Hi everyone
I am new to the forum and have been reading previous posts and you guys are great!! I have a '92 F150 4.9 I-6 manual 5 speed with 197k miles on it and have NEVER had any prob's with this truck (other than u joints and ball joints which I was able to fix myself)
Now my truck is running horrible. It will start to hesitate and then will die while I am going through the gears when accelerating. Usually it will start right back up but sometimes not. I put a new ignition coil on last Saturday cause it wouldnt start at all; we could smell gas like I was flooding the engine which made me assume it was a no-spark problem. The truck started fine after the coil replacement but then died on the way home. I cant tell if this is a no-spark or no-gas issue. I ran out of gas the week before (front tank) then started having the problem where the gas from the front tank returns to the back tank. The truck ran fine for about a week after that, though. I used the jumper wire method to get the fault codes:
327 EVP or DPFE above maximum voltage
332 insufficient EGR flow
538 insufficient rpm change during KOER dynamic response test
I got these codes using the jumper wire method BEFORE I started having this problem. The problem started happening a couple days after I got the fault codes. I havent had a chance to get codes since this problem started.
I have probably just confused the hell out of everyone with my longwinded babbling, but I am in sorry shape. I love my truck! I bought it new and have had it for 10 years. I am a mechanic of sorts (I work on factory machinery and factory electrical stuff) but this problem has me stumped. I am using my wife's car (a kick *** '99 Cougar) and so now she is pissed. I need help!

 

I'll start it off and maybe the master mechanics on this forum will chime in. 1st, when one component malfunctions and sends a code, it sometimes affects a bunch of other components and you get all kind of codes, so don't trust every code as being the source of the problem. Get a manual if you don't have one. For 10 bucks it'll walk you through on how to test the components, like the EGR sensor, MAP, O2 TPS.. But before you do that, examine each vacuum line. I bought a pump for $30 that checks for leaks (pump on one end of the hose, finger on the other, see if it hold vacuum). Pull a plug out, check your spark, try starting, then see if they're wet fouled. Totally disregarding codes, here's what I would check 1st, vacuum lines, coil, engine control module, fuel/air filter. If my fuel system didn't have pressure (i.e. gas spraying everywhere when disconnecting fuel line, I'd be suspicious of the high pressure fuel pump. Delving further, I'd listen for the pump running inside each tank (that could be your source of front versus rear tank problem or its the fuel switching solenoid). In a nutshell, most likely its something simple, you just gotta find it. But the tank switching problem and the poor performance may or may not be related.