I think I have a big problem.....

Had an oil seal leaking so I needed to pull the axle shaft.
Well, the lock bolt that holds the pinion shaft in place broke. I have have half of a bolt and a pinion shaft still locked in place.
Just how bad off am I?
Is there any way for a DIYer with his truck on jack stands in the driveway to get it apart enought to resolve the issue?
Or do I put it all back together, let the seal leak and look for an entire rear-end assembly?

I can't see a way to get the axle shafts out without removing the pinion shaft because you can never access the c-clips as along as you can't push the axle shafts inward. And you can't push them in with the pinion shaft in place.

AARRRGGHHHHH !!!!

I didn't need this right now.

Thanks for any advice or assistance.

 

you are correct. u have to pull the pin to get the axles out. Did just the head twist off of the bolt or did it actually come part way out and then break? the only options i see right now are to weld a nut on ur broken bolt if you can and try to back it out, cut the pin, or put it back together and let it leak. can u cut or break off the other end of the pin and take it out? had several apart before but cant remember right now what all the bolt goes into. good luck

 

I had one do this on an 8.8. I found the biggest hammer and punch I could find and started banging on the center pin. The center pin will either break or the bolt that goes through the carrier into the center pin will break. Make sure you wear good leather gloves because when the pin breaks, it might have sharp edges.

Good luck! Its not as bad as you think. It can be fixed. Needless to say, you'll need a new center pin and bolt. Both of which you should be able to find in a junk yard.

 

How can you identify an 8.8 vers. a 9 inch? I assume the 9 is better?

 

The 8.8 and 9" look nothing alike. The 8.8 has a traditional diff cover on the back and the 9" doesn't have a diff cover at all. It has whats called a 3rd member where all the internals (ring gear, carrier, spider gears) all come out as one assembly on the front of the axle.

So I guess if the axle has bolts on the back, its not a 9", its something else. If the bolts are on the front, then its a 9".

8.8


9"

 

Thanks for the help. I poked around on it again yesterday after posting here and have an idea that I think I'm going to try.

Thanks again.

Oh yeah, it is an 8.8.

 

A very common problem on 8.8's. I've seen at least four threads here that were started by members with the same issue. Sorry, your truck is too new for me to list full part numbers, but the pinion shaft is Ford basic p/n 4211, the lock bolt is #4241. the axle clips are #4N237.

 

I got 2 lock bolts (the bolt that turns into the stud for securing the pinion shaft) from local Ford dealer this morn.
Should only need 1, assuming I can drill, bang, pry and beat the old one out, but I wanted to have a back-up just in case.

If I have to buy a new pinion shaft, they have it also ($60), but I am going to wait and see.

I talked to a buddy of mine who is a mechanic and he has seen this several times. He said they try to ez-out or drill out, or whatever, the broken bolt. If that fails they just beat the pinion shaft with a steel bar and sledge hammer until it, or the locking bolt stud, breaks.

My truck is on jackstands and I can't swing a sledge hammer under it.

So, I am going to try something a little different. I'll report back whenever I can get to work on it.

 

I had the same problem on my 8.8, I drilled a small hole <1/8" in the carier and used some coat hanger wire to push the pin remnant out. Mine did not break in the threads, it was the shank that failed and just the gunk and crap in there was holding it in. I guess some would say I weakened the carier but a few months later, I stuck a lock-right in place of the spider gears and that was 4 years and ~50,000 street driven miles ago. The bottom line is the 8.8 is cheap (pleantiful in the bone yards) so do what you gotta do. If you trash it, replace it drum to drum with a junkyard rear. Tip: when junking look for an L on the tag in the ratio (3L 08) if you want a limited slip unit, the're out there.

 

I got it out.
Used a Dremmel tool. It was suprisingly easy.
Took about 15-20 mins and then 10 more mins to dig the pieces out.
Pics attached.

Unless there are unforseen consequences, this has got to be the easiest way to deal with the problem.

pic 1 = broken/cut locking bolt and new bolt for comparison (cut/cut/break)
pic 2 = all back together with new bolt
pic 3 = the Dremmel cuts

PS - I did not cut all the way through the locking bolt stud. Only about 2/3 and then a few strikes with a framing hammer broke the pin and the pinion shaft slid right out.

 

I am going to replace my rear end. And Im going to start calling around for a whole axle drum to drum. at junkyards. But I dont know what I have or what to ask people what they have? I have a 99 F150 2WD and it has 10 bolts to take off the cover.

 

I don't know much about newer truck diff interchange but the yard will have a book (more likely a computer) that will guide you to the year and model to look for. I would imagine you have an 8.8 in your truck. All ford rears have a small dog tag on one of the cover bolts that lists the ratio and ring gear diameter amung other things. I would try to find the same ratio if you are looking to replace a worn out rear. If you are looking for an upgrade, find a lower ratio 3.55, 4.10 etc and look for the "L". You may be able to swap in an F250 rear, but you might have to get the drive shaft from the donor truck. Do your homework and post questions here!

 

hope i don't have the same problems in my 2001 F150 4x4...i have the 9.25 or is it 9.75? i can't think tonight.

have to replace the left axle seal.

 

I LIKE the Dremel method! Good pics too.

If I do mine I'll anti-seize the "pin" portion of the bolt for insurance.

 

I do too!
It's all back together now and after driving it around a while, it seems to be fine.

I have thought more about it and - absent being lucky enough to easily drill and E-Z-out the broken bolt/stud - I can't think of an easier, safer method for dealing with it.