Just a thought, have you checked your spark plugs to see if they show a lean condition? It's just something I would be curious to see myself. Also I would check the gap on the plugs too.

 

Where did you buy the MAF from??? I am a mechanic, I do not work at a dealership. I have had major problems with aftermarket MAF sensors bigtime!!!!! I worked on a Corvette and testing pointed to the MAF, and I put one in, still the same problem, every test pointed to the MAF. After trying 3 aftermarket ones!!! The customer aggred to pay the difference to get a Dealer one, and problem solved!!! From now on, I never get aftermarket MAF sensors.

Try unplugging your MAF sensor and then drive your truck, how does it run like that??

 

parrisw: MAF from AUTO ZONE. Before you grimmace, you should know I was a little uneasy about getting this part here as I had read low satisfaction, just as you have mentioned, before. It was a cardone. It is still under the 1 year warranty. Will Autozone actually have to test it before they hand over a new one?
handsomerob: Before taking it to the shop I did work the plugs over. The vehicle has low miles on it given the year of production, I was pleasantly surprised to find dry, tanned plugs with crisp corners on the ground and electrode... on all but the #4 plug. It was greasy fouled with little glazing. I thought it might be that way because of all the TB cleaner I shot into the TB and EGR passages. I replaced the set at that time. The dealer just replaced the set again- less than 20 miles off the last set: but I won't complain since the are FOMOCO plugs. I assume they replaced/gapped each one as the invoice says "8"- I have seen threads here where unscrupulous mechanics were caught only replacing the easy-to-get-to plugs... so sad.

Well check this out... I just had a hunch about the misfiring, having read a bunch of threads of same. I wnet out and checked the plug wires for nicks or burns, then I printed out the 4.6 engine firing order from a mustang sight. Unless I miss my guess, all 4.6 orders are the same (same wire routing to coil packs). I started tracing wires from plug to coil pack and found the #2 and #8 wires reversed at the coil. I replaced them; but the engine is running only moderately better?!?

Is this because the dealer timed the engine with the misfire do you think?

 

redacted sssssoorry

 

lesser,

Give me that e-mail addy for the VP. Have I got a story or 3 for him.

1. A long block replacement on an 86 T-Bird which required a timing cover gasket replacement in less than a year.

2. A long expensive tune-up that didn't even include spark plug wires, only to find out they don't know how to deal with OBD-I any more.

3. A clutch replacment that left me with a drooling rear main in less than 12 months for which the dealer wanted another $800 to R&R the tranny after I told them to replace the rear main when doing the clutch. "It didn't need it then, and that would have been oversell" were the EXACT words from the serv mgr.

All I can say, is that if you go to a stealership, take your own jar of Vaseline. Otherwise, they'll add that to the charges as shop costs.

 

Old_Paint,

Here is the fellow to contact, his name is darryl Hazel. The Ford Bio link: http://media.ford.com/article_displa...rticle_id=3916
His email: dhazel@ford.com

My results, I am assuming, appealed to him on a less than leaglese tone. I tried to keep it working class and homey; stating that I would appreaciate a call to the dealer from "someone there" to starighten out their practices at that dealership- thus appealing to him to straighten out any dealer that is besmerching Ford's good name. If you look up the regional VP for your area, try contacting him/her using the same email format (firstInitiallastname@ford.com).

Good luck

 

Im not sure on Autozone's policy, I live in Canada, and there is no Autozone here. We have great buying power with the people we deal with, and they usually take back whatever we give them. To this date I don't know why people go to dealerships. Lack of info I guess. Allot of people think they have to go to the dealership as to keep their warranty. But you don't, you can take it anywhere. And I also firmly believe most mechanics are better trained that don't work at the dealer. The dealerships are very sheltered for the training of their mechanics, and kinda brainwashed into a certain way of thinking. I am trained in very old to very new cars. I work on it all, and in doing so, I can keep an open mind when repairing cars. And we don't work like the dealer as in just full component replacing. In my mind you will never really know what caused the problem if your just replacing parts. I like to get to the very root cause of the problem, this way you also learn more, and learn how certain systems work, and in doing so your able to diagnose the problem's much better on the next go round. Some of the worst "hacks" I ve seen work at dealerships. Hope I didn't offend anyone!! But this is just my opinion.

Thanks

Will

 

Parrisw: I'll agree with dealers and the way they approach many repair- throw a whole assembly at the problem rather than fixing the compontent that alone has caused the failure- I am sure it is all economics. A bad policy from sales point of view. Sell the customer a new car then hit them with expensive repairs by over charging them for work that need not be performed. Hardly a reason to go to the dealer more than once if ever. I have owned my ride for about 6 years and it always ran fine with just standard maintainance. I only had to take it to the shop twice; both times I was on the road away from home. The NAPA shop gave the best service and was easiest to talk with. All other repairs and maintainance was performed by me; but if you reread my original posting, you'll see that I tried all possible fixes before I broke down and threw my hands up. I figured if anyone will be able to diagnose it... the dealer would be. So wrong.

So here I am. I found the #2 and #8 plug wires reversed at the coil pack. It only runs marginally better. Here is a question- a poll of sorts to all of you: Should I consider taking it to another FOrd dealer without letting on the previous fiasco. Should I take it to another shop that does auto servicing like Prescision Tume or A-1 Auto or a certified NAPA. I still have some ideas about testing the plug wires and coil packs; but after that I need to do something quick?

What are your thoughts?

 

Have you looked up TSB's to see if there are any applying to your problem. Is the check engine light on?? Any codes??

 

BTW, what vehicle is this problem on? This is a 4.6?

 

Yes a 4.6 and the CEL is not coming on. I cleared the coide I got the other day when I brought it home from the shop. CODE 212; but this is before I deiscovered the #2 & #8 plug wires mixed at the coil.

 

Well, here is the latest: I have returned a fairly new MAF to AUtoZone for a replacement. No change. I have a set of plug wires that are on lifetime warranty- they said bring 'em in for a replacement. So, I am going to put a new set of plug wires in. It is still running rough- not too bad at idle; but off idle it stumbles. No smoke so I am thinking that the rings are OK. That being said, is it the coil pack or the fuel injectors? I have to believe that after replacing all other components that are the likely culprit: EGR, EVR, IAC Thermal Coolent Sensor, both 02 sensors, PFE. Iam running out of diagnostics. There is a new head on the pass. side. Fuel filter is new, fuel pressure is good at 42... injector set about $200. Coil pack about $100.

Ideas?

Mike

 

I flagged this thread to get it moved to the right place - why is this still in the wrong forum?

 

andym,

I'm not sure to whom this question is directed towards; There are two pages in this thread already. Where do you want it moved to? Who is supposed to move it?
Mike

 

Not you Mike, one of the moderators.