After looking for boost leaks and seeing how much crap was in the intake tube, I swapped out my K&N filter for the 6637. I also did the CCV mod, boost went up about 2psi (K&N was clean). I'm up to 20psi now, the wastegate adjustment I did also made a big difference. My stroker can finally haul some a$$ and lay down a cloud of smoke again!

I think my next step it to test the CAC system for leaks in smaller pieces. I'm hoping there is a little more performance left in it.

 

You have been wise to convert from the K&N young stroker....

There is more boost in under your hood, it is just escaping somewhere. Tighten all the clamps, spider( the thing that connects the turbo to the intake plenums in the valley) included. Check your Map line and make sure it is not cracked, or leaking.

 

I've removed, inspected and cleaned everthing but the turbo and heat exchanger. No exhaust leaks. Test bleeds down fairly quick. The map and gauge lines hold pressure so I was going to try this;

-attach tester to the right side of the CAC manifold (test engine +3 CAC boots).
if it holds air, then;
-attach tester to left side of heat exchanger (tests above + heat exchanger + 2 more boots)
if it holds air, then;
-attach tester to turbo inlet (whole thing)

This should allow me to isolate the location of the leak.

 

Good plan also check your Tubes look below for a pic of an almost rub through.

 

Brandon, Are you talking that there is more than 20lbs of boost out there for a stock truck? I am doing about 18 empty and just hinted on 20 pulling my trailer tonight (WOT)
Scott

 

I doubt you will see above 20 on a stock truck. Matter of fact, you will be lucky to see 20 if memory serves. That is why folks start the xxK mods (I don't like) and do other mods. I prefer the intake, exhaust, gauge then chip method. I believe this is what BD was referring to with more boost to be had.

 

Unless the guy that owned my truck before me put a chip on it (unlikely cause it was for a carpet company) mine made 21 stock with the wastegate unplugged and about 24 now that I took the muffler off.

 

OK, I give you that maybe, WG unplugged is not stock, and no muffler is not stock either. Sounds like you have a good foundation for mods.

 

Don't forget to check your uppipes for leaks!!

 

Stock truck, no programming, is only going to hit 18-20psi. Mike (tenn) is right red line disconncted does not = stock nor does Muffler delete, Filter makes a difference in boost (no, I am not going far down that road, not enough popcorn to watch all the arguments), zoodad, LEAKAGE, etc.

the OP, according to some of his posts in other threads states he has a Superchips, now a 6637, and has searched this boost problem before, he has a leak checker, and has replaced the compressor shell o-ring. He should be hitting 24 psi no red line, it may be to the point that he needs to start looking at MAP sensor.

Hey Smokey, have you cleaned out your EBP tube and cleaned the sensor?

 

Yup, the EBP tube was not restricted. I cleaned it and put back together. I have also tested the MAP, the DC volt measurements in #8 of this post;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-the-cure.html

However after further research it looks like I need to grab an oscilliscope to get a meaningful reading. The freq range should be 110 to 168 Hz.


--------------------------------------------------------
2000 F-250 PSD Lariat - 4" lift, 35s, Superchips, 4" exhaust, gauges,
6637, CCV mod, IAH delete, car seat.
1977 Bronco - 6" lift, 37"MTRs, 347 injected stroker, lockers, blah blah

 

When you did the IAH delete, did you put a copper, or rubber washer on the plug? Loctite will also work. Is your green line still plugged into the intake tube?

 

I finaly built a 3" plug and filed barbs onto it so it would pop off. I attached it to the right side of the CAC manifold. won't hold pressure (not surprised). my gauge line bubbled a with a little soap so I re-terminated it's comp fitting. one of the lower orange boots had a slight audible leak so I tightened the clamp (its way over tightended now).

pumped it up again, same result. What ever is leaking is much larger than a small boot leak. I removed the shrader valve and put a quick connect fitting on my tester. lowered the air compressor regulator to 10psi, connected and opened the valve. air just rushes in, boost gauge on the dash reads 10psi. there are no visable or audible leaks.

if I pull the little wastegate hose off the manifold, nothing changes. So again the leak must be bigger than a 1/8 hole.

I am to the point where I will just throw some money at it. doesnt' look like new boots would change anything.

Anyone ever had the gasket between the head and metal funnel that the orange boot connects to leak? when pressurized and sprayed with soap I don't see a leak there either....

I am beging to wonder if I am chasing my tail trying to solve a 'leak' thats normal.

 

Couldn't this 'leak' simply be one of the pistons nearing tdc on the exhaust stroke, where both of the valves are slightly open at the same time?

 

possibly, it was discussed in this thread;

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...+leak+detector

post #20 has the overlap numbers

I have hooked up my tester at least 5 different times
(crank and cam in different places) and get about the same rate of flow(leak). I have found a few minor leaks, maybe that's as good as this particular tester is good for.