<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">This is not a CPS issue. About three or four weeks ago I had an issue where I had cranked the truck and waited 30 secounds and strated rolling. Nothing new for this truck. Well about 2 minutes later when I pushed on the accelerator it lost much of its power, letting out the white smoke. It cleared on it's own and regained power. Slowly it has been getting worse. I adapeted to sitting for 2-3 minutes to let warm up thoroughly. And it went away. Now what happens is I turn it over and it cranks fine, but I idle for 2 minutes and it dies out sitting in place. To get it to crank again you have to let it turn over for about 45 seconds and it comes back coughing and studdering and runs horrible. Give it a minute and smoothes right out. Today it died and killed the battery before it would crank. I have replaced the fuel filter and water seperator (they are together in the bowl right? The paper elements and filter.) Well I replaced that. And tried a new glow plug solenoid. There was zero change after all of this. I have 135K miles on the truck. It seems to me that no fuel is getting to the injectors, but when I pulled the filter out of the bowl it was full....full.....really full. I was thinking injector pump but now am wondering. Ideas please.
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The white smoke seems to make it sound like unburnt fuel is flooding your engine out...

 

Where do you live? Maybee someone on FTE who has a code reader can see if any trouble codes are present.

 

I have a code reader. No code comes up. It could be possible that it is flooding. What would cause it to flood?

 

Any chance at all that you may have contaminated fuel such as water, or especially gasoline ??

 

You said it is not a CPS issue, have you replaced it?

 

I have been through about 10 fill ups since this has started happening, it has gotten progressively worse over 8 weeks. Not a CPS, it does not just die. It studders a little and then looses power. I do think it may be getting flooded and chokes itself out. It doesn't get better until it warms up. When it cranks it idles fine for about two minutes and then it sputters and dies. Once it has been running for 5-10 minutes it runs perfect, smooth. Turn it off and it starts right back up with no problems, provided it's warm. Is it possible the glow plugs aren't getting hot? I replaced the glow plug solenoid.

 

When your truck dies and you go back to crank it does the tach move at all? A plugged air filter could cause it to get no air into the cylinders, kinda doubt tho that's your problem.

 

How old is the oil? Is the oil full? Is the truck not dying your only clue the CPS is good? When mine started to go out it would just cause an occasional stutter.

Also what kind of code reader do you have? Not all of them will pull codes from these engines. Any other symptoms that may not seem related? Do all your dash lights come on and go off like normal?

There's not an injection pump in these motors. It uses a high pressure oil pump to fire the injectors.

 

Ok, I just cranked it. I got it to start and it idles for about two and a half minutes and then it starts dropping out little by little getting worse until it stalls. I opened up the fuel bowl and there is fuel in it. I have two old batteries in this truck and am wondering if the plugs are not getting hot enough. As the truck started to sputter and die, the hood light starts to flicker along with it. I am thinking the batteries might be my culprit.

 

The glow plugs only operate for the first 0 - 120 seconds depending on temperature, baro pressure, etc., so if your truck will idle for 2 1/2 minutes before it starts to sputter I think the glow plugs are probably ok.

 

One thing i did think about is if i remember right your batteries have to be above 10.5volts??? or the idm won't turn on to run the injectors, i'm wondering if the batteries are just on the borderline. i'd have those batteries checked out. Also check your connections at the batteries and make sure they are all tight and free of corrosion.

 

Sound like you headed in a positive direction. I had a battery go bad, pulled the good battery down and made it sputter at idle - but it never did stall. Remember those batteries with the "green is good and red is bad" lights can be decieving with a diesel having 2 batteries. The bad battery will pull the good one down and make it look bad. Best to run somewhere and have them tested or just replace both. Hope you are right and all will be good soon.

 

Ok, changed the oil and it seemed like it was low. I now crank it and it runs and keeps running, so this is good. But there may have been two seperate problems in one. I go out to crank the motor. Now I had it running for 15 minutes and drove it around and it was warm and running "smooth". I go out an hour later to start and it turns over and over and over for about 30 secounds and it's turning over pretty well. So the batteries seem to be ok. What would cause this. I would suspect a check valve but there is fuel in the bowl.

 

I once had a flakey ICP that made the truck run rough until warm. It's an easy check. Disconnect the ICP and start her up. The PCM will default to an internal pressure map and egnine should be able to run just fine. If it clears things up you have a faulty ICP, if not, it only cost you 5 minutes.

Good luck,