Has anyone had any experience with mounting a 2 brl carb to a stock inline 6 manifold? I was told to use a Autolite? Can it be done? What parts are needed? Is there a benefit? How about rejetting a 1brl? Thanks, Dog

 

I put on a Holley 2300 (500 cfm 2 brl) and used a Clifford Performance adaptor. As far as I know they make the only adaptor for the 2 brls to our stock manifolds. I was able to use the stock throttle set up with just adapting it a little bit, it worked well and I noticed a big improvement in the engines performance but I wouldn't suggest using a 500 cfm, use a smaller one. You may need a throttle cable "ball" to go on the carb so your throttle rod/cable can hook up and you may need an adaptor for you auto tranny if you have one, mine is a manual. I would use the Holley over the Autolite.

 

Currently I am looking at change from 1 to 2 barrel too! Found an adaptor at http://www.weber-carburetors.com/adaptors.asp for $37.44... How much was the Clifford adaptor? Is the power worth the dough?

 

im also interested. how bad did it affect the 300's regular milage? now i get about 18mpg on the highway and i like that. and is there way more power?

 

Okay, I just got done with the conversion.
Put a Motorcraft 2 barrel on top of the 240 I-6 and got SIGNIFICANT improvement in power... Let me know if you want any details on my experience

 

Hey Farm Dog:

Please give us all a run down on that conversion, I think we would all like to hear it. Is yours an automatic tranny? How was the kick down linkage hooked up?

 

yes i would also like a run down on how you did it. What did you do with the vacuum lines and carb tuning. thanks for experimenting for us.
Josh

 

is there an adaptor for the 1 to 2 barrel conversoin or do i need a new manifold?

 

Okay, give me a couple of days and I will put some pictures and info together... While I am getting that ready, go ahead and get those adaptors ordered

BTW: My truck is a 4 speed (T-18), so I didn't worry about kick down, sorry. Set up the carb just like it was going on to a V8...

Jason

 

What size carb did you use?

 

Do any of you guy know how to (or know anyone) that has a CAD program? ie.. AutoCAD, Cadkey, Design Cad, Iron Cad, etc.. You can make your very own spacer by drawing these buggers up (trace the bottom of the carb and the top of the manifold) Make sure all the lines are connected and closed properly. Convert the file to .dxf (standard drawing exchange format) Look up your closest steel house, give them the disk and have them burn it out of ½", 3/4", 1" steel plate using a computer burn table- (There are water jet machines available too that will cut alum, wood, phenolic, cork, glass -you name it) Then drill for the two pieces. This is how I adapted my Edelbrock to my Clifford intake. Works great. I bet it would cost half of what Clifford charges and you learn a bit about custom fab. T

 

I am responding to this quite late but I noticed a big difference when I installed my Holley 2-brl 500 cfm. It seemed to run too rich but I was very happy with the performance increase, mileage seemed to stay the same which was lousy. I installed mine on a 200,000 mile motor and I bet it was stronger with that Holley than the day it came new from the factory, much stronger!! Big difference!

 

Hey AKford,
Could you tell us what you did with all of the vacuum lines on your engine as far as the distributor advance, power brake, PCV, and air conditioning? I know some hook into the spacer under the carb. Also, did you tune your 500 cfm any or did you just slap it on and let it ride?
thanks
Josh

 

Boss,
I hooked the distributor up to a vacuum port on the carb itself and the PCV line to the carb also, there is a port for that too. I had to use an aftermarket air cleaner so the line from the vavle cover breather cap that went to the old air cleaner would have been flopping around so I bought a Ford Motosports chrome "open" breather cap (like $8. from Summit Racing)and tossed the stock breather cap along with the old air cleaner. I don't have air conditioning so that wasn't an issue. It was an easy and relatively inexpensive swap, the adaptor I bought came from Clifford Performance and cost about $25. without shipping. The bad thing about the Clifford adaptor I bought is that you have to drill the mounting bolt holes and there isn't a lot of room for error so BE CAREFUL, but if I could do it, then anyone can! I changed the jets in the carb but the power valve was OK from the factory. The best way to check is to see if it is running to rich, and it probably will be as straight from the factory. The small time I spent and the relatively little money it cost was well worth it!!

 

Josh,
I forgot, my '79 F150's power brake line went to a vacuum "T" on the intake manifold so that didn't change for me, yours might be the same?