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Wiring nightmare 1980 f150

 
  #1  
Old 10-11-2007, 11:08 PM
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Wiring nightmare 1980 f150

Tradded a buddy one of my pos cars for one of his pos trucks, but it has potential! 1980 f150 4X4 351M auto. Pretty well stock except for a 3in body lift and a hacked electrical system. It looks to me like the regulator went and fried most of the switches in the truck, the alt, headlights (high beam only) fan motor and windsheild wipers are all on toggle switches

I got the truck running and driveable at this point but I have issues, mainly the charging circuit, all the wires from the voltage regulator are cut and spliced to different color wires and there are two sets of alternator plugs hanging down behind the alternator... oh and all the wire loom and tape has been removed so wires are everywhere at the moment.

There is a toggle switch on the dash to turn the alternator on and off, not cool. If the alternator is on for a few minutes the 'majic smoke' starts escaping from under the hood, passenger side, this is where I think I should start. What would be helpfull is if anyone has a diagram of the charge circuit or even the complete engine bay I could work from that.

Anyone who is just going to post "go get a manual" like i've seen in dozens of threads while searching for help can save their breath. Whats the point of having an electrical forum if nobody is going to help each other? May aswell just have the 'electrical systems/wiring/ link directly to haynes.com in that case.



Thank you
Scott
 
  #2  
Old 10-12-2007, 11:10 AM
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Here's the alternator wiring.

 
  #3  
Old 10-13-2007, 10:51 AM
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Autozone has wiring and vacum diagrams online!! SO no need to buy a manual just go there. http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index...TS&Category=24
If you plan on keeping this rig rewiring with marine wire will insure it lasts a long time!!
The website isn't the best but give them a call they have everything.
 
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Old 10-13-2007, 10:58 PM
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Thanks for the diagram dave, was able to get a bunch of wires cleaned up and hopefully working properly, I dont have coolant in it so I wasnt able to run it long enough to check if its going to keep overcharging, get to that tomorrow.

I never knew autozone had all that stuff online, its awesome! except I still cant find where two mystery wires go, I have two wires coming in the main harness on the passenger side right by the starter relay, one solid red and the other yellow with a green/blue stripe. The truck seems to function without them but they gotta be for something.

One last thing, is it alright to leave the one wire thats supposed to go to the choke leading nowhere or should it be run back to the main power wire?


Thanks guys
Scott
 
  #5  
Old 10-14-2007, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tbirdscott
One last thing, is it alright to leave the one wire thats supposed to go to the choke leading nowhere or should it be run back to the main power wire?
If do not have an electric choke then it does not go anywhere.

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Old 10-14-2007, 07:57 AM
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I have a lot of wire connectors to no where, it is cheaper to produce a harness with all the plugs you may need than to make a 5 different harness for different packages.
 
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Old 10-14-2007, 01:00 PM
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Yeah I know theres going to be some extra wires but these were wired into the ball of wiring I chopped out and replaced. I guess that still doesnt mean they were supposed to be there though. I dont see them in the wiring diagram though which seems weird.


Scott
 
  #8  
Old 10-14-2007, 01:19 PM
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My diagram in the Haynes shows a red/orange and a yellow/lightgreen going to the factory ammeter in the dash.

Don't get any ideas of hooking these up though if your harness is all messed up. They originally went to what they call a "shunt" which is a calibrated resistance made into the harness. This created a very very small voltage across it, which the ammeter reads and gives a current reading on the dial of the guage.

It's in subford's diagram above, he just doesn't have the wire colors labeled.
 
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Old 10-14-2007, 02:00 PM
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I was thinking of that too but figued it would take voltage from the main power wire at the fuse box. What would I need to get the ammeter working again? There is an aftermarket ammeter on the dash beside the alternator switch that was hooked into the old harness but I removed all the wiring from that.


Scott
 
  #10  
Old 10-14-2007, 11:12 PM
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You will need an original harness with the shunt wired in. That would make it work like it should, though I have never seen any of these factory ammeter gauges work very well.

I have been thinking about this a little bit, and am wondering if you could get the original ammeter working by hooking one of the small ammeter wires to the back of the alternator on the "bat" terminal, and hook the other small wire to the bat + terminal on the battery. If there is enough resistance in the wiring between these two spots, it may give some sort of reading on the ammeter.

The aftermarket ammeter you have mounted under the dash is a whole different animal. If you want to hook that up, I have a diagram for it.
 

Last edited by Franklin2; 10-14-2007 at 11:15 PM.
  #11  
Old 10-15-2007, 12:39 AM
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Yeah, I'm not too worried about it, The other gauge is actually screwed to the dash to the right of the gauges lol. Would a 1979 have the same wiring in it that I could cut the shunt out and wire it in? I have a 1979 f150 ext cab 2wd with the 351m/auto (dubbed the 'hillbilly deluxe' if you saw pics you'd understand) that I can swipe parts from if I need though I would like to keep it driveable for the time being.

Scott
 
  #12  
Old 10-15-2007, 07:24 AM
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The shunt is most of the time just a 10GA wire 4 FT long doubled back on itself. The longer the shunt wire the more swing of the ammeter (more resistance/voltage drop). Photo below.

To answer your question the wiring are very close to the same for those years, the diagram I posted above was for a 1982.
Here is one for a 1977 and as you can see very little difference other than a few wire colors.


The Black wire with the Red or Orange stripe is the shunt.

/
 

Last edited by subford; 10-15-2007 at 07:48 AM.
  #13  
Old 10-15-2007, 11:01 PM
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So I could just use a regular piece of 10ga wire then? I think I'll just wire in a voltage gauge I have for the time being just to monitor it. I had the truck running tonight for about half an hour with a multimeter hooked up and the voltage stayed right around 14 when running. Found out its a thirsty engine, took about 2.5 gallons to get the rad up to a decent level, still need to add a bit of antifreeze to bring it up to around -35C. I'm used to my 3cyl sprints only taking a bit over 3L to fill

Also tonight the low beams started working with the headlight switch, hopefully its just a loose wire under the dash, still have no brake, signal, dash, or visor lights though. The brake lights come on with the headlight switch, the front passenger park light, and the rear drivers signal are the only ones that work when they should.

Lights are the next project on the list, hopefully get it to my house tomorrow night. The box is right full of garbage so I'll have to do a quick run to the dump first. Then replace the front universals and one hub lock is supposed to be broken and I can get haulin firewood (happy happy, joy joy) I keep telling myself its a good deal, I think I'm starting to believe myself!


Thanks
Scott
 
  #14  
Old 05-30-2018, 12:16 AM
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sounds like my '80 F150. Alternator hell for a dip**** like me.
 
 
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