OK... like the title says Im not being cheep, bit as cash is finite I want to use it as wisely as possible. I have done some upgrades including Edge programmer, Intake, exhaust, CCV delete, etc. I am planing on rebuilding a spare turbo... nothing to interesting... just a EBV delete.
Now this is my fuel question.
I have an aux fuel filter installed and ITP upgraded pickup...
I was considering the ITP regulated return kit, but saw Dino Fuel Alternative's Cross Connect kit which looks very similar to the ITP kit minus alot of bling and the regulator... Does this seem right?
Given that I am not going bigger HPOP, maybe 160cc someday and no real turbo upgrade... does an external regulator make sense?

The saved cash would pay for my turbo rebuild or some gauges too :-).
If ITP's kit is that much better for durability and reliability I will gladly pay for it... but there is a sigif $ diff..


Thanx guys for all the help,

Happy holidays, Lets all remember those we have lost and those not with us.

 

the CCK {Cross Connect kit } connects the return lines too bleed out the air and balance the pressures on both heads..a stock fuel line feeds at the back of passenger side and the front of the head on the driver side.. and they just dead ends at the end of the heads and not let the air escape... the ITP kit does both feed and return...it feeds both heads at the front of the head and returns at both rear ports .. you can regulate the fuel pressure with a dial rather then shimming..... I think the CCK will suit you just fine for your plans......

 

I like the idea of the return aspect, just less gun ho for the regulator part... I wonder if ITP has a version of the kit without the regulator?

 

I'll jump in on this, the CCK is a good solution, with the mods you are planning, it would do fine. When coupled with DFA's fuel bowl delete and Fass high pressure pump it becomes a regulated fuel system, (the regulation comes from the size of the orifice on the return line.) while you can "dial" the ITP RR kit in with the turrn of a bolt, you can do the same with the DFA it just by installing a different size orifice. If you plan on leaving the fuel bowl intact, then you will need to shim the regulator on the return side, depending on the strength, and age, of your stock pump will determine the size shim you need. DI and ITP have the shim kits, or you can get your calipers out and measure some screws at Home depot.

See my gallery for some pics of the DFA full replacement kit. You will need to get in touch with Jason at DFA for a price on the kit.

 

On a side note, I see you want to get an edge programmer. I used to run one, since it was lended to me for free, and I now have a dp tuner. I ran the edge for about a year, mostly on the middle setting, and Ive gotta tell you, the dp tuner is definetly the better route. The price difference between the dp tuner and edge isnt that much IIRC but the dp is more flexible, and does alot more, and can be switched on the fly. And I dont know how long the sale is, but I got mine with 10% off. So far my favorite DD setting is 80tow. Its shifts just how I want it to.

 

Ok this is a basic question: why do you need to adjust fuel presure?
It seems that if I need adjustment the ITP kits is a stop...

 

And generally speaking, what presure would you make sure it set on a reg return setup?

 

Approximately 65 psi, I think is what most people set for. When I shimmed my FPR, i set it to 70psi at idle, I know its going to drop when I mash it. The reason for the adjustable fuel pressure, is 1) different trucks have different fuel systems 2) the user can set it to whatever they desire. In theory the higher psi, the more fuel you could potentially put into your injector, before it shoots it into the cylinder, as it would go into the inkjector faster. Im pretty certain 65psi seems to be were it gets setup in most cases.

 

Thats just it, it really only needs to be set one time, unless your pump is on the way out.
Also remeber what ever set you go with mount your FP guage so you can use it and see what the pressure is doing at WOT. Now of course my factory fuel pump had 255K miles on it plus a whole lot of idling time, but once I got my FP guage to where I could see it I was really suprised to see that at WOT I could drop the pressure from 70PSI to 30ish. Now with the new Fass pump, I idle at 75-80psi depending on temp. and can only drop it to 65 psi at WOT with Jody's tunes in the 120R setting.

 

When you went to the Fass pump did you get rid of your factory pump ?

 

The ITP kits seems a good choice... maybe just set it at 65psi and call it a day.
Do you remove the factory regulator when installing a external regulator?

 

That is correct , no more factory pump.


The ITP kit is a good choice, but remember either kit is only as good as the pump thats behind it. Weak stock pump+ ITP kit= low pressure under WOT. Weak stock pump+ CCK= low pressure at WOT.
What I am getting at is, check out how your current pump is holding up and then go from there.

 

On my truck i have the regulator boost referenced, which means that for every pound of boost it adds about a pound of fuel pressure. So it's easy on the pump when i dont need alot of pressure, and it's there when i need it. I have mine set at about 55psi at idle, WOT it's near 90.

 

where did you get this set up Kris ??? did you make it???