engine missing
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
From: Katy, Texas
Motorcraft plugs are readily available at your local Ford dealer, in fact I think thats the only place down here that carrys them. I wouldnt use any of the other brands, the PO of my truck had both bosch and autolites in my engine and they all went bad and all were swollen. I used penetrating oil and a drill to spin thm out without breaking them. be careful, you break one you have a big problem.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
Well, I put the hose on today and fixed the brakeline. Fired it up and it idles ok, but when I give some throttle, the dang thing shakes the whole truck. the engine wanted to jump out of the truck. It shakes a fair amount even at idle. I would guess that the motor mounts are shot. How difficult are they to replace? I priced them out and they are reasonably priced. But it seems a pain because I can barely see them. Do I have to remove the exhaust manifolds to gain access to them?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 831
Likes: 0
From: Katy, Texas
Mine does the same thing, it shakes like crazy at idle and even worse at full throttle. This could be a number of things I'm in the process of figuring it out myself and its really stressin me out.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
Since it has the shake, my first guess would be the mounts are shot. I know mine are from the factory. I saw a picture of them online and they appear easy. But when I looked at the truck earlier, it seems like a pain as I cant even see the mounts. It shakes really bad, I think that may be a reason it has a miss. The shaking makes it feel like it has a bad miss... Or it could be the miss that is making the whole thing rattle.(It shall be called Rattlesnake from now on) But even when you start it, the engine twists as a result of the torque of the starter and initial startup. So, Im thinking weak mounts.
I did notice the line does leak a fair amount also, prompting me to change the line first, since I dont have to buy the parts.
I did notice the line does leak a fair amount also, prompting me to change the line first, since I dont have to buy the parts.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
I will but Im a little reluctant as Ive havnt done it before. Its the line going to the front driver side cylinder. I looks as if Ihave to take the lines off of two other cylinders to get the line off of the IP. Plus, should I use a line wrench to prevent messing up the fitting? It cant be too bad. Replacing the brakeline with one that was a foot too long was a real pain, so this cant be too bad.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Most important when working on injection lines.
Make sure the nut is turning on the line.
Sometimes they stick to the line, the line turns with the nut.
Next thing you know you have a kinked injection line.
Ford charges about 70 dollars for each line.
Don't bend the lines, they will kink or crack.
And be very careful when you reinstall the line, make sure you don't cross thread the line nuts.
Any line clamps removed to work on the fuel system must be replaced to keep the lines from vibrating till they crack.
And when the engine is running, don't put you hand near a leak, the fuel pressure is about 2000 PSI and will inject through your skin.
Make sure the nut is turning on the line.
Sometimes they stick to the line, the line turns with the nut.
Next thing you know you have a kinked injection line.
Ford charges about 70 dollars for each line.
Don't bend the lines, they will kink or crack.
And be very careful when you reinstall the line, make sure you don't cross thread the line nuts.
Any line clamps removed to work on the fuel system must be replaced to keep the lines from vibrating till they crack.
And when the engine is running, don't put you hand near a leak, the fuel pressure is about 2000 PSI and will inject through your skin.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
Yea, I did it. and it was a mf'er. I had to take off 5 lines to get to the one line. I almost stripped the thread on one line but I got it, tho. No leaks so far. I didnt put the clamps back on, but I will def do dat tomorrow, as I never want to mess with them again. Yea, the line was messed up. I unscrewd it from the IP and the flared tip was broke off. I started it and it runs alot better. But it still has convulsions right off idle but I did tach it to about 2000 rpms and it was alot smoother. I think the mounts are in order.
.....Btw, diesel fuel stinks and my hands still smell. Im at work and thats the only thing I can smell.
also the engine bay is really dirty. as a matter of fact, the whole truck is pretty grimey. The truck is about as fresh as a hooker at sunrise. I think I will spend the day tomorrw cleaning it.
I also put the 33's on it and looks alot better. Now it needs a bed. back to the grind.
.....Btw, diesel fuel stinks and my hands still smell. Im at work and thats the only thing I can smell.
also the engine bay is really dirty. as a matter of fact, the whole truck is pretty grimey. The truck is about as fresh as a hooker at sunrise. I think I will spend the day tomorrw cleaning it.
I also put the 33's on it and looks alot better. Now it needs a bed. back to the grind.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Before you spend money on motor mounts that are probably OK, you might want to run a heavy dose of Diesel Kleen through the fuel system.
Remove the fuel filter, drain it in a correct manner (EPA) and then fill it with Diesel Kleen.
Now start the engine and run it.
This should help cut loose any buildup in the fuel system that may be affecting the engine.
A rough running or idling engine is usually a fuel problem, not the motor mounts.
The way the mounts are constructed is completely different than a gasser motor mount.
I will guarantee that there are few trucks on the road that have seen the heavy load abuse that mine has.
I am still running the original 86 motor mounts, they look new.
Remove the fuel filter, drain it in a correct manner (EPA) and then fill it with Diesel Kleen.
Now start the engine and run it.
This should help cut loose any buildup in the fuel system that may be affecting the engine.
A rough running or idling engine is usually a fuel problem, not the motor mounts.
The way the mounts are constructed is completely different than a gasser motor mount.
I will guarantee that there are few trucks on the road that have seen the heavy load abuse that mine has.
I am still running the original 86 motor mounts, they look new.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
Do I need to replace the filter after the dose? Im still assessing the overall condition of this truck, as I have an extra 460 drivetrain to swap in if this thing will cost too much. In my past experience, if it moves like this one, the mounts need to replaced. I mean I can sit in the cab and give it a little throttle,about 1200-1500 rpms and this seems like it wil jump out of the truck. but smooths out around 2000. But I would like to keep the diesel for better MPG. I assume I can find the cleaner at the local parts store. How much does this stuff cost?
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
5 or 6 dollars for a 32 oz. jug.
I should have a mount laying in the garage from all my engine swaps.
If I can find one I will post a picture.
After you see one you will understand what I am saying about them.
Steel wrapped around steel with a thin rubber pad between the steel.
They can not break apart like a gasser mount can.
I should have a mount laying in the garage from all my engine swaps.
If I can find one I will post a picture.
After you see one you will understand what I am saying about them.
Steel wrapped around steel with a thin rubber pad between the steel.
They can not break apart like a gasser mount can.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
Is diesel fuel red? When I took off the filter and drained it, it looked like burnt tranny fluid. I almost looks like the same oil I use to heat my house. When I asked my bro about it, he said the previous owner put "offroad" diesel fuel in it. I did the treatment and it ran great, and no smoke for a few minutes, then it starting running rough and smoking it a** off. I would assume that it ran great when it had the treatment in it and when it started pulling from the tank, it started rough. Therefore, Im thinking the fuel may be bad/improper. But now I know that it moves, and drives, just it smokes bad. Its like a grey-whiteish in color. Good news, no leaks tho.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 70
Likes: 0
It sounds like you have a bad tank of fuel. I have a similar problem with my 93 7.3 van. Mine only shakes at idle though and worse if in Drive. It runs real smooth when I accelerate and even has acceleration like a gas motor. 21 MPG on Highway and about 17 around town so you're right about the fuel milage. You'll only get half that with the 460. I still don't know why the rough idle.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 364
Likes: 0
From: Southern Delaware
WHats the best way to determine if it is a blown head gasket? I changed the fuel and fired it up. but it still runs rough right above idle at 1000rpms. The color of the smoke has changed a little... from a white-greyish to a darker grey-to black. It doesnt run hot, as far as I can tell. I let it idle for 10 mins and the needle barely moved. A blown head gasket would make the engine run hot...right??? The cooling system has pressure bc I took off the rad cap and it came spewing out, luckily it wasnt hot. I cannot check the oil as the PO snapped the stick off into the tube and I dont have the funds to change the oil today. There doesnt appear to be any sludge-oil stuff in the rad. But there is some white-corrosion in the rad. I priced how much it would be to change my head gaskets from my mech and Yikkess!!! he wants way too much. I may persuade my bro(we're splitting the truck) into buyin a compression kit to check it, but dunno where to buy them and how much $$$.
