AWD Hub assembly
AWD Hub assembly
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
Welcome 96AWD, 
170>210 lbs/ft
don't remember exact size from my last change but about 18mm seems close
use a deep 6 point impact socket to keep from turning off corners
nuts are one time use, common replacement part at auto parts store.
the CV shaft joints are probably shot also if original with same miles as hub
worn loose cv joints usually take out the hub bearings
most don't have a 3/4" drive torque wrench to 300 lb/ft
what works is 1/2" flex bar 18" long, put 150 lb person with one foot on end
approx 225 lbs/ft torque
170>210 lbs/ft
don't remember exact size from my last change but about 18mm seems close
use a deep 6 point impact socket to keep from turning off corners
nuts are one time use, common replacement part at auto parts store.
the CV shaft joints are probably shot also if original with same miles as hub
worn loose cv joints usually take out the hub bearings
most don't have a 3/4" drive torque wrench to 300 lb/ft
what works is 1/2" flex bar 18" long, put 150 lb person with one foot on end
approx 225 lbs/ft torque
Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 3,818
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I believe it is a 30mm socket, also available at most parts stores.
Originally installed nuts had threadlocker liberally applied, making removal tough. You can mildly heat the nuts with a propane torch to soften the threadlocker to make it easier to back off the nuts.
Harbor Fright sells an inexpensive 24" breaker bar that is ideal for removal/installation.
Loose the nut one or two turns while the tire is still on the ground.
Originally installed nuts had threadlocker liberally applied, making removal tough. You can mildly heat the nuts with a propane torch to soften the threadlocker to make it easier to back off the nuts.
Harbor Fright sells an inexpensive 24" breaker bar that is ideal for removal/installation.
Loose the nut one or two turns while the tire is still on the ground.
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 4,452
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From: Southern California
It helps to stick a screwdriver in one of the slots on the rotor and bear it against the knuckle (or whatever it's called, the thingy that holds the brakes?). Then you can apply torque to the nut without putting any stress on the CV joint or the front differential.
Aerocolorado is right, it requires a 30mm deep-socket.
Aerocolorado is right, it requires a 30mm deep-socket.
Last edited by copper_90680; Jan 10, 2008 at 09:55 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
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From: Washington state
it's the torsional effect of a 250 lb gorilla DIYer jumping up and down on a 3ft flex bar pipe to loosened a frozen nut or the guy that uses a 1" drive 1000 lb/ft double hammer torque wrench to unfreeze that rusted nut that does damage to drive systems.
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Thanks to all of you. I just ordered the new hub. I just bought this van and the axels on both sides were replaced last March and have less than 10K miles on them. My first Aero was an 88 2WD xlt. Just something about these trucks! Don't know if I can (or how) to post a picture of it but at 155k this truck is sweet!
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From: Mitchell, SD
If you have them on your hardrive, go over to www.photobucket.com and create an account, upload your pictures there, then post links to them here. 
I always enjoy seeing a nice looking Aero!
I always enjoy seeing a nice looking Aero!
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Thanks guys! I put the new hub assembly on this morning. I would also like to pass along that in case any body wants a good torque wrench Home Depot has a 1/2" drive, 25 - 250 FT LBS for $70 and Advance Auto Parts sells a 30mm 6 point deep inpact socket for $17. I torqued the spindle nut at 184 FT LBS per Advance Auto Parts' manufacture specs.
Thanks again to all of you wrench jockeys,
Joe
1996 Aerostar AWD
Thanks again to all of you wrench jockeys,
Joe
1996 Aerostar AWD
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Superdave
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May 25, 2001 11:47 AM