I am a hypochondriac so here are some q's about my truck.

She is a 94 F150 XLT I6 w/M50D very light gearing in the rear end.

Takes awhile to start up?? Is this normal, mechanic said so, but it takes a 4-6 turnovers for it to fire (could be slower these last couple to computer relearning), it fires up good too, high idle down to low.

Engine sounds and runs great, but in neutral, when first press on accelerator there is noticeable "hiccup" before engien kicks in and revs up. Doesn't do this in gear. Doesn't always do this in neutral, mostly when the engine is cold. Smooths out after a couple of this. I don't rev it high when I do this only to 1100, but it is like there is delay.

The tranny is harder to go into second from 1st everynow and then, I think that is normal though. But, it seems sometimes in 2nd and it mostly happens although infrequently in 3rd where after shiffting and letting off clutch, even though accelerator is pressed, revs go up but no acceleartion then "something kicks in" and revs go down and I accelerate again, it is very brief but there nonetheless, but infrequently, but when I do notice it....I notice it. (My fear is the clutch or pressure plate.....) Could I be releasing clutch too early??? I have noticed when it happens that is what may have happend. Any suggestions....

New plugs, wires, fuel filter, air, pcv, filter, rear end gear oil. Probably other stuff but don't remember, oh PCV valve. Mechanic gave thumbs up too

Also I had the battery terminal (negative) off to put in an OEM tach cluster, that works properly and does charge the battery and is of this year, LOVE THE TACH. Man the I6 doesn't go high at all. I try to keep her at 2000 or below because of the torque factor.

How long does it take for truck to "relearn" itself. It has been 5 startups and only maybe 10 miles..... That may contribute to the hiccup in neutral, because it is just been happening, haven't noticed it before today.

Cmon guys dont throw me any placebos!! Jk

Thanks!

 

Usually it takes a good 20-40 minutes of driving at varying speeds for the truck to fully relearn everything.

Your excessive cranking on startup could be your timing. Check and make sure its around 10-12* BTDC.

Any noises associated with the gear slipping problem? I don't know a lot about manual transmission but I would assume this is the throw-out bearing and/or pressure plate not sliding forward and back freely.

 

No, no noises. Just pop her in 2nd or 3rd depending when it decides to do this, revs go up, no accelerate, then revs go down and she accelerates. I was thinking the same, the worst

The cranking might get better, I don't know, just seems alot, for new plugs wires etc. Would the timing with the distributor be off??, or rotor worn?? because I think the I6 has timing gears.

 

I was speaking of the base timing on the distributor. Could also be a weak battery. Your battery is what provides voltage to the distribution system when cranking. Have your battery load tested at the auto parts store.

 

Ur ahead of me

I was going to break out my multi-tester tommorow and see if it was 13-14.5 volts while running, to check alternator, and check grounds at starter and solenoid. If those checked out I was going to take it in to get load tested. I can't believe how many auto parts stores don't do it. In Arizona batteries don't last long at all. They typically last 3yrs if you are lucky. Usually 2.5 or sometimes 2. The heat really kills them. Always have to tell the guys at whatever store I go into there that I want load test, otherwise they just look at 12 volts, well it looks good sir. After, the load test, oh well its not holding a charge. Yeah, that is why I brought it in, now can I have a new pro-rated battery. (That is the only good thing, batteries never lasted long enough so you get a new one pro-rated!!)

Thanks Skan!

 

No problem buddy. Let us know how it turns out.

 

Ok since I am a hypochondriac,

Lets play theoretical,

Assuming they delay of power issue is the pressure plate/to bearing, can I continue to drive it as such or should I or would it be cost-effective to get it looked at Asap?

Now, I know the cost is about 300 bucks for a tranny job, clutch, bearings, plate, wheel slav cyl, rear main seal etc. How much would it be if a tranny shop did it? (It is coming up on winter here.... but I will still try and do it myself.... it just looks so big and heavy.

 

If your clutch is slipping, it's very repeatable. Pop it into 3rd when you're not going too fast and see what it does. A slip will show as the speedo not changing at first, and then somewhat gradually picking up speed. From what you're saying there may be a different problem.

When I had an 89 F150, the guy charged me $700 to do the clutch. Hopefully, that's not your problem. From what I understand, it's a real bear to bleed the clutch cylinders ( master and slave), and that's part of the job.

good luck,

ford2go

 

Thats the deal.... it doesn't happen frequently. My old 85 grand am with manual did the same thing repeatedly when the clutch was going. This happens infrequently, most of the time during normal light acceleration. If I downshift to get more power in the hills, it doesn't do it. Likewise it is off and on. Sometimes it is 2nd other times 3rd, but it seems like it happens more in 3rd. There is no rhyme or reason. The truck starts from a dead stop into 3rd fine with a bit of revving, (obviously with the 2.73 gears) and it doesn't do it. But, I have only done that about 3 times.

 

Squan, dude, what the heck are you talking about??? Lock your gocart or the ravers at the world series will drill you for getting sharpie marks on my blue van.

 

small tip. if u get work done at a shop of any kind buy your own parts and take them to the shop. it will save u money caues most shops charge you for the part plus extra somthimes up to 2x as much

 

What are you ranting and raving about?

 

Nothing. Just busting jokes for my own amusement.