429/460 48 Ford F1
#61
filling the seam.
Check out www.1956f100.com for what one of the members here did. He leaded in the seams. Looks like something I might be able to try later myself. Might just be easier than trying to weld them in.
#62
#64
I found a rear end for the 9" ford swap, but it is out of a 78 f150. The guy at the autowrecker says it should be exactly the same as a 1970 f100, but after reading the info page on direct swap outs here, you guys say 57-72 is direct swap, nothing about a 73-78, etc.. Anyone know? Thanks Steve.
#65
Hey Steve, I got mine from a 72 F-100 and it does fit just like all say it does. I measured the spring perches and then measured the inside and outside diameter of the brake plate made sure clearence was the same. The only thing I had to do when I swapped mine out is cut off the spring perches and reweld new ones in because of the pinion angle.
I had 6 deg angle on the tranny and needed to match the pinion at the same angle to keep everything correct and aligned. By the way, sorry for the delay, you asked me where I found my Alt bracket.... I have fabricated my own and even for the Ford 78 PS pump brackets for the Toyota PS box and hoses. I will take pics and put on forum tomorrow. Also cut the drive line from the f-100 to fit between the trans and rear end. ANd lots more fab work than I expected from front to rear.
Dennis.
I had 6 deg angle on the tranny and needed to match the pinion at the same angle to keep everything correct and aligned. By the way, sorry for the delay, you asked me where I found my Alt bracket.... I have fabricated my own and even for the Ford 78 PS pump brackets for the Toyota PS box and hoses. I will take pics and put on forum tomorrow. Also cut the drive line from the f-100 to fit between the trans and rear end. ANd lots more fab work than I expected from front to rear.
Dennis.
Last edited by retro48/52; 08-08-2008 at 10:01 PM. Reason: more info
#66
BACA Grizz
I am actually going to use evercoat metal 2 metal filler on the rest of the seam. Thanks for the link. It seems that metal 2 metal is water proof and expands at the same rate with the rest of the sheet metal. I've read about 20 peoples testimonies now and feel good enough using that stuff. It has to be easier than welding and grinding!
I also scored a Classic Performance Produsts direct fit aluminum 17 gallon gas tank that fits under the bed and has a bed flush mount cap. It normally sells for 449.00 but they were doing some inventory clearance on ebay, and misslisted this tank, for a side fill tank. I called them, and they honored the 299.00 price for the bed fill version. Great company. I've used their disc brake conversion kit, brake booster and engine mounts with cross member, for boxing in the frame. Good help line as well.
Still waiting on the 9 " rear end, a guy in the area said he's pretty sure he has an intact rear end for me, and another guy in the past said he had one too(just not answering his messages right now! But I still have time, while I work on the body, so I'm not in a rush!
I am actually going to use evercoat metal 2 metal filler on the rest of the seam. Thanks for the link. It seems that metal 2 metal is water proof and expands at the same rate with the rest of the sheet metal. I've read about 20 peoples testimonies now and feel good enough using that stuff. It has to be easier than welding and grinding!
I also scored a Classic Performance Produsts direct fit aluminum 17 gallon gas tank that fits under the bed and has a bed flush mount cap. It normally sells for 449.00 but they were doing some inventory clearance on ebay, and misslisted this tank, for a side fill tank. I called them, and they honored the 299.00 price for the bed fill version. Great company. I've used their disc brake conversion kit, brake booster and engine mounts with cross member, for boxing in the frame. Good help line as well.
Still waiting on the 9 " rear end, a guy in the area said he's pretty sure he has an intact rear end for me, and another guy in the past said he had one too(just not answering his messages right now! But I still have time, while I work on the body, so I'm not in a rush!
#67
#69
I picked up my diferential today. It's a late 60's F100 axle with a 3.0 pumpkin swap. The guy gave me the ubolt mounts, emergency brake cables and nice brake drums, total cost $375.00. Best I could find that hooked me up with what I needed. Now this weekend, I'll attempt the switchover! Here are some shots of the 9 inch rear end. The brakes look pretty good, though I will replace the wheel cylinders, and brake lines at the very least. I'll also have to take the drums in, and get them turned.
#74