JAG IRS pics in gallary
#3
Thanks Truxx1956 It only took about 6 hours to do it. It wasn't as difficult as the front. After I found the mistake I made on the front ifs. After I fixed that the wheel base was easy to set and I just tacked the cross member in place. Today I sat the motor in place to see what it will look like. It's coming along pretty good.
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Take a look at Holmseys (from the UK) Jag IRS installation for some possible ideas and info on completing the IRS installation. He went thru a bit of trial and error to finish the installation. His is a 55 but the frame at the rear is the same width etc as our 49's.
His website below is really great with lots of pics and info. I have been following it along for several years. There are about twenty pages so take a few minutes and browse thru it. It is definitely worth the time.
http://www.uk-hotrods.co.uk/v2/garage_scene/me/page_1.php
His website below is really great with lots of pics and info. I have been following it along for several years. There are about twenty pages so take a few minutes and browse thru it. It is definitely worth the time.
http://www.uk-hotrods.co.uk/v2/garage_scene/me/page_1.php
Last edited by 49willard; 10-11-2007 at 11:41 AM.
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#9
Originally Posted by RUSTY50F1
Well 49willard Looks like I found out what to do about my radius bars. Would a 4 bar work the same way.
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Hi Guys, sorry don't get on here much so only just seen this thread. Looking good Rusty.
The tie bars (radius rods) were a compromise in the jag because of lack of space hence the big rubber bushes. If you do like a 4 bar the suspension will bind, they must be long ones as I have done that intersect with a line drawn through the inner pivot on the lower arm. Being independent they arc so would twist a 4 bar or radius rods made going straight forward.
I simply pushed some copper pipe through the inner lower bolt holes and where it intersected the radius rods bar that's where I did the front mounts.
Once fitted you should be able to lift the suspension each side without any bind.
Also the anti climb bars are very important to help support when you remove the cage, these are the bars that are solid and go up and out at 60degrees from the lower inner pivot to support the diff and stop it wanting to rotate and climb.
Also a plate under the diff is needed to to keep it all tied together, to replace the lower plate that bolts to the cage.
The ride quality is supposed to be worth the effort it takes to fit ... so I am told ;o) I sure hope so.
I am no expert but have had mucho advise from experts with mine, so if any one does need any advice just holla Cheers Guys Holmsey
The tie bars (radius rods) were a compromise in the jag because of lack of space hence the big rubber bushes. If you do like a 4 bar the suspension will bind, they must be long ones as I have done that intersect with a line drawn through the inner pivot on the lower arm. Being independent they arc so would twist a 4 bar or radius rods made going straight forward.
I simply pushed some copper pipe through the inner lower bolt holes and where it intersected the radius rods bar that's where I did the front mounts.
Once fitted you should be able to lift the suspension each side without any bind.
Also the anti climb bars are very important to help support when you remove the cage, these are the bars that are solid and go up and out at 60degrees from the lower inner pivot to support the diff and stop it wanting to rotate and climb.
Also a plate under the diff is needed to to keep it all tied together, to replace the lower plate that bolts to the cage.
The ride quality is supposed to be worth the effort it takes to fit ... so I am told ;o) I sure hope so.
I am no expert but have had mucho advise from experts with mine, so if any one does need any advice just holla Cheers Guys Holmsey