P0010
Camshaft Position
Actuator A-Bank 1
Circuit Malfunction

P0020
Camshaft Position
Actuator A-Bank2
Circuit Malfunction

P0102 MAF or VAF
A
Circuit Low INput

P0135
O2 Sensor Heater
Circuit Malfunction
Bank 1 Sensor 1

P0155
O2 Sensor Heater
Circuit Malfunction
Bank2 Sensor 1

P0443
EVAP Emission
Control System
Purge Valve C Fault

P0446
EVAP Emission
Control System
Vent Circuit Malf

P2106
TAC System
Forced
Limited Power

 

Whoa. What happened? Did you go looking at a Chevy and it found out? Im just messin with ya but give a little more detail on what happened if you could.

 

Didnt you just have issues with your tranny? Did they do something?

 

I took the truck to Aamco to get the transmission fluid leak fixed. Three days later after having the seals replace and the transmission reinstalled, it still leaked. They changed the Torque Converter. I went to pick it up on the seventh full day. They still had to test drive it when I got there. After the test drive I was told it had a code and they had to check it out. They said it was a vacuum leak that they couldn't get too without dropping the transmission again.

The next morning (today) they said they stayed late to fix it and it's ready. This afternoon the failsafe mode showed up on the info display followed by the check engine light.

The above codes were read at Advanced Auto.

Any Ideas as to what is going on would be appreciated.

 

Sounds like many experiences I've heard about as Scamco. Sort of like the brake companies who promise all 4 wheels for $99 and everyone walks out paying hundreds for repairs either non-existant, or caused by the shop.

 

You may have a major computer problem to have that many codes. There could also be a poor ground or a bad alternator.

 

What about a vacuum leak? Could that be it?

 

I agree with Bear River... all those codes just popping up after a tranny fix seems bogus...
Possibly the shop disconnected more items than they reconnected?

Short...arc'd wire(s)
Maybe grounding out a welder to an item coming off of the engine/block/computer?

On Edit: just for kicks and giggles... but have you tried a power cycle with the batt. cables?

 

I don't follow you regarding the power cycle with the batt. cables. Please clarify.

 

Like what everyone else said it sounds pretty suspicious that as soon as you get it from them it starts doing all this stuff. I would try what trigger said and unhook the battery for about 15 minutes and hook it back up and see what happens. I do not think all that could contribute from just a vacuum leak but I could be wrong.

 

I don't think I mentioned it put is seemed to loose power about the time the failsafe mode came on. Is that a function of the failsafe mode itself?

Back to disconnecting the battery cable...they must have done that themselves due to all the radio stations and the clock being messed up. I am assuming I will clear the codes by disconnecting the power? I didn't know if I should clear them prior to taking it back to them?

 

Failsafe mode takes the engine from 8 cylinders to 4 so you can limp off the freeway or temporarily get out of harms way or to a shop after an accident or other incident.

This would be why you noticed a loss in power when it was activated.

 

After reading the responses I had gotten, I started remembering little details I forgot to mention. It is sort of a long story that started back at the beginning of April. See "what had happened was" I needed to find accessory power (key on) to power the relay to my "train horns". I found something to hook to but I didn't really know what it powered, only that it was hot with the key on and not when the key was off. About a month ago when I was trying to find something stupid to do to the truck with little money to spend I added switched lights on the back of the truck. Well I might as well tie to the accessory power already in the cab ,I thought. So I tied the same power running to the compressor switch to the light switch. Both, the compressor and the lights run through separate relays; the actual power comes straight off the battery with in line fuses.

Back to today, I noticed the people at the shop had turned off the compressor switch, had toggled my horn from "train horn" to the off position and the switch to the rear lights was on. They had moved all three of the switches. I checked the rear lights to see if they were burning. They weren't.

Here is where the short comes in. I have a 12v light in the tool box. I got it out and in an effort to find out if I had power to the light switch I accidentally shorted across I guess the ground side of the switch to the hot side. It has three terminals on the back of the switch one of which is a ground so it lights when in the on position.

It wasn't but a few minutes latter that the failsafe mode started and the check engine light came on. I changed the fuse and it appears to work fine now. Thanks for the help. I would have further embarrassed myself if I had gone to Aamco and blamed them. I say further embarrassed due to my embarrassment having to tell you folks I did it. I felt like I owed you that much.

 

At least you found the problem!

 

It's always nice to find the problem isn't as big it may seem.

Edit: And always check a wiring diagram when hooking up additional powered things.