Hello:

This is my second post in a week on this subject.

I have a 1995 F-150 2WD 4.9 litre automatic truck. I have been getting this error code 332 for 10 months now (way too long) and I would like to get it fixed.

I found that the problem was with the EGR valve, and I even managed to get it off the truck. However, someone last week on this forum said that these valves can be cleaned without having to be replaced. If this is so, how to I do it? I don't see any way to open this can-like contraption.

Also, I blew in it a little, trying to clean it out, and managed to ride the truck for a mile or so, but the engine light came back on. After the test, I found the problem still to be the EGR valve.

The saleswoman on the phone at Autozone said that she recommended I replace it. These things are almost 80 dollars (more than I'm willing to spend unless I have to). Again, can the EGR valve be cleaned?

Thanks!

P.S. Also, if I do replace the EGR valve, could I be wasting my money and find out there there's still another problem? That would stink if I spent 80 bucks all for nothing.

 

It can be cleaned somewhat and it is very possible if you replace it you will still have the code.

DTC 332 in Key On Engine Running (KOER) indicates the EVP sensor input did not change after the EVR solenoid was instructed by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to open the EGR valve.

Continuous Memory DTC 332 indicates the EGR valve did not open with the engine stabilized and the EVR solenoid duty cycle present sometime during vehicle operation.

In other words 332 means that the PCM ask the EGR valve to open and the EVP sensor toll the PCM that it did not.
This could be other things like:
1. the vacuum hoes has a hole in it, the green one
2. the EGR solenoid is bad
3. no vacuum to the solenoid
4. bad or not preloaded EVP sensor
5 bad wiring from the EVP to the PCM
6 bad wiring from the PCM to EGR solenoid
7 bad plugs or pins on any of the four plugs.

 

Subford beat me to it.

332: Insufficent EGR Flow detected.

There is a supply tube for the egr valve. It is possible that there is a restriction in the tube which is not allowing enough egr to flow to the valve. You can try cleaning out this tube (compressed air and a pipe cleaner works well, other people please chime in) and see if that fixes your problem.

If that does not solve your problem, then I'd be looking at the valve. As far as how to clean one, I have no idea to be honest.

 

That definition is not for a truck with an EVP sensor.
I think you need to look the code up again for a 1995 truck as that is not what it means.

 

Hello: Thanks for the information. I am going to talk to a friend about this subject to get a last opinion, but the one party before you scared me, showing a total of 7 potential problems. Anyway, the computer systems on these trucks seem to do a good job at isolating each and every problem that comes along. I have an Actron tester (the OBD 1 one) and it works perfectly with the lights, showing the errors.

I do know that the Ford computer keeps a record of the last two error codes everytime you test the truck with the truck not running. Both error codes read as 332, which indicates to me that there are no other errors going off except for that one.

Again, I would like to think that it's either the EGR valve, or a bad hose, but I'll keep you guys all posted.

Steve

P.S. What are the possibilities of this being the EVP sensor? Are they great?

 

Message deleted per request of poster.

 

They are correct with the 332 code for some cars and 1996 and some newer trucks but it is wrong for the 1995 truck.
The information that I posted is from the 1995 Shop manuals for his truck.
As I said above their explanation is for a different type of sensor system.
The information that Alldata uses is taken from Ford shop manuals and they got it wrong for this application.
The bottom line is go to the Ford shop manuals and not Alldata, Haynes or Chilton when you want the right information.

 

I had a bad EVP sensor and it threw a different code... I can't remember which one. Something about the EVP voltage being incorrect. My bet is that you've got a stuck EGR valve, but like Bill said, it could be lots of things.

 

your vacuum can has a leak in it, the ford metal tomato cans last about 10 years ,,unplug the connector and put a hose on it and a plug on the other nipple ,suck on it and see if you can pull a vacuum and hold it...bet yer can is bad....yup i told ya so..dang kids know everything nowadays code 332 low flow egr..there is no restrictor tube in the egr tube..unplug the the vacuum line at the egr put hose or vacuum tool and see if it moves and holds vacuum and holds open

 

hey guys. im bringing this thread back to life. so I have a 91 f150 4.9L and its been throwing a 332 EGR code. the "tomato can" is rusted through so im am going to replace it in hopes it will fix the code. my question is, are there any symptoms that occur when the EGR system is not working properly or is it merely for emissions? My truck seems to run great except for cold starts. whenever I start it for the first time of the day is fires up and almost immediatley dies then I start it again and it idles up good then when the idle comes back down to normal sometimes it chuggs a little like its going to stall but doesnt. also, sometimes when im driving it and i come to a stop, it hesitates a little when i start to go again. other than that it runs fine. anybody know whats causeing this?
could it have to do with the EGR system?

 

The can maybe causing all your problems.

 

sure hope so. im going to replace it tomorrow, ill post what happens\

 

Hello guys:

I am the original creator of this post from a couple years ago and thought I would add more on it. Basically, the only thing that seemed to be wrong with my truck was the error code 332 which was what caused my check engine light to go on.

I have a question though. When you take the green hose off the EGR valve, should you feel suction? My light went back on and when I took off the green nylon hose to the valve, and when I put my finger over the EGR port, I felt no suction. If that is the case, then could the EGR valve be defective? There is one large gold that is connected to a rigid pipe to the valve. The other two bolts then must be removed to get the EGR valve off. I think there is a suction problem.

Cannot wait to hear from input. Also, someone on the last thread mentioned something about the large V8-like can in the engine compartment. I don't think that is necessarily the problem though.

I also don't think the problem is the EVP sensor because when I took it off and started the truck, the error code was now 327, which states low voltage.

Steve

 

No not at idle. The only time the green hose has vacuum to open the EGR valve is when the engine is warm and at part throttle. No vacuum at idle or WOT.

The green hose is the source of the vacuum and not the EGR valve.

You either have a broken vacuum line, bad EVR solenoid or struck EGR valve.

 

Alright then, so there should be no suction on the green hose until the engine heats up? Well then, I am sure that there problem is probably either a bad, sticking valve or dirty ports under the EGR valve. Maybe I will put break cleaner in the port there the EGR valve hooks up. It could be clogged up from unburned fuel deposits. Again I don't think it's an electrical problem but I could be wrong. Statistically though -- seeing that you seem to know a lot about this and other problems -- what are the percentages of the valve itself being bad versus, say a dirty port?

Steve