I'm slowly getting my parts together, for the electrical upgrades to a new wiring harness - American Autowire HWY 22 harness. They use a one lead alternator setup with an internal voltage regulator, so I'm looking to pick one up for this truck. Summit has two choices in 460 ford one leads, 61 amps, and 100amps. 100 amps, seems enough. What do you think?

 

Stevo , Total up all your Electrical needs on a piece of paper ..see what the total is, Keep in mind "extras" ..Stero amps ,A/C,A/C fan,your ignition system,elec.fuel pump,CD player,stereo/AMPS,Hologen lites,..add to your list , make a total ..<80-90 amps ???your good to go, no one will recommend Maxing the system..but everyone tries to get "as close " as possiable. It"s more complicated than that,but other variables like wattage,resistance,power surges etc..need the room. Get the Idea??

 

I get it. I figure stock is probably 60-80, so 100 should be more than enough!

 

Well ,...Kinda...Your stock 48 had a generator , the entire system ..maybe 30 a-6volt,Your doing 12v now..new game. Look at your "new" fuse box.., does it indicate how many amps required for the headlite circuit?? 20-25amps? Keep going thru each circuit..total "those" numbers ,.what do you have?? Compare that to desired Altenator, Keep in mind you probably will never have them ALL working at the same time IE;headliteson,rainy nite,a/con cooling fan,stero cranking,cd player,making aturn with the brakes on,fuelinjection ecu-on,fuel-pump running,driving lites on etc ,etc, see what I mean?? Good Luck!!

 

I'm actually pulling the engine this week because it is in at too steep of an angle(9 degrees). The motormounts look to be fabricated at home. I am putting in a set from Classic performance part that will fit this truck with this engine setup. It is a crossbar setup that bolts on, and it is only $109.00.
While the engine is out, I will pull the pan and id the crank so I'll know once and for all what engine it is. I'll also change out the oil pump and the water pump, along with the distributor, intake and carb. So it should work much better when it goes back in.Another guy I know has the toyota steering setup in his truck, and had to modify the Sanderson headers which are made for this truck engine setup, to fit around the toyota steering box. He said Sanderson did all the modifications for about 100 bucks more than the stock setup not bad!

 

Hey Stevo, I also got my headers from Sanderson. They fit real nice after the mod..
What about the carb changeout.What model and cfm... I also just pulled my 429 and am rebuilding the whole engine. Block and heads are in theshop as I write. Crank was a 4U,
pistons were flat head double cut, and cam was original. I think I will buy an RV cam but
really want some advice on how steep I can go and stil have my daily driver. Are you thinking of moding the interior of that engine while out of the truck?

 

Retro
I'm going with Edelbrock's Performer intake(#2166) and matching carb(#1407) which is a 750cfu carb. If I end up doing a rebuild I also will put in the matching cam shaft kit (2167) that comes with hydrolic lifters this whole set is dyno matched for performance, but fits stock applications. I am told the cam is very mild, but what the hey I think 350- 375 hp is plenty for a guy who drives a 93 Toyota 4x4 with a 2 litre stock engine!
The Edelbrock stuff is fairly cheap too, and will lighten the engine a bit since the intake is aluminum. I got the manifold new for about 180 on Ebay, the carb 6months old for 100,Ebay again, and the cam is 145 new(Summit has all of this stuff for about as cheap as you can find it!)
While the engine is out I plan to paint everything I can. I'll put on all the above mentioned parts to the engine, an hope it starts!
I want to run my new wiring harness so, everything it touches should be painted before the engine goes in. I'm also contiplating painting the truck myself. I have never done this before, but I want to stick to a simple red and see how it goes. Ill try the engine compartment first, then the cab. If it looks ok, I'll tackle the body. I just can't afford 5k to get it done right! Plus it will be my weekend cruiser, not a show car, anyway we'll see how it goes!

 

Windy nasty day today. Barely got the oil drained, felt like there was something in the air that burned my eyes and made my nose run. Funny ting is the oil is new, only a few hours of running the engine parked with it, yet it was black and stank like gas. I also put a new oil filter on when I changed it a few months ago. The old oil looked and smelled the same way, but that was in the car for 7 years, before I bought it and changed it! Any ideas as to the smell? Problems I shoild be aware of? Chime in, thanks, Steve.

 

Block numbers apprear to be from 1971 lincoln. Problem is the motor mount conversion kit from CPP doesn't fit Lincoln or mercury engines. Whats the difference in 460 blocks? this is what they say

<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=6 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="30%">Features bolt-in installation and comes with a black powder coat finish. Will accept 429 and 460 motors. Pads are sold separately. Can be cut to fit 28"; and extended to fit 38" wide frame rail spacing. Will not fit Lincoln or Mercury engines. Not designed to work with IFS front end.</TD><TD align=middle width="40%"><TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="100%"><CENTER></CENTER></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Retro
I am in the process of ordering a rebuilt 429 from a place in Spokane,Wa. I could't beat there prices even with the 175 dollar delivery charge. They will build a longblock for me with a 70,000 / 7 year warrenty, and put in the parts I want, in the year of block and heads I want, for 1960.00 delivered! I'm selling my engine on craigslist. The transmission needed a complete rebuild to the tune of 1100.00 bucks but came with a 3year/30k warrenty, and the place that rebuilt it has a great reputation! I know I could have got a tci for cheaper, but have read a lot of complaints about their quality lately. Plus if this one breaks, the shop is only 10 miles from here vs. mailed back to the factory.
How is your rebuild coming?

 

Steve,, sounds like te gas smell in the oil may be leaky valve guides or bad valve seats.

 

SteveoF1, My build is going very slow but I am trying to do things right. The frame is now completely redone. I have installed the Toyota P/S and discs on the front with the power boost and brake pedal mounted, 9" is in and the pinion angle is now correct after I cut/welded new spring perches on. Just got my 429 block and heads back from the machne shop and am in the process of rebuilding it. Hopefully it will be complete and installed in about 2 weeks with the C6 hanging on the back. BigRed4X4 has a gallery with some pics of what it looks like and I will start mine when I get time and my own pics. Sounds like you are getting your parts together and sounds good.

 

Big red the gas smell, dirty oil is what convinced me to do a rebuild now, versus pulling the engine again, down the road. When I priced the machine work and parts versus buying a long block of the specific year I wanted, I was supprised to find it was cheaper going with a rebuilt longblock, not to mention it came with a awesome warrenty. I researched the company on the internet and talked with a few folks over there. They have been in buisness for quite a long time. They use name brand parts, and were extremely knowledgeble about what I'm looking to build. I just wish I lived closer to spokane, so I could dirrectly pick up the longblock, and trade in my core on the spot. Core is 200, and shipping 175. They recommend to sell the core locally, since shipping is 175, you don't recover the core fee sending it back to them. Still were lookin at 1960.00 total core and shipping included to my door step.
They also are going to put the Edelbrock 2167 performer cam in and matching timing set(I provide those, and they take the parts they would have used and minus it from the build cost(1960 - ?).
I'm hoping to get a contract at work soon(we have been without a contract for a year now. With cost of living increases, retro pay would come close to paying for the engine!)
Retro
I'm actually just starting on the body and frame now. The body is on the frame, so it is more difficult to get at everything. I also haven't changed out the rear end yet. I did complete the brake conversion and put in the new power booster as well as run new brake lines throughout. I wanted it on the road for the 35th anniversary Salute to American Grafetti Days(next week here in Petaluma) but that can't happen now! Like you, I figure I'll do it right it just is going to take some time!

 

There is a great forum out there besides this one that can answer all your question 460ford.com :: Index. I also put a 460 in a 1956 pickup and the web site helped a lot . Good luck

 

Unfortunately 460 is a tough nut to crack. I tried subscribing like 4 different times and it took amonth to get on. Some of the guys there were helpfull, but I'm doing a mild engine build. A couple of guys here are doing the same build as well as at clubhotrod.com so I stick between here and there, both places have generaly nice helpful people who have made this build a lot easier for me. The hardest part is the expense and the patience to do it myself! But that's p[art of what makes it worth while!