Expy Shudder
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Expy Shudder
My 130,000 mile 98 5.4 Expedition hesitates when under load and while accelerating. I've also been loosing engine coolant. The engine oil, transmission fluid, and coolant are clean. Plugs have about 40k on them and the fuel filter has 4k on it. Air filter was recently changed. No codes are being thrown. Here's a list of what I've checked:
1) Added Seafoam to fuel tank, crankcase, and intake. Idle smoothed a bit but thats about it.
2) Inspected coolant hoses. No obvious signs of leakage although there is heavy grime on the upper heater core hose just before the firewall. I did notice coolant on top of the intake just behind the water pump. Thermostat doesn't seem to be leaking.
3) When engine is first started, a gurgling sound can be heard in the Bank 1 fuel rail. The sound goes away after the engine warms up.
4) Cleaned IAC and Mass Airflow Sensor.
5) Replaced PVC Valve and Fuel Vapor Tube.
6) Checked engine vacuum at the brake booster. Reading was 21 inHg and steady. Reving the engine to 2500 rpm and letting it drop back to idle caused the vacuum to increase to 25 inHg then slowly return to the 21 inHg level. The vacuum did not drop below 20 inHg during this test.
Any ideas? What should I look at next?
1) Added Seafoam to fuel tank, crankcase, and intake. Idle smoothed a bit but thats about it.
2) Inspected coolant hoses. No obvious signs of leakage although there is heavy grime on the upper heater core hose just before the firewall. I did notice coolant on top of the intake just behind the water pump. Thermostat doesn't seem to be leaking.
3) When engine is first started, a gurgling sound can be heard in the Bank 1 fuel rail. The sound goes away after the engine warms up.
4) Cleaned IAC and Mass Airflow Sensor.
5) Replaced PVC Valve and Fuel Vapor Tube.
6) Checked engine vacuum at the brake booster. Reading was 21 inHg and steady. Reving the engine to 2500 rpm and letting it drop back to idle caused the vacuum to increase to 25 inHg then slowly return to the 21 inHg level. The vacuum did not drop below 20 inHg during this test.
Any ideas? What should I look at next?
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Joined: Sep 2004
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5.4's don't have plug wires. It could possibly be a issue with a COP going bad. Until it trips a code you really won't know which one. ( unless you want to buy 1 new, and swap all 8 individually until you find which one is bad ) As for the coolant issue, my 99 F-150 (5.4) was losing coolant, it wouldn't leak on the ground, but it ended up being the passenger side head gasket.
Does the heater work? Reason being it might be a heater core problem with the grime you have noted but then you would smell antifreeze in the truck and you might see some leaking in the cab.
Does the heater work? Reason being it might be a heater core problem with the grime you have noted but then you would smell antifreeze in the truck and you might see some leaking in the cab.
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No coolant leaks in the cab. I was thinking the gaskets were ok since the vacuum check came out ok (except that the vacuum didn't rise to near zero after reving the engine). I'm going to replace the heater hose assembly and will buy a cop and boot to rotate through the cylinders this weekend. Once I've got the old hose assembly off, I'll pull the plugs and do a compression test. Any other ways to see if I've got a blown gasket?
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Where Critters Are Free
Originally Posted by SMIGGS
5.4's don't have plug wires. It could possibly be a issue with a COP going bad. Until it trips a code you really won't know which one. ( unless you want to buy 1 new, and swap all 8 individually until you find which one is bad ) As for the coolant issue, my 99 F-150 (5.4) was losing coolant, it wouldn't leak on the ground, but it ended up being the passenger side head gasket.
Does the heater work? Reason being it might be a heater core problem with the grime you have noted but then you would smell antifreeze in the truck and you might see some leaking in the cab.
Does the heater work? Reason being it might be a heater core problem with the grime you have noted but then you would smell antifreeze in the truck and you might see some leaking in the cab.
Yes your correct.
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Monmouth County, NJ
COP/plug change 03 5.4, 93k miles
Engine ran real rough and then started flashing codes, but didn’t stall. AZ read the code and stated I need a tune up and to replace #8 cop if needed. I took the shotgun approach and bought the Motorcraft plugs and ordered the set of 8 COP’s off that bay site. Tried to get the foamy dielectric grease but no luck.
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I Got the parts and started the install last night…..engine was still hot for some time!! (Replaced a couple of hose clamps with stainless steel screw clamps, will do rest when I change out my antifreeze.)
<O</O
Then I took off #1&2 COP for practice, then I removed both plugs, #1 was a little difficult (sprayed PB let soak and then 2<SUP>nd</SUP> try it freed up- Both plugs came out easy) Blew my spark plug holes out and was amazed by the dirt that cam out! . Replaced plugs w/very small amount of anti seize (Plugs #3 & 4 will wait to Saturday). Then I went to the other side, removed 6 & 8 (5 & 7 will wait to Saturday) and did the same thing.Waited till mourning to torque plugs (by hand, I have two torque wrenches and neither goes down to 13-15 lb/ft). Installed new COP’s. I greased up my COP around the bottom and around the top part that meets with the engine block, then a little around the electrical connector.
<O</O
Truck runs great, then while driving to work all of a sudden I heard a loud POP. I pulled right over and jumped out to see but everything looked good. Then when lowering the hood I saw that the windshield had two spiral cracks!! That was the load pop, I was so relived. Imagine feelling relieved to find out that my windshield was broken, this plug thing is scary.<O</O
Condition of Existing Plugs were whitish in color and the gap was .62, the thread portion is a copper color. It showed some rust on the outside. I think I will change next at 75K..
<O</O
<O
></O>I Got the parts and started the install last night…..engine was still hot for some time!! (Replaced a couple of hose clamps with stainless steel screw clamps, will do rest when I change out my antifreeze.)
<O
</OThen I took off #1&2 COP for practice, then I removed both plugs, #1 was a little difficult (sprayed PB let soak and then 2<SUP>nd</SUP> try it freed up- Both plugs came out easy) Blew my spark plug holes out and was amazed by the dirt that cam out! . Replaced plugs w/very small amount of anti seize (Plugs #3 & 4 will wait to Saturday). Then I went to the other side, removed 6 & 8 (5 & 7 will wait to Saturday) and did the same thing.Waited till mourning to torque plugs (by hand, I have two torque wrenches and neither goes down to 13-15 lb/ft). Installed new COP’s. I greased up my COP around the bottom and around the top part that meets with the engine block, then a little around the electrical connector.
<O
</OTruck runs great, then while driving to work all of a sudden I heard a loud POP. I pulled right over and jumped out to see but everything looked good. Then when lowering the hood I saw that the windshield had two spiral cracks!! That was the load pop, I was so relived. Imagine feelling relieved to find out that my windshield was broken, this plug thing is scary.<O
</OCondition of Existing Plugs were whitish in color and the gap was .62, the thread portion is a copper color. It showed some rust on the outside. I think I will change next at 75K..
<O
</O
