I bought what looks to be a good used(IE appears to be in working order) Stock GTP38 turbo minus the Pedestal and exhaust outlet flange. I have gone onto Ebay and bought a Non-EBV Pedestal and blank EBPV. I will get the code eliminator as well. So Now I have alot of parts to work with... IE a spare full turbo setup.

The current setup is a 03 F250 2wd 7.3PSD with 92,000 miles.
High flow filter, with metal charge tube... filter soon to be a 6637, Edge tuner on 40 tow, 3.5" down pipe, 4" back, magnaflow kit, Oil cross over line, coolant filter, Aux fuel filter and larger fuel pickup... soon gauges. and soon after reg return kit.

Ok here lies the question:
Given that I have 1 mod read for the turbo... what else would you suggest Considerations are... I have no $ for a brand new turbo... l love the idea of beefing this on up, and want to keep my truck running well for as long as possible, so reliable power is what I'm after. Would a bigger 1.0 housing make sense... I would keep it waste-gated though. It seems the turbo wheel is a bad choice, if one can afford a new turbo hosing? But then you have a much bigger inlet?

I like the idea of stock inlet, new wheel and rebuilt and bal, new outlet housing 1.0 waste gated and the EBV del setup? any thoughts? Anyone know a good turbo shop for diesels in Socal Area?

Thank you for any advice... just trying to make my brothers truck what he wanted and not break the bank.

Justin

 

I'd say a rebuild kit and a WW. This guy has great service and I think he'll even balance your unit for free. http://stores.ebay.com/Rons-Turbo-Service-801-842-9186

As for the 1.0 exhaust housing, I'd say yes if you're going to tow a bit. .84 if no.

With in a month or so, my stocker will be rebuilt, non-ebpv pedistal, TN high-flow outlet (no ebpv) and ATS ported shroud (already on there). I tow a TT about 4500 miles a year. Rest of the year is weekend beauty queen to the feed store or whatever.

Hope this helps.

 

No real towing. Mostly Fwy time and stop light to stop light fun.
The WW seems to caught a 1hp loss or so right? but the the increase in exhaust flow with the EBV gone should balance things out... least I hope. I guess I'll keep the stoke .84 housing then... what about the boost actuator?

Anyone else want to chime in?

 

Me again, but I've heard good things about this http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?...ROD&ProdID=457

I forgot to mention it earlier. I think I will be adding it also.

 

EDIT: never mind, just reread without distractions.

 

I was just getting ready to say I want what you're having!

 

I hear you. I have a case of the gotta work the next three days, and gotta get my game on quick, and go to bed. Happy Holidays.

 

Ive found some shops in the LA area for a turbo rebuild. Ill have to call around and see if I should get the rebuild kit online and or have it sent out for Bal.
Im thinking stock compressor housing, wicked wheel, Bal, Everything tanked and cleaned, new bearing and o-rings and install of the EBV deleted outlet and blank EBV pedestal, maybe a better waste gate actuator?.... For me upgrades, and cleanup and rebuild are of eq. import. God I love a clean motor :-).


Justin

 

I don't know what you guys think, but has anyone tried a mechanical boost controller? Thier really easy to make, cheap to buy, and they are a great ticket on turbocharged cars.

I don't know how well they would work for our application, but unless someone has tried it with deffinate negitives, it might be nice to try.

 

How about THIS? Much cheaper and prevents the boost pressure from opening the wastegate till it reaches the set pressure. I tried this on my Merkur and the spool up was much quicker.

See the setup HERE.

 

Yeah, thats a premade version of a mechanical boost controller. Priced much too high, we use them on DSM's, little 2.0 L turbo car. We usually just make them ourselves. It just takes a few parts from the parts store, and some know how.

 

OK. How much are you selling them for?

 

Lol... Selling?!? You could look for simple plans online that use a few galvanized pipe/or brass parts, a spring, and a ball bearing.

 

As to a turbo mod. Someone suggested using a van turbo with a pedestal that has no provisons for the EBPV. Anyone know how that works out and why it would be better than say a H2E or GTP38R?