Maybe, but where I live, the only diesel turbo shop around thinks making a pop tester is a dumb idea, and that autolite glow plugs are ford OEM, being a small town, there isn't much competition for them. I figured on just getting a different compressor wheel and matching housing from within the T4 family.

 

Don't worry about going to a diesel shop. Find a GOOOD turbo build shop.

Remember this. The Gated Turbo that Banks supplies with their kits, is the same turbo that Mitsubishi put on their 80's Eek lips's. With a 4 cyl.
There's plenty of aftermarket for them also.

The Garrett T4, which most others offer is one of the most common turbo's out there. The aftermarket for it is quite extensive.

 

I'd love to get my hands on one of the engines these guys build... Or maybe a stroker rotating assy......
http://www.barnetthighperformance.co...nes_diesel.htm

As for the turbo, a smaller exhaust housing/different wheel is the way to go. I plan on a smaller exhaust housing, and I may add a second turbo once I go through my 6.9.... LOL

 

I don't think I can easily convert the turbine wheel/housing because it has an ATS proprietory housing that includes the connections for the up Y pipe and downpipe, But If I could get a larger flow compressor wheel and a housing to match that, it should be a simple bolt-on job.

Increasing the mechanical advantage between the compressor, and turbine should get me what I need, but if I make the turbine larger, as opposed to the compressor smaller, that should also help keep EGTs lower (becuase the overall plumbing now has more flow capacity), admittedly at the expence of lag, but I'm building for long haul cruising (and towing), at or above 70 MPH.

Does that make sence????

 

That 12 hours is old out and new back in and driving out the door.
My Reviva swaps were complete drop in engines.
You can pull an IDI in about 4.5 hours or less, but mine is a manual.

Going out the top, drain coolant and oil.
Hood off.
Unhook batteries.
Remove radiator and hoses, unhook heater hoses.
Remove shroud and fan.
AC compressor off and tied to the side, PS pump removed and tied over there also.
Remove alternator.
Remove vacuum pump.
Unplug wires at the engine to chassis connector.
Remove pulley from crank.
Remove fuel supply from lift pump and block line off.
Remove starter.
Remove engine grounds and positive battery cable.
Unbolt downpipe from bell housing.
Remove the oil filter.
Support the transmission.
Unhook throttle cable and return line from rear of engine drivers side that goes down to the selector valve.
Unbolt 2 bolts each side at the motor mounts.
Unbolt 6 bolts that hold tranny to spacer block.
Time for two friends to stop by.
One under the truck to raise the tranny one to help you raise and pull up top.
Start sliding the engine forward, you need to raise both the engine and tranny as it comes forward.
Now you need an extra hand to do all the twisting and turning to get the harmonic balancer and water pump shaft by the radiator shell.



Now since you have an automatic, you probably had tranny cooler lines to unhook before you pulled the radiator.
You also have the torque converter to unbolt.
And you may have more electrical or vacuum lines to deal with.
And how does the 088 turbo downpipe attach to the turbo, mine just slips in and out.
Watch the lift chains are away from the injector lines.
Watch the back of the engine against the cowl and AC lines.