I wanted to start a new post on this to make it clear to those that dont know.What Karl said about the removel and lifting,then replacing of the intake is very true.I am 6'3" 260lbs and lift anything you bet a 12 pack i cant,but seriously,consider very carefully the fact that taking the hood off does wonders for a cast iron FE intake swap.I got the idea at 16 years old on my first FE,that was 11 years ago and havnt done it any other way.You get the proper lighting,and if not a show truck,(leave carb on)and after it's cracked loose,just pick it up,sit it on the inner fenders with rags on the fender if worried,and you are standing on the inner fenders at this stage.NO SUPER over extending of your back.

Now we are serious,you have alot of work to do to properly clean the gasket mating surfaces so you will be glad of all the light you have.Replacement just like you took it off.Cant beat it.

As for the 2v/4v,a 2v flows more at low rpms's that a 4v.It's true,cats out of the bag.Most guys who run demo derbys prefer 2v's so what more proof do you want?A 4v is to take the opportunity of the engine that is designed or built for a 4v to take atvantage of the extra air.Remember a engine is a air pump,effeciency is the key.A stock cam which has low lift and quick duration is not gonna do anything anyway at higher rpms.At some point the throttle plates on a 4v on a stock 2v engine is giving the cylinders more air than they can use because of valve timing.Rear end gears,VW and ten million other thing play a part,but never expect nothing special on the stop and go end of your driving with a switch to 4v.Towing is a good excuse to switch to a small 4v of on the highway.
Just a opinion ofcourse.

 

The hood removal idea is a smart one oleblue. When I was putting a cast iron intake on my 360 a while back I had 3 people so it wasn't too bad but removing the hood really isn't that hard as long as you pencil out where the brackets go for alignment in the reinstall. I sorta agree with the part about the 2bbl 4bbl swap. The only advantage of a 4bbl for low rpm running is smaller venturies for better fuel atomization. My buddy noticed a big difference when he did the swap on his stock 390 but who's to say his 2bbl wasn't in a bit shabby condition. For the amount of money it takes to get a 4bbl carb and manifold its really probably not worth it opn a stocker.

 

>For the amount of money it takes
>to get a 4bbl carb and manifold its really probably not
>worth it on a stocker.

But if you look around the auto recycling yards,
you too can get a 4bbl stocker intake for less than
I paid for mine ($85), and a rebuildable carb for less,
($30-$50).

You still have to remove the stocker, and install the
heavy castiron unit, but you'll be way ahead in the
smile per mile department...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)