Tearing into the 6.9.....
#47
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Location: Campbell River, B.C.
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Could be, the truck sat for a few weeks before I tore into it. With all the rain storms we had this winter it might have been from that, but I suspect it was from before I got the truck.
I figure if I'm going through all the trouble of an overhaul, than I may as well have the rings as tight as they can be. This way, I know I won't loose any sleep over it.
I figure if I'm going through all the trouble of an overhaul, than I may as well have the rings as tight as they can be. This way, I know I won't loose any sleep over it.
#49
Nah, you are going to be something like 6.988.
I am very slightly over 7.0 with 30 over.
6.9 = 4" bore
7.3 = 4.11 bore
.110/.4=.275
So every 27.5 thousandths increases the displacement .1 liter.
Next time you order parts, when they ask displacement tell them 6.988.
Cubic inch displacement will be 426 in round numbers.
I am very slightly over 7.0 with 30 over.
6.9 = 4" bore
7.3 = 4.11 bore
.110/.4=.275
So every 27.5 thousandths increases the displacement .1 liter.
Next time you order parts, when they ask displacement tell them 6.988.
Cubic inch displacement will be 426 in round numbers.
#50
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Location: Campbell River, B.C.
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Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Nah, you are going to be something like 6.988.
I am very slightly over 7.0 with 30 over.
6.9 = 4" bore
7.3 = 4.11 bore
.110/.4=.275
So every 27.5 thousandths increases the displacement .1 liter.
Next time you order parts, when they ask displacement tell them 6.988.
Cubic inch displacement will be 426 in round numbers.
I am very slightly over 7.0 with 30 over.
6.9 = 4" bore
7.3 = 4.11 bore
.110/.4=.275
So every 27.5 thousandths increases the displacement .1 liter.
Next time you order parts, when they ask displacement tell them 6.988.
Cubic inch displacement will be 426 in round numbers.
#51
The parts in my truck range from 1985 to 1997.
The model ranges from 250 to Super Duty.
So when I go to the parts store they never know what year truck or what model I want parts for.
They ask, which year and model of your truck are we working on today.
One of the funniest things this fall was a front end alignment at Ford.
Needed a tie rod end.
The mechanic is standing there with one for an 86 F250, looking at the 1992 Dana 60 axle tie rods.
Oops, forgot to tell you, set the front axle to 1992 F350 specs, and 92 F350 parts.
Kind of scary that the IFS versus the mono beam did not click in his head.
The model ranges from 250 to Super Duty.
So when I go to the parts store they never know what year truck or what model I want parts for.
They ask, which year and model of your truck are we working on today.
One of the funniest things this fall was a front end alignment at Ford.
Needed a tie rod end.
The mechanic is standing there with one for an 86 F250, looking at the 1992 Dana 60 axle tie rods.
Oops, forgot to tell you, set the front axle to 1992 F350 specs, and 92 F350 parts.
Kind of scary that the IFS versus the mono beam did not click in his head.
#52
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My truck is a real mutt by now. Just the transmission spans several years from 1991-1998, with all sorts of mix & match parts (some off of Ebay), and it still drives porperly . Fuel filter is 7.3 style, might get a powerstroke oil filter, we'd be here all day if we listed all the things that we changed on our trucks.
As you say Dave "not exactly stock". People who buy new trucks just don't get it.....
As you say Dave "not exactly stock". People who buy new trucks just don't get it.....
#53
#54
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Exactly.
when buying a new truck you are often making payments on something that is loosing value faster than you can pay it off, while the truck ages to the point of increasing maintenance cost anyway. So you have to trade up, and it starts all over again.
With a 20 year old rig, the value has bottomed out, and although the maintenance cost may be higher, it is still within the annual cost of paying off a new truck. Which leaves plenty of room for upgrades . So our "old tired" trucks end up aging back wards, and gaining in capability over the years. and then theres all the emission controls........
Why buy new when you can upgrade?
when buying a new truck you are often making payments on something that is loosing value faster than you can pay it off, while the truck ages to the point of increasing maintenance cost anyway. So you have to trade up, and it starts all over again.
With a 20 year old rig, the value has bottomed out, and although the maintenance cost may be higher, it is still within the annual cost of paying off a new truck. Which leaves plenty of room for upgrades . So our "old tired" trucks end up aging back wards, and gaining in capability over the years. and then theres all the emission controls........
Why buy new when you can upgrade?
#56
Originally Posted by fonefiddy
Im with ya.
But, You have to admit. The new trucks sure have nice comfy cabs, compared with the 80's, and even the 90's!
But, You have to admit. The new trucks sure have nice comfy cabs, compared with the 80's, and even the 90's!
I looked at several late model powerstrokes that were very nice but being able to buy a whole truck for less than a set of PS injectors costs left a lot of money to fix/maintain, upgrade with.
#57
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Interiors can be upgraded like anything else, but both my trucks were already lariats. My diesel came from factory with power windows and door locks, factory tach, I had to rebuild the AC, so that works too, and I replaced the uncomfortable bench seat with seperate leather seats. I lifted the rear seat by 4" for a little more comfort in the back (my f150 came with this). Might get a seat heater kit eventually. When I rebuilt the cab on my F150, I installed 3 point seat belts in the rear and I will probably do that with the diesel some day.
Not everyone has the time to be constantly upgrading an old truck, so trading up is the solution for those who don't.
Not everyone has the time to be constantly upgrading an old truck, so trading up is the solution for those who don't.
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