Exhaust Manifold Leak 5.4 '99 F250 SDuty
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Exhaust Manifold Leak 5.4 '99 F250 SDuty
Should I attempt to replace the passenger side manifold with what I can get from Napa. I would rather pay 100 bucks for everything and do it myself. But, Im concerned about replacing the studs. From what I have read the studs seam to be the problems for most leaks on these vehicles. I have torque equip. and other tools to do the job. Just want others opinions about this project. How hard really is it?
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Just got done replacing all of the passenger side exhaust manifold bolts and gasket, or should I say having them done. I am very mechanically inclined and initially started this project myself, but in carefully attempting to remove the remaining studs the first two I tried broke off in the head. One of them (right next to the originaly broken one--the top rear) was rusted halfway through and there was no saving it. The other was rusted a quarter the way through. I stopped right there and took it to my local ASE mechanic since I knew I did not want to mess with the hassles of drilling broken rusted bolts out of an aluminum head, not to mention I would have had to pay to have the manifold planed flat anyway. After $400 bucks ($100 in parts) it is as good as new. I know, I just threw away 300 bucks, but IMO sometimes it is worth leaving the real pain in rear repairs to the pros. BTW, I didnt realize just how bad that exhaust leak really was until now. This think sounds very quiet and like a new truck again!
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Yes I did get the new Ford stainless hardware and a new "revised" gasket, but no on the new manifold. Ford parts guy and my mechanic both said that if the OEM manifold is not too warped, then just planing it flat works fine. This is the first I have heard of replacing with a new manifold. There was very little warpage, and no other problems such as cracking. Now I hope it lasts.....
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I had the driver's side done on my 6.8. considered doing it myself, but very glad I didn't. As it was the mechanic had to pull the head as one stud couldn't be drilled out. he brought the head to my shop where we clamped it to a bridgeport table and carefully drilled it out and re-tapped the hole. When put back together everything worked great and it was money well spent.
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well.. I'm glad that I read this fourm before I tackled this job... I'm really worried about the studs... and i was about to drive on base and use there auto shop since it's cold out side, and get started.. but now I'm having 2nd thoughts, and just taking it to the dealer.. or maybe just putting off the whole thing all together since i'm having an issue with my brakes, and just trading if for an 08 diesel... but I have an '05 5.4 3v right now, not sure if all the stuff in the above posts still applies or not.. any ideas?
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I'm assuming you also have an 04-07, i don't exactly have access to a heat source like a torch, I already figured I was going to take out the fender well plastic, and the dealership machanic gave me the advice to take out the right engine mount and jack it up.. how long did it take you? and did you have to plane out the sealing surface?