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Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

engine missing

Old Sep 28, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #31  
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The standard shop rate guide lists 22 hours to R&R the heads with the engine in the truck.
That is the reason for the big number your mechanic gave you.

With a good hoist you can actually do the job faster by pulling the engine, and it is much easier to get a good job out of it.

The heads weigh a lot to be wrestling around while standing in the engine compartment.

Also when you remove the engine you are looking at about 11 or 12 hundred pounds for an engine weight.
Very good hoist and engine stand are required.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2007 | 03:28 PM
  #32  
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Ok, I think I found two cylinders that could be the culprit. With it running, I cracked the fuel lines and it didnt make a difference on two cylinders, 7 and 8. I removed the injectors, disassembled them, cleaned them and re-installed them. Yet it did not make a difference. I borrowed a cooling system pressure guage kit and it held 13lbs for over a half hour. But is this a reliable method to determine if the head gasket is blown?. Or should I purchase a compression tester? Im gonna try and move a injector to another cylinder to see if the prob is with the injectors. What other malfuntions can result from running it hot? I am thinking about romoving the valve cover to see if there is something with the spring/rockers. Perhaps they popped off.... I dunno.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 10:48 AM
  #33  
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I just found a broken pushrod. It was bent and then snapped about two inches from the bottom. I took out the long part but the small, two inch section is floating around in there somewhere...I will just put new one in and give it a try.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2007 | 11:57 AM
  #34  
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Ok I think I have read all the post the last time, I just skimmed thru and then posted something that was already covered. AndysFords posted that your glowplugs have nothing to do with the misfire which is true. but your glowplug wire harness may have something to do with it. There is a sensor on top of the eng. behind the thermostat housing, it is hard to see unless the top end is exposed, (ie- air cleaner) if that plug got disconnected for some reason it will cause your eng. to run rough it won't idle right and you will get excesive smoke on start up. there are also other sensors and plugins that come off the wire harness so make sure they are all hooked up properly.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2007 | 04:50 PM
  #35  
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opps I miss spoke again my appoligies. the plugins do not come off the glowplug wire harness but its the wireharness that gos to your injection pump and to your fuel filter. It was wraped around My glowharness so I asumed it was part of the glowplug harness.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:59 AM
  #36  
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After a few weeks, I started it back up. It still runs a little rough at idle and has blue smoke when I drive it around the yard. The two dead cylinders(the two rear-most on the driverside) shoots out fuel which is consistant with the chugging noise in the exhaust. I just read that a worn valve guide can cause the valve to stay a little open. I think this may a culprit. How can you determine this without head removal? Can the engine run without the valve cover on and not spray the whole inside of the engine bay with oil? How can Icheck the condition of the valves? I had the cover off a little while ago and everything looks the same as the others. How likely is it for the head gasket to blow out between the two cylinders?
 
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Old Oct 15, 2007 | 10:33 PM
  #37  
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You can run the engine with the valve covers off, but you will have a mess to clean up.

Rear two cylinders on the drivers side are 6 and 8.
Even numbers drivers side from front to back.
Odd numbers on the passenger side front to back.

It is possible to blow the head gasket between cylinders, and if that is what happened the cooling system may still be sealed.

What bothers me is, what caused the pushrod to break?
And where is the other piece?

I don't remember if you engine is a turbo, if it is naturally aspirated you could remove the head and see what is going on in there.
I am just guessing, but I think you have at least a valve problem to break a push rod.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2007 | 04:44 PM
  #38  
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when you do get her going you should use 950 cranking amp batteries always change both at same time you wont have near as much starter problems.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 10:39 AM
  #39  
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just an update- I replaced the valve, put new stem seals on, and reassembled the engine. The truck fired up and.......................
it runs GREAT!
I put a bed on it and got it ready for inspection.
The first time through the inspection lane-it passed.
Got it tagged and have been driving it for a couple of weeks. Im in the progress of cleaning it up, and I put new seats in it. In the meantime I also sold my 79 F150 4x4, which got 5-6mpg. the diesel gets around 16.....a marked imporvement.
there was a little blue-ish smoke but it has disappeared since I ran a couple tanks of fuel out of it. thank you everyone for your responses. Its a great truck!
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #40  
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Congrats on getting the engine running.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2007 | 11:04 AM
  #41  
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From: Faibanks Ak.
YOU can't kill these things gotta love the simplicity of them.
 
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