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Electrical Problem -- warning lights

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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 05:58 AM
  #1  
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Electrical Problem -- warning lights

I bought a used truck at an auction. It had a remote starter and a alarm system but I had recieved no gizmos for accuating them. It also came with a plow.

It was pretty hectic getting the truck home. I truly can not remember if the problems I'm having now came with the truck or did I cause them by an under truck pressure wash. Right now I'm leaning toward the problem was always there.

I removed the starter and a alarm system. I also removed two relays that were dangling under the dash. I hope to see a photo of a non-modifed truck's under dash to compare with mine so I'm sure I've got rid of all the "extras". Anyone have a photo they can post?

Another issue that I thought might have been part of this mess was my ignition switch/lock seems to spin a bit to freely. Does yours have a positive stop between OFF and START? Mine does not. Also, my steering does not lock. I'm 95% sure the switch/loc is installed correctly ( I see the lever gizmo moving up and dow when I turn the key. And the truck does start and run)

So on the the electircal....when the battery is connected I get these warning lights in the cluster Check Engine, ABS, Brake, Battery

Those lights are on with no key no nothing. Just battery. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 07:17 AM
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year & engine?
 
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Old Oct 22, 2007 | 12:30 PM
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Info on truck

1996 F250 5.7 L 8500#
 
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Old Oct 23, 2007 | 08:15 AM
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Any help please
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 05:29 PM
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Sounds to me like a hosed up ignition switch if the dash warning lights are coming on with the keyswitch in the off position. Sounds like it isn't returning fully to OFF position. I remember reading in here somewhere about an adjustment procedure. Do a search for ignition switch, and you should be able to find it.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 05:37 PM
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The ignition switch is mounted on the top of the steering column. You can lower the column, loosen the bolts for the ign switch and move it towards or away from the steering wheel, then retighten.

Over time the switch moves around and the actuator rod's range of movement isn't great enough to run the switch thru all it's stops. Might be a good (free) place to start looking.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 08:10 AM
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Maybe ignition switch??

Yesterday I found a truck the I could take photos under the dash. Wow what a difference from all the "extras" I'm forced to deal with.

I put in a new ignition switch and it still moved without a positive stop at on. I say that as thinking ACC-Off-On-Start. My other vehicles have this "place" I call it a stop where you can feel the ig switch "stop". You then have the spring return tension when turning it to Start. On that same note the spring return doesn't return so well - I have to turn it back a bit the the spring takes over - it seems like it stuck with old dried grease. Finally the steering wheel does not lock.

Now my neigbor who is a big time car mechanic (really), says forget switch and steering wheel lock and find the electric problem. I'd like to believe he's correct, but I'd hate to easter egg this issue only to find out it was the ignition switch rod. Is there any way for me to test if the switches think the the ignition switch rod is in the On postion?

Finally, I can't figure out which bolts I should remove so I can drop the steering column down. Can anyone describe their location?

Thanks to the folks who are trying the help.
 
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 08:21 AM
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remove the lower dash cover below the steering column
the is a large U shaped clamp with ears welded to the column
there are 2 nuts one on each side that hold the column to the dash
 
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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$5 says the ignition actuator is broke. 99% of the time, it will break so you can not start the truck. but every now and then, it will break so you can not shut the truck to the off position.
this combined with the fact that the steering wheel don't lock, tells me it is the actuator.
 
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