1. Sounds about right, my '64 T-Bird ran on premium fuel. This is going in a 4200 lb (so far) truck that will be mostly DD, some offroad play, and some work. At this time I have 31s on the truck. They were new when I had to park the beast, so that will be my primary tire size. I do have some 33s I can throw on for a trail ride, although 35s would be nice in the distant future. With 3.55 gears my 60 MPH cruise with 31's is calculated at 2300 RPM, with 33's it is 2168 RPM, with 35s it is 2044 RPM. I'm kinda in the basement with these gears and taller tires.
I poked around the KB-Silvolite site read up their recomendations on cylinder pressure. I'm kinda curious now, is the C4 head considered an open chamber, or a quench chamber? A spot check with a depth gauge put my piston .015" in the hole at TDC. So I'm wondering how much overlap I'll need, and what kind of DCR I should target.
Rob McQuarie has a customer's unused cam and lifters for sale, he lists specs identical to Survival's SH7204 cam: http://survivalmotorsports.com/FordBBcams.html
I don't know if that will bleed off enough pressure, I need to buck-up and do more homework.
You guys are welcome to throw in your two cents, post links that may have helpful info, or just give me crap, it's good to be home. LOL
BTW, I live 6000 feet above sea level. If I decide to go play, I can be at 12,000 feet within the hour.
I did fart around with the T-Bird engine a little. I tried sticking a feeler gauge between a couple connecting rod big ends. The biggest I could stuff in there was a .014". I pulled one rod cap to see how that looked: There was still babbit on the bearing WOO-HOO! On the back it said "STD". The crank looked real good, nice and smooth. I played around with some plastigauge an old timer gave to me, came up with .0015" on the connecting rod. When I brought the heads home I set a straight edge across the valve tips and went to town with the feeler gauge, .010 was the fattest I could wedge on one head, .015 on the other. The valve margins sit tall and proud compared to the D2 heads that were on the truck when I bought it. I always get stuff that's worn to the nub, so I'm kinda psyched about this engine. I think someone rebuilt the engine and parked it because of an intake leaking coolant. I'll just have to spend some $$$ on crack detection and pressure testing.
One of the things I really need to look at is the compression ratio on this engine. The "book" says CR for a 1965 390 with 4V intake is 10.1:1. Sounds about right, my '64 T-Bird ran on premium fuel. This is going in a 4200 lb (so far) truck that will be mostly DD, some offroad play, and some work. At this time I have 31s on the truck. They were new when I had to park the beast, so that will be my primary tire size. I do have some 33s I can throw on for a trail ride, although 35s would be nice in the distant future. With 3.55 gears my 60 MPH cruise with 31's is calculated at 2300 RPM, with 33's it is 2168 RPM, with 35s it is 2044 RPM. I'm kinda in the basement with these gears and taller tires.
I poked around the KB-Silvolite site read up their recomendations on cylinder pressure. I'm kinda curious now, is the C4 head considered an open chamber, or a quench chamber? A spot check with a depth gauge put my piston .015" in the hole at TDC. So I'm wondering how much overlap I'll need, and what kind of DCR I should target.
Rob McQuarie has a customer's unused cam and lifters for sale, he lists specs identical to Survival's SH7204 cam: http://survivalmotorsports.com/FordBBcams.html
I don't know if that will bleed off enough pressure, I need to buck-up and do more homework.
You guys are welcome to throw in your two cents, post links that may have helpful info, or just give me crap, it's good to be home. LOL
BTW, I live 6000 feet above sea level. If I decide to go play, I can be at 12,000 feet within the hour.
#2
#3
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
See what happens when you get off these damn confuser's..you can actually get something done..LOL.. And Welcome Back !!!
I havent had a chance to look at the cam specs, but 10-1 on 91 octane is a bit much IMHO without some bleed off with Iron heads... But some get away with running even more? Was the engine put back together with steel shim gaslets or Fel-Pro blues? at .041" crush?
RJ
I havent had a chance to look at the cam specs, but 10-1 on 91 octane is a bit much IMHO without some bleed off with Iron heads... But some get away with running even more? Was the engine put back together with steel shim gaslets or Fel-Pro blues? at .041" crush?
RJ
#5
LOL I'll have to agree Russ!
The head gaskets were definitely composition type gaskets.
From what I've been reading there are a few tweaky things working for me to drop the cylinder pressure: Altitude, small carb, cam timing, but that's stuff for later. It's kinda like roofing the house before the foundation is poured. So I really want to "larn up" this quench and cylinder pressure stuff. In the mean time I still need to keep measuring what I have to see what I really have. That 10:1 CR is what the books say, not what I have been able to measure and calculate. LOL
So is the C4AE-G chamber "open" or "quench"? Or should I go bug Shoe??? From what I'm reading I'll want to make that consideration in my DCR.
http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=36
Edit: Wes, at the moment it's a manual, but there is a C-6 in my future...it's even on the garage floor. LOL
The head gaskets were definitely composition type gaskets.
From what I've been reading there are a few tweaky things working for me to drop the cylinder pressure: Altitude, small carb, cam timing, but that's stuff for later. It's kinda like roofing the house before the foundation is poured. So I really want to "larn up" this quench and cylinder pressure stuff. In the mean time I still need to keep measuring what I have to see what I really have. That 10:1 CR is what the books say, not what I have been able to measure and calculate. LOL
So is the C4AE-G chamber "open" or "quench"? Or should I go bug Shoe??? From what I'm reading I'll want to make that consideration in my DCR.
http://kb-silvolite.com/article.php?action=read&A_id=36
Edit: Wes, at the moment it's a manual, but there is a C-6 in my future...it's even on the garage floor. LOL
#7
I have pretty much the exact cam in the green beast.. 204 484/517 112 Clevite get up .. cant complain. But that is in a truck motor (66-352) so? I will say the low end grunt is sick compared to the stock setup, but that was minus#7 due to the burnt exh valve so ? My guess is the CR on this thing was like 9.5:1 or less and the new pistons had valve reliefs to boot, maybe 9:1 now ? wish I new..
Trending Topics
#8
While were on this >>>
Were the 390 car and truck engine the same basically aside of piston and cam setups or ? Just wondering as it's getting time to buy the kit for this Merc 390 and it will go in a truck so ? When I look at alot of kits they don't seem to spec car or truck, just year specific.. which is puzzling as well.
#9
#10
Originally Posted by Redmanbob
Were the 390 car and truck engine the same basically aside of piston and cam setups or ? Just wondering as it's getting time to buy the kit for this Merc 390 and it will go in a truck so ? When I look at alot of kits they don't seem to spec car or truck, just year specific.. which is puzzling as well.
In the old car Chilton's, the big distinctions were between the 2V and 4V engines. The 4Vs had higher listed compression ratios. That's probably part of why chebbie converts are always on a quest for 4V heads when they come here. LOL
I found a couple pages with FE specs. I think some of that info is not exactly complete or correct, but the charts do give an idea of what little things made the engines different. Hopefully none of these pages are on "the list" here:
http://www.mercurystuff.com/fe-engine-specs.html
Woody's Fairlane site has a bunch of FE specs as well:
http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/
I'll see what I can dig up this week Bobby.
Wes, LOL send me an email at the addy in my signature.
#11
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Smith Mountain Lake, VA
Posts: 6,461
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by Ford428CJ
Glade to see all the characters back here! If they would have booted you guys off for good.......I wouldn't show back here ever again!!!!! NO Joke...... This is the only reason why I am here is because of you guys! THATS IT! LOL I'm done now LOL
Hey Wes, Glad to see your Back !!! LOL
RJ
#12
Originally Posted by Redmanbob
... it's getting time to buy the kit for this Merc 390 and it will go in a truck so ? When I look at alot of kits they don't seem to spec car or truck, just year specific.. which is puzzling as well.
Hey Hyp, give Rob McQ a call with your details and desires, he will put together what you need. If you have a chance to get over to the shop, he will talk and talk to you all you want.
--Mike
#14
Hypoid------here's one that worked for me in my 68 Merc's 390-- stock 10.25 to 1 compression (.042 gaskets in place if the stock steel shims lowered it a 1/4 point from the stock 10.5 to 1) C8AE-H heads, Crane 272 degree Energizer cam (272/272 advertised duration) Stock 68 points distributor, Pertronix "I" unit. Base timing set at 12*BTDC. Ran fine with no pinging on 89 octane here in south Louisiana. Idles like a stocker, just a hint of lope when cold. Pulls from idle to 6500. The Merc weighed 4200 lbs, the C-6 had never been touched. Rear was changed to 3.70's from the 2.75's. Ran the 1/4 in 14 seconds at about 96-97 mph.
#15
Originally Posted by Mike G
Hey Hyp, give Rob McQ a call with your details and desires, he will put together what you need. If you have a chance to get over to the shop, he will talk and talk to you all you want.
--Mike
--Mike
I've only heard good things about Rob, not much, but only good. I did email Rob, he responded the next day with info that I requested. He also quoted prices for new springs and the overhaul set I would need.
One of the straightline guys at RMFTC recommends MPG heads.
They all look expensive to me, but I will need to farm out services to someone. LOL
Buck, I hoping to just freshen up this engine. I initially pulled the heads for Bobby, wound up buying the short block. So if this Sow's ear turns in to a silk purse...It's all Redmanbob's fault!!! LOL
Interesting comments on the cams, makes me wonder what I really have on that stand.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
riverguideguy
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
26
06-18-2013 05:02 PM
nothercrash
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
1
10-11-2010 12:45 AM
Dialtone
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
5
10-24-2009 07:31 PM
Franken-Truck
Big Block V8 - 385 Series (6.1/370, 7.0/429, 7.5/460)
6
07-02-2006 08:06 PM