THE BEST WAY I FOUND TO OPEN RUSTY BLEEDERS IS TO "COLD CRACK THEM" THAT MEANS TIGHTEN IT A LITTLE FIRST THEN LOOSEN IT. I USE A SIX POINT SOCKET THAT FITS TIGHT. TO REMOVE BRAKE LINES I CUT THE LINE WITH A SET OF DIAGONAL WIRE CUTTERS AS CLOSE TO THE FITTING AS I CAN, THEN SPRAY WITH PB BLASTER, INSTALL A SIX POINT SOCKET, FIRST I TIGHTEN THE FITTING A LITTLE THEN JUST TURN IT TO THE LEFT AND REMOVE IT. I SEE THIS IS A OLD POST, BUT THOUGHT I COULD ADD TO IT.I ONLY DRIVE OLD RUSTY TRUCKS SO CHANGING BRAKE LINES IS VERY COMMON TO ME.

 

I did a read on the OBD1 and got trouble code 536 BOO(brake on off open). I said OK where do you find BOO? Is it a switch? or a wire? The book does not even have a BOO in it. Can anyone help?

 

My F100 brakes needed some attention. Had the wheel cylinders and shoes serviced a while back, but the hard lines and hoses looked pretty scary. Then the master cylinder started leaking on the cab floor. The hard lines and fittings were 50 years old, and corroded, no way around it.

The master cylinder was easy replacement. But crawling around under my truck has lost some of the appeal. So.... bit the bullet and paid a shop to replace the lines and hoses. Wasn't cheap, but the aggravation factor WAS a lot less and nice to know the job was done with best practices and workmanlike manner.

And it was done in a day, so my truck wasn't down for a week while I get up to speed on buying or renting tools and learning new cuss words. They charged $260 labor and $86 for line and fittings.

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Thank you thank you thank you!! I've been looking for places that sell ready to install brake lines with no luck! Thank God I found this post! $155 for all lines for my truck

 

just finished doing this on my 93 with in-line tube parts. fit perfect. they do a nice job.