O.K. drove the truck on 860 mile round trip last weekend pulling heavy trailer/load no problem. Drove it to work this past week no problem. Parked it Friday afternoon, as I always do I look underneathe every time I walk past it to see if anything is leaking. Three times I looked Saturday and it was dry as a bone. Today (Sunday) I noticed an oil spot on the drive and antifreeze as well. Found where I think the oil leak is coming from and coolant as well, pics attached. Then, I start looking at the belt and it has a piece on the side that is frayed (no idea how to spell) and I pull it off. Although very small I'm concerned, the belt looks good otherwise. While the engine is running one of the pulleys/wheel the belt goes around looks as if it's not turning perfectly straight, kind of a little wobble. It's the 2nd biggest pulley/wheel above the biggest one, I think it is the one on the water pump. I really don't want to drive it right now, I can see when the engine is running the water spitting out of the thermostat neck where it attaches to the water pump. I think it's the original thermostat neck so it probably needs replaced. PLEASE look at the pics and give me advice on what to and how to fix. Also, where to get parts. Oh yeah, a couple of pics I wasn't even sure what it was but it didn't look good so I took a pic. The pic where there are two lines you are lookng at through a hols and the one where it is some kind of connection to where I think oil goes to the oil filter. Man, I feel pretty dumb about now!

Wow, I thought the truck was in pretty good shape but now I'm kind of freaked.

Thanks in advance for all your help guys!
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bump, need to try and fix ASAP. Sorry for my lack of patience but I know this probably won't be easy for me.

 

I don't recognize the locations that you are showing as they are too condensed. I do recognize the dead lizard next to the wrench

One of the learnerd guru's will set ya straight, have no fear.

Rog

 

The leak near the oil filter is the oil cooler. it has o-rings in there to seal. its resealable with a few hours work. here is a kit to reseal it
http://catalog.powerstrokeshop.com/p...catalogid=3660

the two lines you show are the fuel lines up to the engine. its very possible though that the oil cooler is leaking on the front as it is the rear and the engine fan is blowing the oil around.

The belt could just be a fluke but on my 95 I kept sheering off one rib and never could fis it so I just ran with one less rib. Remove the belt and check all the pulleys for loose bearings.

 

BTW if you do the thermostat put the 203* stat from here
http://www.dieselsite.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=186

 

O.K. lets see. picture #1: looks like oil pan bolt (possibly oil pan gasket, try tightening bolts, running down from somewhere above)
Picture #2: oil cooler o-ring leaking (if it's no dripping I would not take it apart)
Picture #3: piece off of your belt, you need a new belt AFTER you fix the problem (missed aligned pulley eating the side of the belt)
Picture #4: looks like a power steering line but hard to tell fron the picture.

Take the belt off and spin each pulley by hand and see if they spin straight. Also shake each pulley in and out, up and down, side to side, checking for play.

Water coming out of the thermostat neck. Hole in neck? Loose bolts? Loose hose clamp?

Also picture of the pulley you are talking about would help. Let us know.

 

O.K so do I need to drain all my brand new oil I just put in when fixing the oil cooler? Yes, the two lines are towards the front of the engine, so there is something I need to fix on the front regarding the oil cooler as well? I've never removed or put on a belt on these 7.3s so I have no idea how to do this. I guess replacing the thermostat housing will be the less trouble since I have removed it. New coolant and new oil down the drain-CRAP! I also noticed oil at the base of my steering column where it is almost under power steering container but no leaks from the container.

 

Your truck is 10 years old and has a lot of miles. It may need a little work here and there. Don't give up. Just be glad it didn't happen on your trip.

 

I would guess all the oil you see is from the oil cooler. When you do the cooler reseal yes you will drain the oil and coolant. For the oil just use a clean bucket and put it back. same for coolant if your careful. The oil cooler bolts to the block in the rear and to the timing cover in the front. its not to bad of a job just messy with coolant and oil running everywhere. also getting the tube and both headers back together can be tough to do. it take constant even pressure. not sure if there are any write-ups around.

 

I don't think it's dead. I think it's just stiff from the cold weather. They're cold-blooded, ya know? j/k That was definitely good for a laugh.

 

I'll take better pics tomorrow in daylight. How do I get the belt off and can I get one from Napa?
I think I will replace the thermostat neck because this one is 10 years old. On the DirectFordparts site it's listed for $20.
When I drain the oil should I drop oil pan and replace gasket?
Where do I get another oil pan gasket, Napa?

I will only be able to work on the truck tomorrow afternoon and all day Wednesday, so I hope I can finish it by Wednesday night. Any places to get the thermostat neck besides where I stated--let me know.

 

Don't remove the pan. It is sealed by a special international silicone not a gasket. The engine has to be removed for the job to be done right. Make 100% shure the pan is leaking before you sweat it. You can get the belt from NAPA. Mine cost around $50 so be prepared. There is a tensioner(sorry can't spell) that holds the belt on. I'm shure someone will have a pict.

 

While your at it, try counting the ribs of the pulleys. I have seen a few trucks that have changed out AC pumps, and some of them are on e rib short, causing the belt to ride uneven, maybe someone replaced a pulley with the wrong one. Just a thought.

 

I think I know which one is the tensioner but a pic and details about how to get it off would be great.

 

Usually with the tensioners there is a square hole in them that you put a 1/2" drive ratchet or breaker bar into, then pull on it to release the tension and remove the belt. Not sure on the PSD, but I don't know why it would be any different than most of the other tensioners I've messed with. Also, the tensioner is usually the smallest pulley, which makes it easy to spot.