When I had my truck's OBDII scanned at Autozone one of the things it read was #8 glow plug issue, this was after doing the 50¢ mod on the UVCH.

Problem with circuit
Open circuit
glow plug short
faulty glow plug

Can this be the cause of my miss and what felt like an entire bank of cylinders shutting down?

I just did the 50¢ mod. All pins looked great/ no burnt areas on any of the connections.

Should I replace

Glow Plug- 1 or all
Under Valve Cover Harness
Valve Cover Gasket

1, all, or a combination

I live so far south that nothing I have ever needs the glow plugs to cycle to crank 99.9% of the time.

 

Oh yeah I forgot to add, It fires right up. Usually within 2 sec, worst I've ever seen it do was probably 10 sec of cranking before it fired up. Oddly this was at the dealer the day I bought it. They had just changed oil, filter, and fuel filter. I wrote it off to air in the fuel system from the filter change, they weren't a truck or diesel type of dealer. They had bought it at auction and put new tires on it, some REALLY nice C rated tires on the HEAVIEST passenger vehicle alive!!! They had even put "all the way up to 35 psi" in them. I practically had to take the air hose from the service guy to put 50 in it before I'd test drive it, as the tires were all bulged out.

 

What does the glow plug in question (#8) ohm out to from the plug at the VC gasket? Use the center pin as a common and the pin closest to the firewall for the #8 GP.

Anything over 2 ohms indicates a need for replacement.

Pretty academic though, as you stated not exactly a necessity in Florida!

 

OBD II scanners do not work on these trucks.

 

Yeah I've read that the reg. OBDII scanners aren't the way to diagnose these trucks. I posted up asking if anyone had an AE in my part of Florida to no avail. Unfortunately, I need that $360 to spend on parts right now, so buying the doo-dad to tell me exactly what parts I need puts me in a catch-22 situation.

I haven't played with trying to check the ohms as that cold front has decided to roll in, now-complete with drizzle and a nice "breeze". Thats why I posted about the symptoms of a bad GP. Could that be the cause of my miss and stumbles. What will happen if I disconnect the GP relay and run the truck? Why is this a belt and suspenders engine-glow plugs AND intake heater? Are they really that crappy in cold weather? I've seen them on that Ice Road Truckers fantasy hour trundling around in sub-zero temps (according to the on screen typist!).

I'll try again in this thread:

Anyone in SW Florida (Port Charlotte-Marco) have an AutoEngenuity AE Scanner who can help me diagnose my truck? I would rent it, buy you dinner, whatever. I'd really appreciate any definitive assistance in determining what's up with my truck.

 

A GP issue would only show itself during 'cold-starts'. After (a max time of) 120 seconds, the GP's aren't doing anything.

If you're having a "miss" or "stumble" issue while driving, it's something else. Time to scan for codes. With a real scanner (not an AutoZ unit).

 

You are obsessing about glow plugs and the relay. Stop right now..... You really don't need the GPR or the glow plugs unless the temps are in the low 30s or below and even with that several glow plugs can be bad and the truck will start. You don't needs 'parts' of those (GPR/GPs) right now, so save your money on that for some other time. You do not know what parts you need, you do not know what to do. Calm down and back up to the start.....

The code reader that I use came installed with my SuperChip tuner. This is not big bucks and I like the tuner.

As for the tires on the truck, look on the sidewall and see the psi. Mine go for 70psi.....

The start sequence sounds about right for the timing.

Start again and explain how it is running after it is warmed up and what is going on while you are driving down the road.

welcome to the forum.

 

Your description of missing and "an entire bank shutting down" could be a UVCH issue. While you're ohming those pins for the #8 GP, check all the injector ones, too. Those are the ones at positions 3,4,6,7, again use 5 as the common just like you did for the glow plug. Do both sides and look for something that stands out from the other readings.

My tires run 80 psi, incidentally.

 

LOL, guys I appreciate the help and advice. I'm not obsessing about glow plugs. I was asking if the glow plug issue could cause a electrical draw when they cycle that could cause my engine to have gone into some "limp" mode and shut down that bank to protect itself.

I'm not buying anything that I don't KNOW is bad (EBP sensor and ICP sensor so far). My truck didn't have to warm up to cut out a pile of cylinders. It did it 30-45 sec after starting on a 75 degree day. It either does it or not. The first time I had backed out of my driveway driven maybe 100 yds and SES light came on (1st time ever), 200 yds further I stopped at the end of my street, went to pull out on another neighborhood street and it fell on its face. It was shaking noticeably and got worse the harder I pushed the throttle. It never died, I backed up and limped it back home shaking/stumbling/missing, whatever term one wishes to apply, but it was like a whole side of the engine was misfiring. Since doing the 50¢ mod and checking all the pins for blackening the SES light is still on and it still has its "miss" that I can see and feel and my wife can feel it from about 1000 to 1700 RPMs. Its done this since I bought the truck. Its like one cylinder isn't firing as well or at all. I didn't feel comfortable having my wife hold the engine around 1500 while I disconnected injectors while the VC was off. I just bought a laser temp gun and after this front passes and I feel up to it I was thinking I'd let the engine warm up, then have my wife hold it at high idle (missing) and slide under and shoot the manifold runners. Any other things besides the 42 pin ohm checking I can look into?

Bro Les, as far as your SuperChips tuner, can it do a buzz test, or pinpoint a specific injector? Which one do you have and what do they run? My truck has 190K on it so if I buy a chip I definitely want it to adjust my transmission parameters. I know the OLD SC tuners (10-12 yrs ago) allowed a lot of people to burn up transmissions, because they didn't control them as well as most modern tuners claim to.

This is hardly my first go-round with HD trucks, so I know about tires/loads. These are light truck radials rated at 45 or 50 PSI-I forget which. Its irrelevant, they are lighter than I like on a HD truck. They are brand new and have a nice aggressive tread pattern so I'm going to air'em up and run them as long as I can. If I can get 15-20K out of them thats more than I could get trying to sell them on CL.